Subaru4Life

I checked the secondary relief valve, i created a vacuum and plugged the hole and it didnt seem to be leaking over about a minute. I checked for CELs earlier, but there were none, now theres two! [TABLE=width: 100%] [TR] [TD=width: 11%]45[/TD] [TD=width: 59%]Atmospheric pressure sensor/Absolute pressure change solenoid [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [TABLE=width: 100%] [TR] [TD=width: 11%]68[/TD] [TD=width: 59%]Exhaust valve duty solenoid[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

Thank you, So shove a socket in that tube and drive it to see if the secondary boosts?

The ECV is all good. I'm thinking it might be the supercharged relief valve. Any other thoughts? Thanks.

After replacing my clutch and taking my secondary out, I still have not located the issue. I've done a boost test I've taken out the secondary and there was minimal oil in it and no shaft play. Turbine wheels were mint.(this issue preceded the clutch and turbo extraction) Since there's no CEL's does that mean I can eliminate everything from the Code 66 procedure? (http://www.veloce.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/TT%20PDFs/Code-66S-TwinTurbo.pdf) The issue is, when Im on boost, my primary will go max to 12-13PSI, then once I get to 4000RPMs my boost drops right down (around 0-5 PSI ish) The secondary makes a kind of rattle/ click.(that used to be a very fast rattle) My guess is that the Oh So Lovely BBOD is the cause of my troubles. I know it's not much to go off, but I hope its enough!

It is possible to stay off boost (as my secondary isn't working so whenever I have to drive it to get looked at I don't boost at all) you just gotta baby it. I'll probably get 500kms to this tankif not a little more I think. When I first got it I drove it pretty hard (even though I think I bought it with the secondary broken) and it got 400km on a tank at least (which I don't think is terrible) But like the others said MAKE SURE THE SECONDARY WORKS. haha. if it rattles at all when the secondary boosts coming from right in front of the steering wheel and under the hood... something is wrong, and hopefully ill soon have the solution!!! The sedans are cheap because people normally want the massive wagon when they buy a legacy. If they don't want the wagon, they buy an impreza because they are faster.

Awesome! Thank you so much! I started with checking to see if there were any codes, but the check engine light just flashed slowly for the 5 minutes I sat there staring at it, Stupid thing. All good, I'm on to the wastegate! Thanks again!

Thank you for responding! No the check engine light has not come on and I am currently trying to track down someone who can lend me their code reader. After hours and hours of research I've narrowed it down to three possibilities (I think) 1) wastegate is stuck open either mechanically or because of a sensor 2) something is up with the BOV 3) the turbo is seized Any suggestions on what you might think it could be? Thank you!

Hey everyone, this should be my last thread I start for awhile! Driving around I noticed my car (1999 Legacy GTB Rev A) isn't pulling at hard as it used to, so I went out to the boonies and tested it out. To determine there's something wrong with my secondary. :'( (I've had the car for about 10 days) So what's happening is, When I try to pull hard, the primary boosts to .7-.8 bar. Then when the wastegate opens it goes to 0.6 bar, and then once the second turbo is engaged it goes to .2 bar. The secondary used to make a rattling noise when it would boost... It doesn't anymore. If anyone could let me know what the problem could be id be greatly appreciative. Im thinking it might be a something loose (because of the rattle) or is it possible that there's a pressure leak? Even with the secondary not working, is the car still drivable? Thank you!

It just seems like it will help the engine stay healthier since it will always be cooler. I'm going for reliability more so than power gains. Haha.

It would be a separate system and I would not touch the ECU. I don't know if the ECU on the 1999 REV A will auto adjust to the seemingly higher octane fuel or not. Like in modern cars... (I don't know if 1999 is "modern"). The only thing that would be connecting it to the car is a pressure switch connected to boost/vac source on engine.

