Pappu1
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Posts posted by Pappu1
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22 hours ago, Inked said:
Didn’t @Pappu1 run an 11 in a reflashed V7? Or I may be wrong. 10sec is awesome though dude that’s a big achievement! Anything 11 sec bracket and under is a bloody quick car !!
that was a while ago. stock vf30 and top mount with exhaust and aggressive reflash..
LOLGTR had a 10 comming from all the hard work put into it and great to see Matt planning to push it more
Go the suby!!!!!
well done boys
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just a reflash is perfect and all that feature is availble on the stock ecu
there is a 0 cost for ecu in the rev d change over to single turbo
you can do a greddy piggyback if you want to but its not going to get anythng the stock ecu cant
have tuned a few with td06 and they go pretty well
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what he said above..
done a few and they all were really easy
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On 10/5/2018 at 1:06 PM, csrgm1915 said:
So is the general consensus that an 07 GTB 6S manual tuned to 100oct with a GS TMIC, Decat DP + 3” Catback Exhaust, GS 3Port BS, Intake (maybe not necessary) and a new OEM or AM Fuel Pump can safely make 200KW+? ... Without blowing the engine up etc. I just want a fast, reliable daily and that’s the only reason I’ve considered the Golf R too as no mods will be required haha.
Im a little lost with the turbo talk sorry, would a OEM turbo do the trick or should I have to fine another?
possible ..200kw... yes
all in the tune i guess cos the mods are up to the task for this
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potentially vf45 seems to ring a bell....
9 minutes ago, Dre said:Possibly same turbo as my bl,Vf45.Running nearly 20 psi with factory tmic,car made great torque.Jumped of the mark like a stabbed rat.Combination of high compression,factory tmic,turbo turning into a hair dryer and nanny ecu,fun denied.I’d love to be able to run flex fuel on this car.
whats the deal with a nanny ecu lol
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4 minutes ago, pl0x said:
td04 twin scroll? I thought they maxed a lot lower than that
something twin scroll vfXX ..
pretty sure what the 07 gtb came with
dont know the numbers off hand..
the ecu was stock tho as we remapped that for that setup.
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was the stock turbo off a 07 gtb legacy i believe
had front mount and exhaust and boost controller
engine was a v7 207 short block with legacy heads
actually could have made more but we stopped there as owner was more than happy on that..
i reakon 230+ should have been achievable
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1 hour ago, Andy_Mac said:
Have seen multiple others behave perfectly too. It's purely because my ECU has an experimental def that never got physically checked so certain things don't work correctly.
Thought about trying the EBC route but the ease of use, functionality, and support of Link makes the swap worthwhile to me. With the costs already incurred trying to sort out this stock ECU I could probably have gone link at the start and been at the same financial point I'm at now.
It all boils down to me having a bit of a sour taste in my mouth towards the stock ECU and the lack of support that comes with it. I’ll never be truly confident the stock ECU is going to do what I want.
That's what I was thinking. Yea everything except certain outputs are still going to be attached to the stock ECU
Definitely wiring grounds to the Link, just hadn't sorted out groupings and whether certain sensors need individual grounds. Just the way some grounds are set out separately in the wiring list makes me wonder if they need to be separated.
fair call - normally one would port the ecu to another known good map and start from there... either way i suppose no point trying to save face on the stock ecu as Link seems to be the way here..
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the BL heads do make good power..
we had one running 224kw on a BL setup with some basic mods and still on subaru turbo in stock location
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i dont knoiw but might be something specific to your BL.. a few i did seemed to respond ok to what boost we aimed to ..
anyway how abt a EBC and that way no need to do the link swap?
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cheap option - cut the maf pipe out of the airbox and put a pod on the end of it and a nice alloy pipe to the join by the manifold
looks good (dependgin how well you cut it) and works fine
no need for retune in that instance ( on stock boost anyway)
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hahaha fair call
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its the same as the sti for that model process wise..
not the hardest thing but take it easy for the first time..
a good set of spark socket and a small ratchet is what i use
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yep - no cats the best for this kinda antics
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check alternator as above and throw in some additional grounding kit while you at it
hoping that solves it
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hahaha loving the way you wrote the thread
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thats a lot of km
good on u for getting there especially with a Manual..
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too rich and it does not seem to flame as much from what i have tried
but the rich mixture is good given the low timing - possibly adds a bit of softness inside the cylinder
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that is some serious fueling right there - no wonder you called it thirsty
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i find that having a cat makes it not pop while doing testing
might be the reason...
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maybe it was compensating for the clogged sensor and the new refreshed sensor was unexpected
good job for the sort out tho!
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this rewire does make a difference actually..
did a pump hard wire on a B4 legacy and the injector DC dropped a fair bit with the same AFR in place...
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nothing behind the glove box that turns up the boost - unless its a hidden boost controller setup there
from factory there is no wiring there to do any boost changes.
the pump change is just a safety measure and also means after a tune you will not be potentially running out of fuel pressure etc..
check the boost solenoid and see if its still stock and maybe peek behind the glove box in case it does have a hidden unit
for the sound - ur stuck with the twin scroll sound but with the right muffler it does sound pretty nice (i somewhat prefer it over the traditional one actually - the x-force mufflers seem pretty good but im sure there are others)
what was the result of the compression test?
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16 hours ago, revoltingasp said:
Ffs I’m an idiot I’ve got so much work to do. 😡 Im used to subies having unequal headers so idk how it slipped out of my mind (rough couple months blah blah) Got a resonator delete today and the previous owner has removed the cat which I didn’t realise until the resonator was gone so now I have a bloody 3 inch straight pipe which just rapes people’s ears. Sounds like a bloody loud honda now! been told if I remove cats I need to get a tune for the secondary 02 sensor however I’m the second owner of this Subaru and there’s no warning lights etc but he’s certain he DIDNT get a tune after removing cats. He also mentioned he turned up the boost to 20-22 psi and when I’m on the motorway in 5th at about 4k rpm and I ease my foot I can feel the boost cutting in and out so would this back up his point of “20-22psi” don’t know where to go from here I’m fully lost with what’s true and what’s not .just want my car to be a reliable and fun car to drive!! What do I do!?!???
hey man,
strictly speaking - the cat delete does NOT need a tune in this model ecu
But the higher flow it allows will be best to get a tune so you dont run into fueling issues etc
the boost may be raised due to the higher flow and thats where the issue is: it may not be fueling right for that flow since 22psi was never a stock option on that model.
Also, how did he turn the boost up? is there a boost controller in the car? maybe turn is down for now?
Confirm as per above :
no vac lines are leaking
what fuel pump you running
if you are ok to make a trip to South Auckland, then i would recommend @Subirex Automotive for any maintenance that needs to be done.
diagnostics can be done there and also tuned for the ball of mods you have
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Dyno run
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
if there are confirmed entries, i can see through and find what my local dyno place would do..
in Manukay btw