soopersubaru
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Posts posted by soopersubaru
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WRXONP']
[quote name='WRXONP said:
uhmmm it doesnt say post a subaru engine bay ?? it says post YOUR engine bay - this is mine
and mate my car would never ever see gravel - it wouldnt know what it is - let alone drive accross it - it would belly up anyway
/quote]Waste o money......
care to explain why?
Is it able to be used on the road? or the track? or is it just for you to sit in for 400 metres?
IN MY OPINION: Drag cars are a WOFT.(only for the narsosistic) And as has been pointed out.....its not even a subaru. Despite your comment about this thread being about engine bays only................I believe the intention would be to have subaru engine bays...................Not ugly skyline stuff!
Tarmac is for pussies anyways.........Gravel is where you learn to drive!
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Yes............It is useless on the gravel. :
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Bad call on taxi V car. Good start to reasons for/against. and the 3yr new car is a way to free up the system?
It is a good way to get SOME bad examples over the over 13year age cars off the road.
Makes sense. But there will still be some cars that during their first 3yrs will get thrashed to the point where something will fall off due to use decay(Km ) as opposed to time decay(years)
Of course it will be driven by an idiot with no idea of mechanics. who will still have it on its first oil change probably. Further will not know how to open the bonnet either.
How do we pick these cars up? Ambo and a tow truck usually.
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Hey Scott...WELL done looks good...............Still WAIC for me though!
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It\'s still stupid. My Subie does less than 5000k a year and flys through every WoF. Yet I walk past a 2010 Audi Q7 near work all the time that has bald tires with huge gouges in the sidewalls yet it still has a couple of months left on its WoF. It should be KM based.
This new ruling further supports the rich by allowing them to drive around without spending $50 every 6months on their new cars.
And as above...............The true age of a vehicle is the Km travelled.
Heres an example:- A retire e and a Taxi driver both purchase a new Falcon today................In three years one will have maybe 30,000K on the clock, the taxi will have around 300,000K Yet neither are required to have been checked in the previous 3 years!............Madness!
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fkn told you once im not going to argue/discuss anything more with you
for anyone else i was going to run about 10 litres of ice in a box in the boot and circulate water . ice is free . sub ambient temps is good
yeah i know it wont last for ever but itd do a day at the drags and a fang up the hills .
Pull ya head in! I don\'t give a toss!........I will always retaliate to being attacked........Everytime!! Esp if sworn at!
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flogging a dead horse is a bit of an understatement
yo marky i have all the stuff to build a super cooler if ya wanna experiment . i was going to but was easier to put fmic pipes back on than make all the other bits fit the car
got core and heat exchanger and hose and pump and reservoir
Really?.....Why do you need a reservoir? There is only one SOOPERCOOLER. How does yours work? Flow? Internal baffles? Front radiator surface area? Temp drop across the core? Any data? At all?
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$30 for a sprayer vs $3k to get a/market ecu working and car converted to single - it barely cost me more than that to buy it outright. I appreciate what you\'re saying but this is more just something to keep me busy and if it works, can pass on to others at my end of the budget spectrum haha
Might grab one of the inlet temp gauges and find out how bad it gets in the first place and go from there - as was said, the problem is more heat soak and low speed, after a few seconds off boost over 50k the cooler gets cold to the touch already. Even if nothing else the gauge is super cheap and will give me a starting place. Hell, could combine something in series with both inlet temp and boost pressure, so it doesn\'t just spray like mad when I\'m in traffic not going anywhere.
Actually that would be cheap to do with one of the .3 bar oil pressure senders... Don\'t see why it wouldn\'t work - if x boost and inlet temp over x then degrees spray, if no boost or cooler not too hot then don\'t bother
Backyard rangimods since 2000 y0
The oil switch idea will work quite well................Using temp sensing may cause issues. Because the higher temp when sensed is too late to apply cooling.........You need to be cooler before boost is required to get the best result.
Flogging the dead horse again but here goes. TRY THIS (As some one has suggested it already) http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,18866.0.html
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As above LOL....... What more can i say?
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Back to this subject of the fan......Spray will be more effective....just drips everywhere if used when stopped on a FMIC system......Noticable improvement though as mentioned.
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possible his is up tp 50kg...This one is not. http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,18866.msg350552.html#msg350552..
It maybe 7-8 kg more than a FMIC No more.... Just remember ....Fitting a FMIC adds weight .... Unless you had a WAIC prior.....Then its about the same......Overall my system (soopercooler) may add around 5 kg to overall weight.