Hi everyone, I've recently purchased a 1999 legacy gtb rev A, ej208, and am thinking of building a water/methanol kit for it. From what I've read the w/m injection can help keep your cylinders and pistons clean and also cools everything down A LOT. With this temperature reduction, apparently there's a gain of horse power as well. They also are supposed to prevent pre- detonation/knocking, while running on poop gas. The spray nozzle would be put into the throttle body elbow. Does anyone here have any knowledge of w/a injection on a stock EJ208 and the effects it has? Are these kits still useful on our lovely boxer engines? Hopefully (if others think its a good idea) I can install it and then others can install one because of this thread!

Sorry for the lack of clarity. The car progressively got up to its normal 0.9 bar as the engine warmed. (well, I think that's normal, (the 0.9 bar) I have only had the car for a week so I don't know what the turbos are supposed to be pushing out.)

Thank you RobMinhas. I've since bought my 1999 JDM Subaru legacy GTB Ej208. I have driven the car a little cold (let it warm up for about 1.5 min and then drove it light for 2min) just to see what happens, (air temp was around 10 degrees C) I didn't push it that hard at first, but the turbos didn't boost at all. I looked on my turbo timer and they went to 0.3 bar and that's it. So I revved a bit harder and the same thing happened. Then I waited a bit, then they went to 0.4 bar and it kept going like this until the engine was at full temperature. So my question is, is it possible to limit the turbos until they are at working temperature? because it seems like that's been done. To answer Rome1017, My key i'm fairly certain is chipped. It has the remote door locks built into the key as well. If memory serves, I read somewhere that they are chipped as well, however im not sure. I guess I won't know for sure unless I get a key cut and try it out. lol

Thanks RobMinhas! Yeah I'm west of Edmonton, and I have three gas stations within 1 km of my house and none offer 94 octane. I might have to bite the bullet and get the 94 octane I guess. Out of curiosity, How mush better mileage have you experienced? (a ballpark answer would be great!). In terms of engine parts... I read the USDM 2002 WRX has the majority of the parts needed and for the turbos, I heard Mitsubishi has a few of the parts for them.... But I know if I really have a turbo crap out on me ill have to import some parts. my importer said that i'll be able to find most of the turbo parts here, but im doubtful. Also, I know there's a warm up and cooldown period for these EJ208 engines... (if you have time to answer a few questions) 1)Can you drive the engine cold in the winter (meaning only letting it run for about 30sec-1min) as long as you don't spool the turbos? 2) Can you install a remote starter on the EJ208 engine? 3)What RPM's do the turbos spool up at? 4)What is an acceptable cooldown period as to not cause damage to the turbos? I've heard our frigid winters and turbos are terrible, but the people that i've met who has GTB;s just love 'em and don't seem to complain about repairs or warmups or cooldowns. I seem then ripping around in the icy snowy snow while i'm driving around real shook in my current (damn stupid) GM car. Thanks again for your response!

That information was straight off the Petro Canada website so I trust it. Haha Here is a comparison of two fuels with different octane with and without ethanol. [TABLE=align: left] [TR] [TH=colspan: 2]91 Grade - no ethanol [/TH] [/TR] [TR] [TD]RON[/TD] [TD]97.2[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]MON[/TD] [TD]85.6[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [TABLE] [TR] [TH=colspan: 2]Ultra 94 - with ethanol[/TH] [/TR] [TR] [TD]RON[/TD] [TD]101.5[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]MON[/TD] [TD]88[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] That's the chart they give. http://retail.petro-canada.ca/en/independent/2069.aspx Or were you saying that running 97.2 RON in an engine that was designed to be ran on the Japanese 98 or 100 octane gas? I've been trying to find out what gas the engine is supposed to be ran on exactly... like in an owners manual. Even though they have Japanese 100... that doesn't mean it was engineered specifically for it. (unless you know otherwise, haha) In extension; they have Canadian Octane 94 here, that doesn't mean all the performance cars getting pumped out of the US and elsewhere is engineered to run specifically on it... if only I could get that JDM manual. I'm in and around the mid Alberta level. About as North as Edmonton to be exact. Apparently up here the big oil companies put additives into the gas during the winter time. I plan to be using this car as my daily and will occasionally go hard off the line, but the other 98% of the time it will be driven like any other normal middle aged man. (not driven very hard) Once again, thank you VERY much for taking time out of your schedule for answering my questions!