Pappu1
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Posts posted by Pappu1
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my engines done 212,000kms recently had its 2nd cambelt done gets serviced every 5000kms normally before the oil goes black.
ur car dosent sound that old.. quiet healty the last time i heard it.. i guess the 5k oil change helps...not like some who thrash their subarus and put cheap oil...i know a guy like that and soon enough his car started having issues...
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i thought the GC/GF sti were the same..
only the older (pre 97) wagons had the smaller turbo
not sure if differences in turbo were in upper years
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old fuel in tank caused pinging and the ecu must have pulled things back.. thats my guess...
thats hoping no other things have gone wrong...
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parralel rails and v8 sti pump at the moment - will run about 15-16 psi on vf28
i would consider that safe..... right?
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thanks for the replies..
yea sold the 6 to my little brother.. so happy to see it stay in the family...
the 7 is my new project so doing things to it slowly.. breaks being one of them.. 8)
the wheels were to go on the 6 - yellow sti with gold mags but decided against it bro...
i guess will see everyone on track day..
hoping to get both 6 and 7 there..
altgough the 6 is very quick so i wudnt be racing it..
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dont think i wud make much pwr bro..
more reliability around a track wud be my thig then to force all the kw i can.. for now anyway...
i dont have figures but i think at 15-16 psi the 28 wud be in the region of 160-170kw@w or ther abouts..
maybe when i get my ecu retuned then will push to 17-18 psi and most likely fet 200kw - thats what my old sti did when it had the 28...
think ran like 196kw@w on 18psi ...
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...snip....
Think so far you have earned The Muppet of the Week Award
haha.. fair enough ...lol..
na just weighing up my options etc...
how much do i expect to pay for 1 hose?
doing braided as planning to attand as many track days that i can this year so might as well get some points in the breaking dept...
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i was thinking the same ..side to side bias..
but does it really matter in the rear?
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the v7 plus seats will bolt on the forrester but
1 - you will need the rails with the seats as the rails are different
2 - need to bolt your forrester seatbelt thing as the gd series is different slightly
any thing below v7 will be strait swap
another thing to note - the gd seats will sit slightly higher than the older model seats as they have diferent floor plan setup.
wont be too bad if u not too tall i guess..
other that that - swap away...
PS. the GD seats look way cooler if anything!!
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ok so i scored me some BF GoodRidge braided break lines for real good deal..
problem is, i have only 3.. dunno where i chucked the 4th one - me thinks its gone in the rubbish collections we had earlier and i accidently must have thrown it...
after i finished kicking myself for being so foolish....
i have a question -
if i fit 3 - 2 fronts and maybe rear right i suppose - will it make a difference in terms of breaks having wierd issues sine one last hose will still be rubber. i mean things like less breaking force on 1 wheel due to rubber hose - remember its on the rear ..
my options are:
1
put 3 and drive (assuming there are minimal issues) - my mechanic saya this option and i kinda agree with him
2
put only the front 2 and sell the last one so i would have fronts = braided and rears = standard - this option if having 3 has wierd breakin effects
3
purchase a 4th one so i hacve a full set to put..
in this case - who has one and how much?
thanks
PS. depending on the answer i will either post in the FS section or wanted lol.. or neither
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cannot see any blak connectors in the sar..
just the green..
unless someone chopped up the blak ones...grrr...
anyway will try the green ones and drive and see if can wipe the darn codes..
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dont know much abt cut and polish..
does it have a nitceable difference?
is there any downside to it?
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the 28 and td04 have very similar spool times with a nice TBE exhaust - not too many rpm in difference..
essentially a big bang almost the time the 04 came in play - only harder and lasts longer..
how i knoiw
done the exact some swap and my reaction was:
similar spool rate
more power at lower rpm and not running outta puff at 5g..
only ran the 28 at 15psi so well within its safety range and fair bit more headroom to go..
i say anything between 16-18 will give a fairly HARD whack of power and not run outta puff till in the 7g rpm range..
although best to upshift by 6.5-7 if on standard internals lol..when pushing it that is..
you will find the 28 really responsive and have a decent power curve for standard motors with simple bolt on mods etc..
i prefer the 28 over the 30 for street driving..
the combinations i have used so far are
td04, tdo5,tdo6 hybrid
vf23,28,24,30,22
best for street aka daily driver with a PUNCH when needed was the 28..
some other turbos will give more punch at higher rpm but then depenmds what are your preferences as to where you want your power..
personally i like a fair bit of low end with some reserve in the top end when i feel like a blat down some back road but since mostly i need to get to work on time everyday through traffic, i prefer the 28's low end and top end compromise
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sucks eggs....
dam this is bad..
will let u know if i see anything..
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got it as a standard v7 but been modding a fair bit..
not sure if willing to keep the mags of change
options are eiter white or black with polished lip
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With the green and black connectors together you only need to hit 11kmph to wipe the error codes, so do-able in a driveway and even in reverse
so just to confirm..
plug in the green and black connectors
and drive more than 11kmph
then turn off engine and take the plugs off..
right?
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cheers..will try that
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To wipe the stored codes you have to connect all four wires, not just the green ones.
what 4 wires?
do you know the colors?
i saw 2 greens as described - what other ones im to look out for
and importantly - what order and colors to be plugged?
do i just plug and ignition on or start and drive the car..
sorry for the hassle but kinda in the dark on this info
thanks'
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some time ago i saw a test of the forrester and the v9 sti
and the forrester got to 100 slightly quicker than the sti
both were standard issue units
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agree with rick - got my downpipe heat wrapped and no increase in power but the airbox is a bit cooler now. i suppose its like a mini insurance against heat failure of some of the engine bay items
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i just managed to install a HKS super grounding system - purple lol..
anyway, it makes no difference as far as i can tell but looks good in the the engine bay.
im going to keep it just for show/wow factor anyway.
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kamineko']
[quote name='kamineko said:
yep however your not going to clear your codes when a problem persists
/quote]
tru tru.. ok assuming the correct sensor was replaced with the proper unit as per subaru spec..any ideas how to clear the codes..
PS. u got my mail for the track day?
in a GC8 you connect the black and green plugs, start the car, and drive constantly untill u get an even CEL flash.
if you get another code spat back at you, the ECU still isn't happy with that sensor or whatever.
if its even flashing, its all clear, u turn off the engine and unplug. all done.
the CEL is still on darn it.. was a EGT sensor - replaced - well bolted to earth as needed
got a new dump pipe so there was no place for the egt probe so i just grounded another probe beside the pipe.
the cel is on still after that..
i will plug the 2 green plugs and drive constantly hoping it should clear - will try tonight
car is a gda version 7
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Split fuel rail mod
in Engine Related
Posted
is there an issue if the factory FPR is used instead of an adjustable one?