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lol i really love how everyone pull sout the old "water has 14 times the heat transfer of air" . lol but noone ever mentions the 5 stages of heat transfer and the fact they are all very in effiecint due to minimal temp difference across them all
need some pop corn for this thread now .
the supercooler isnt up to bother all anyway . if he achieved any less with a milion dollars of supplies and WMI then itd be laughable .
hed prolly get similar results with the tmic with WMI and saved himself 4 figures of pipes and fittings and 50 kg
WTF?....Some people just ask to be trashed...............Where do you get 50Kg from?
The idea behind my idea was to get effective turbo cooling for my 250Kw unit AND also hide it....My vehicle is a sleepa......Does not even have or need a bonnet vent......PYHI !
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FYI I just did some logging with my temporary turbo and intake temps on my FMIC were 30 degrees (10 above ambient) but didnt really move with some 4th gear pulls
Yes! they work well at speed.....My cooler stays at 6-8 above ambient.... NO im not looking to argue!
One could say they are both FMIC systems.... Just one has more mass/weight...Which is advantageous at lower speeds.....Providing higher speeds are achieved AND no boost time is allowed for recovery.
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but water works 4 times better than air at transferring heat, so if your resivour is big enough and exchanger is effecient enough it will always work well.
PRO\'s and CON\'s for any intercooler setup though.
Mr EVOWRX.....As you have asked. As above commented by STOFFA.
The reason that a WAIC performs better than a AAIC on the occasion of full boost at a standstill is:- The heatsink ability of water witihin the intercooler is greater due to its mass being more than that of a AAIC. Usually made of aluminium.
The boost duration is critical at this time!....As the speed of air increases through the AAIC cooling of its mass occurs.....If we say the following occurs (theory)
Boost is maintained for a period of 60 seconds to the point where no effective cooling is occuring as the intercooler has become heatsunk. 60 seconds is a long time to maintain boost!
If the same test is done on a WAIC boost could be maintained untill the entire system is "heatsunk". Depending on the volume. Therefore this period can be easily longer than 60 seconds due to the increased mass of the system.
Mr TURBOSMART The Yank you refer to has a 5 gallon system. Lots of weight i agree!
Have you read this though. http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,18866.msg263039.html#msg263039
This system has less mass.
There is plenty of off boost time in the ordinary road car for system recovery.
The benefit is:= During short duration high boost (take off)(overtaking) the WAIC maintains lower IAT than an AAIC would in the same situation.
Has that helped?
The FMIC is terrific at long duration hi speed boost cooling. With less weight than a WAIC system
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the fan idea will not work!...........Stupid at best!
/quote]
Have you noticed whats happened over the last few days?
I started a thread about a WAIC and proper discussion followed
You continue to bomb peoples threads with how awesome they are and everyone gets angry towards you.
Prehaps its the way your delivery thats not working.
Please stop abusing people for not liking your idea, I can see were gonna end up with another locked thread from abusive argurments.
p.s im not having a go at you, just saying
Point noted..... However as i was attacked first in this post.... I simply responded..
I Have also pointed out why this idea of a fan is ridiculous....AAIC does have issues for the stop start application. Both in TMIC and FMIC configuration due to their low heat sink ability. Either "fanned" or not.
Therefore another type of IC with a high heatsink ability is required.......This other IC has the ability to cope with stop/start...Further it does well at cruise speeds and above......Which therefore suits the road car application. (no more comment from me!)
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the fan idea will not work!...........Stupid at best!
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Nek minit Ka boom!......ded engine lol
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bother the like button guys can we have a no soopercooler allowed in this discussion button? Might help keep s*** on topic rather than deviating off into sooperlala land.
Seriously the weight involved in adding a 7" fan is the difference between pissing before you drive I say piss coz s*** would be heavier...
I have children older than you....Have some respect ....You are the chump!
That is probably why you think a WAIC system is high maintenance....The difference in weight between the two systems would also be less than 5 kg. Therefore absolutly no difference in performance due to weight.
However the increase in initail launch torque due to better cooling provided by a WAIC will give you the edge!
This is what the originator of this post is trying to achieve is it not? Better intercooler cooling at a standstill prior to launch?
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Facts are facts.............what can i say?...........LISTEN?............Its common sense!.....Use what works best for your application. Simple really...............The Yanks are onto it! Why try and make the FMIC system work better for your road car when its more suited to track work and the WAIC system works better in this application?
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If you have a close look at the sensing end of the G4 IAT sensor you will see a small bead...This is the connection that makes up this J (Jay) type thermocouple. If this bead bit is in a full air flow area heat soak issues do not apply.
I peeled the plastic off mine so that is more exposed to airflow.....Works well.....Instant responce to air temp regardless of Intake metal work temp....Ceramic coat on manifold also assists.
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Here is another WAIC that Americans are getting into.
Its about time Kiwis did it too.....Coz it works best!
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come on guys lets see ur bays
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