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I had to replace quite a few pipes and this one here marked green seems to have a bigger area where it connects but then further up the tube it narrows quite a bit. I am unsure if i can use any new tube that fits or will i need some sort of pill in the line to make it work properly? According to this pic its called the air bypass valve pipe, its hard to see here but its connected to my cars BOV and i will take pics tomorrow and post them to make it more clear. The pipe on my car is starts with the number 701 and I will need to check the rest of the numbers.

Reading this was so funny because i made all the same mistakes the first time around

Reading this was so funny because I made all the same mistakes the first time around

I was thinking to see if I can remove the pills and refit them to new hose. I really hate all the old hose that's gone hard and useless.

To clarify I have already bought a full set of the aftermarket water hoses but not all the hoses needed are in the set but the main hoses I now need are mostly vacuum hoses and manifold hoses of various sizes so they are not the most easy to match up in size and some contain pills also. I guess I could cut the pills out and reuses them if I can find enough vacuum pipe thats the correct sizes.

I need to order some new hose for my car as many of the rubber ones in hot areas around the manifold have got hard and lost their flexibility. Where do you guys shop for parts as i have no idea where to begin. There seems to be huge difference in prices for OEM parts so I am keep to know where to get the best deal on genuine parts.

Out of interest I ended up drilling it out as it was too stuck for anything else. Got it fixed pretty quick once I did that. Just waiting on parts now to get it back together.

They did talk about making it reliable and that to add more boost would have meant the stock engine was nearing its limits and might have started bending rods. The idea from what I saw was to make it street legal and usable and reliable as an everyday drive while still being able to do an 11 second quarter. Sure a smaller engine is more fun and can also develop loads of power but generally they are more highly stressed and not as reliable without a lot of upkeep. The other issue with a smaller engine is that often you lose low down torque that's useful, for driving around a city for example, and then the power tends to come on in a big rush upper in the revs. That's fun also, but not the most practical for driving in traffic.

All good cheers anyway, it was really the actual plastic cam wheels I had the issues with, because once the timing belt is off there is no way to tighten the cam wheel bolts without the special Subaru tool that's made to lock them. with the metal one they can be locked in a few dodgy ways but the plastic ones have no real way to lock them unless you use an old timing belt to hold them. I locked mine by using the old timing belt but I think the better way would be to use a oil filter removal tool as that way I could have wrapped the rubber belt around them and then held the handle while I torqued them back up.

Its an auto grrrr. But actually I did think of a way to do it, and that's to use a oil filter removal tool the one with the rubber strap over each cam so i can undo the bolts they are normally not that tight anyway and my pulleys are plastic. For the crank pulley bolt I used my cheater bar and removed the auto inspection port rubber and then just locked the flywheel with a screwdriver and that worked quite well, plus it can be used to tighten it the same way.

Yes that's so true plus poor maintenance by previous owners hasn't helped. I will add anti-sieze for sure on these ones and if i remove the turbos or headers i will add some copper grease.

WD400 was all over it for two days before removing it. I think it needed PB blaster or something of that nature. I have bought a drill bit and bolt remover today and will remove it the good old fashioned way. Had a guts full of it breaking anyway and I will re-tap the holes later so i don't have that issue again.

One things for sure its no use guessing whats wrong you need to systematically test things and swap parts for good known working ones until you get to the bottom of the issue. Guessing just costs lots of money in parts you didn't need. Going though the items one at a time will soon get to the bottom of the issue and first port of call should be getting it tested properly to see whether or not it is actually the head gasket. There are only so many coolant pipes and area that can cause issues so you need to systematically eliminate then and then test it until you find the issue. The only real issue I can see is that some of the issues can be a bit of a pain to remedy but there are lots off good helpful people here and finding help wont be hard if you unsure how to do it. From my perspective i would always rather read and then have a go than just simply take my car to a garage and let them do it. You will learn far more and understand what makes your car tick. First time round it always a steep learning curve but after that each time it gets more simple to work on.

got the three unbroken ones out but the stupid rusted one caused lots of drama while I was trying to remove the 'metal water jacket' pipe thing. When i finally removed it I had a bit of bolt sticking out of the block so i got the vice grips onto it but being the stubborn bolt that it was it ended up braking a second time and now the only option left is going to be a drill bit and a bolt removing tool. Will let you all know how I get on.

I am having an issues with the metal pipe that carries the water from the top radiator pipe to the heads that's located under the manifold. The little cap at the rear of the one on my car is corroded and had sprung a leak. I need to remove that part but the bolts seem to have frozen themselves to the engine and I have already broken one trying to remove it. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get these undone without breaking them?

