pl0x
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Posts posted by pl0x
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Yea mine is slightly to tall and sticks out the bottom a bit, would be covered if I have a front lip but being black you can\'t really see it anyway.
Re - behind the bumper, never really thought of it but didn\'t notice any change driving without a bumper vs with.
Boost threshold in 1st is slightly higher but other than that next to no difference.
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I got a wrx kit which had to be slightly modified to fit nicely. 600x300x76 core
Had a wrx fmic kit on my last b4 as well and needed no mods to fit. 600x230x76 core
Don\'t remember kit names sorry.
Noticed a big improvement! I\'ve shown the results here before somewhere. TMIC would reach 50+ degrees after 2-3 gears changes of boosting (then feeling like your driving a NA) and then couple of minutes to get back to normal temp. FMIC stayed around 30 degrees after boosting or sitting in traffic etc. This is single turbo and 200kw+ though
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http://www.stuff.co.nz/motoring/shows/8391572/Is-this-the-next-Subaru-WRX
Not this?
The high-riding hatchback has a plug-in hybrid powertrain with a 2.0-litre turbo diesel and single electric motor driving the front wheels while the rears are powered exclusively by independent motors in each wheel. -
you will root the inner sidewall before camber wear becomes an issue. trust me
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good height imo
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center diff off the back of the gearbox while still in the car check to check the nut, if its not it then your half way to getting the gearbox out anyway
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Could still be the nut come loose and caused some trouble for the location pins, common problem that bloody nut.. but as said above gearbox will need to come out to diagnosis anyway, At least it wont cost you another box.. make sure you use the oe grey sealant when you close it back up
+1 mine did that (as well as popping out of fifth, not being able to select R at times) and it was the nut.
One thing that helped was not using the clutch and trying to put in gear, turn car on/off while trying to pull out of gear etc
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2nd hand gaskets aren\'t all bad if there still in one peace. I\'ve reused my DP one, and many times
exhaust gasket paper and cut your own?
I would offer you my pile of old gaskets from my ST conversion but pretty sure there was not one looking like that! (and I may struggle to find them)
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I like that galant, didn\'t think they could look good at all before seeing that one
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what\'s graphite power and why not use crc, just out of interest?
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no spot lights
typical fmic fit with parts needing small mods to get them to fit nicely
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Manual?
If it was me id single turbo it, if I was in your place id chuck it on trade me...
& not sure where your getting an engine for $490... must be $1490?
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Normally yes.
You could put steel wool up the exhaust, somewhere where it would stay in place
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fmic - cruising mine is about 6-8 deg above ambient, haven't really tested with any decent lengths of boost though
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Legacy B4, single turbo vf22 @ 15psi with V5 wrx topmount, car was making about 190wkw on this tune
High temps could be due to small scoop, wrx Y pipe etc etc.
my intake temps with the factory top mount were hitting 70c+ (18c ambient) from just a 1st-4th pull. below data log:
Now with front mount in its sitting at a lot more constant temp, 34c was the highest it saw after a few pulls (16c ambient). below data log:
That was only with the small legacy scoop and only a wrx Y pipe. So your scoop would provide more airflow
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2 issues with what he did
1. Stock BOV can't vent to atmo as they work backwards or something
2. Without the bung, air enters the intake after the air flow meter (AFM/MAF assuming you miss typed maf with mav?) therefore not metering the air
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Ring who ever your going to tune it, my guess is it will cost more (than a link) to set up and tune and not end up as good/driveable.
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Sounds similar to all 3 of my subaru's with links
First one twisted & modified td05 & it would surge when part throttle with enough load and you could hear EWG kind of a "flapping" open and closing noise.
My current car and my old car - both had unmodified vf22, silicone intake, zorst & fmic. They surged coming on boost in higher gears and under load with part throttle
Questioned it and got the response that the motor can't swallow/use all the boost at that RPM, high cfm low rpm, the way to control would to play with waste gate duty at those rev's (lower boost at those rev's)
I have learnt to ignore and drive around it
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Brought this diff for my car 99 BE5, was told its out of a 99 BE5 and was 4.444.
But really the axles didn't fit right and its 4.111
Just want to chuck it back on trade me with some correct info this time.
Any idea if its LSD and what car(s) it would fit in.
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Although I'm pretty sure its placebo, I noticed the same thing in my old subaru. Maybe it was the fact of not being so loud and distracting?
Also when I just had a 3" downpipe on my current car, it seemed slower than with the full 3" exhaust
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How low is it?
Never experienced it myself, but sounds a bit like how people describe bump steer?
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RWD Strengthening Rear End
in Gearbox and Drivetrain
Posted
I\'d take the diff and axles, 1. because it\'s lsd and I\'m assuming your 250t diff isn\'t (take axles if free/cheap incase the 250t ones are different). 2. Spare diff
I\'ve had 2 rwd 200kw+ b4s. Very little drop clutches or clutch kicks etc. one was completely fine.
Other one I had passengers and slammed it into gear trying to loose traction and heard a bang. Diff started clunking and binding up after that, lasted another 5k before dying from just accelerating.
Stripped pinion wheel and snapped pinion shaft thing.
Pull the diff apart funky imo, might be able to replace one part and save the whole thing for the time being. It\'s a prick finding 2nd hand diffs to suit, other than paying wrecker prices.