I have added the T-junctions to mine now, but have another issue to sort out before i can fully test it. The one thing to be careful of is that the top mounted intercooler runs very close to the heater hoses and if you don't take that into account when adding the t-junctions then the intercooler wont fit properly anymore. I had a few drams and needed to adjust mine a few tines to get it all to fit. I think $700 is a fair price as its a reasonable sized job and to do the heads it really requires removing the engine. But as other have already said I would never do a head gasket with out first getting the heads tested for flatness. The subaru is know for having head gasket issues mainly due to the way the head gaskets used to be produced. There is loads of info online regarding it and yes you can get a small leak and it will cause all sorts of annoying issues including overheating. The cheap fix is to use chemiweld as it will solve small headgasket issues but you need to make sure you read the instructions and make sure the cars fully up to heat before adding it. Many people will say nope don't do that as it can maybe cause other issues but a few people here have done it and had success. You would have to have a read about it and make that call yourself really. A head-gasket test usually involves doing a few things. There is a tool that fits to your filler cap and is pumped up to a preset PSI rating and it will show if you actually have a leak in your system. The second method if a leak is found is a chemical test that will show if combustion byproducts are in your coolant system and if they are then it means your head-gaskets are on their way out. The only tests that requires the plugs so come out are types of compression tests and that's really only good if the cars getting on and you suspect the rings on the pistons are tired and worn or it will help verify what cylinders are leaking back into the coolant. The good news is that these engines look to be fairly easy to remove and once out of the car working on the engine becomes quite simple. I think next time I work on mine in any major way i will just take the engine out as all the troubles i have had so far mostly stem from trying to work on the engine in the car. I do have an engine crane if you need to remove your engine and i am also based in wellington if that of any use to you.

I have bought the Ts for mine as I have a heater core issue and are going to give it a try. I will let you know how I get on and post some info on how it goes for me. It sounds ok in practice but maybe it also could disrupt the flow in the pipes because of turbulence. I think it might be better to just make a loop of pipe with no kinks and bypass it temporary to see it that works. The other issue could be the thermostat as spoken about above as some of the aftermarket ones don't open enough for our cars and the only cure for that issue is an OEM Subaru thermostat. Its never easy to get to the bottom of it when the issue is so intermittent so you really have to try and eliminate each item one at a time from a good known source of parts until you get to the bottom of the issue.

Might be worth getting a head gasket check done even though there is no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. Sometimes it can leak into a cylinder a little bit and it might not be very noticeable because it will be slowly consuming the coolant from the overflow bottle. I believe also that the heater core can be partially blocked and these cars seem to need it to flow at 100% to run well under load. You could always create a bypass for a few days and see if that helped resolve the issue. For sure its not going to be an easy one to solve from the sounds of things so best of luck with it.

Good to hear as that's exactly how I did it and I was quite worried after later reading the warning in the manual. I guess it a bit like a label on a toaster that tell you not to use it in water. Its there because if they didn't cover themselves somebody would do it for sure.

You have to be careful when the turbo starts smoking. There is always a cause behind it and nine time out of ten it because the car has not had regular oil changes or has had the wrong type of oil used in the engine. in non turbo car its important but not as important as with a turbo car because the turbo gets a hell of a lot hotter and the oil is being used to cool the turbo. When the oil get old you get a carbon buildup in the turbo bearing and they eventually get gummed up and fail. Once that happen the oil will then be able to make its way past the seal into the exhaust and sometimes also into the compressor side where it gets mostly burnt due to the heat and it will then start smoking. This will be the issue you have. The problem is that the oil that getting back into the inlet will be fouling your plugs, and also fouling the inside of your intercooler and piping. It also usually makes it way through the primary turbo and fouls that also. The new O2 sensor will also be getting ruined again because its once again being ruined by the oil in the system that should not normally be there. You can replace or have the CHRA rebuilt and balanced but make sure you also clean out the pipes and intercooler if it has oil and also check the pipes running to the turbo for carbon or oil sludge buildup because if you don't do this and just replace the turbo it will once again fail in a short space of time. If its your fist time playing with a car like this then it may seem like a big deal but really so long as you do the job properly and take you time its not as bad as it sounds. It more a matter of howe deep your pockets are and how far you want to go when you fix it. You can quickly see if the turbo is leaking oil by removing the exhaust and seeing it its all full of oil, you should also then check the CHRA and also the intercooler as they will help you determine where the real issue is. If the pipes are sludge's you should also replace then at the same time that you replace or repair the turbo and do the oil change.

Too true, but I had the car running my only concern was the sprockets when they sprang around when the belt tensioner was released. I had to manually turn them back by hand one at a time. The manual talks about only turning on one direction to avoid the inlet and outlet valves smacking into each other but I would have thought that so long as your not going a full revolution it should not be an issue. Like with mine a couple of times it flew just past the point it needs to sit at, over to the other side of the cam lobe so i had to move it back by hand slowly. My understanding is the the exhaust should be one on one cylinder and the other cylinder should have the inlet open so the small movements required to get the car back a few degrees should not matter much. A full revolution would cause the values to hit of course. Am I right in my assumptions?

I have a seen a few car vids of guys using compressed air to help unblock the core also. The trick is to work out which way the water normally flows and then connect the hose or air the opposite way to the normal flow. The idea is that it helps free the blockage more effectively this way. The other thing I have heard used is bleach and letting it sit in the core for a few hours to help desolve the crap. Mines blocked in my car also so i am going to have a go at freeing it but I think once the cores bad its going to be hard to return the flow to normal again over the long term.

it turned out to be what i expected and was the crossover coolant pipe that sites under the manifold. The one on this car was corroded and had a small hole in it. It was causing the water loss and overheating issue. Just got to check now that the headgaskets haven't been damaged by this issue.

Cheers for this advice it helped a lot and this morning I could see what you meant right away.

Got the sprocket and cams lined up to the marks on the belt today and am busy reassembling the car now. Once I used the timing belt marks it didn't take long to do and next time I could do it much faster.