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pl0x last won the day on December 22 2020

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255 ok this is getting a bit out of hand

About pl0x

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  1. I'd stick with the vf22, they're reliable. You'll be down ~20-30kw from that td06 but better power curve I'd imagine. Spray water meth pre turbo and let us know how much you can squeeze out of the vf22
  2. https://www.facebook.com/groups/140180922814491/permalink/1852308468268386/?sale_post_id=1852308468268386 Just do it 😉 But seriously, cheaper to do it right the first time than spend $1k on a Chinese turbo and tune then upgrade and tune again
  3. Plug and play is available (wrxlink v1-v2 is the same) and not that expensive for a new ecu. But they do come up sometimes second hand cheaper. I've got a base map to suit a bf5 g4+ if needed. Could probably re pin or make an adapter but doesn't seem worth the effort. Never played with possum links myself. Had one in my first Subaru and it run fine with the throttle down but was missing little things which would annoy me if it was a daily (unsure if it was tune or ecu capability but I suspect the later). A tuner told me it was more expensive to tune the possumlink becau
  4. I suspect Subaru's are a lot less susceptible to chucking oil everywhere than some other makes if you leave the cap off. As per what Loren said, 5mm overfull is nothing to worry about. I overfill mine 500ml ish on purpose. Oil pressure light on while running is very concerning
  5. My car with 1650cc xspurt top feed injectors has the odd splutter down low. Idle seems fine, it's more taking off <2000rpm. Assume it's in injector data or they are just to big.
  6. I thought NZ new STI was 2.5L UEL up to and including hawkeye (my hawkeye was that spec <-) and JDM STI 2.0L were EL from V8/blob onwards.
  7. Sard 850cc injectors are an option. Nothing decent above that size that I was aware of (before switching to top feed). I've got them sitting here in rails if you are interested in them, think I was trying for $500 on trademe, would go less on here
  8. Drilled into the WAIC? similar location to where everyone installs them in normal top mount?
  9. Just checking if anyone here has an IAT sensor that is using a water to air top mount intercooler, if so where is it located?
  10. Just be wary of what compression ratio you end up at. Factory ECU is only "good" for the factory compression ratio.
  11. I'd add cam cover seals, cam seals, intake gaskets, new thermostat, spark plugs & head bolts to that list. But if you're doing all that stuff, I'd do a good job and get the deck/block done because if it's out of spec who knows if it'll seal. Unsure if short block needs to be pulled down for that or not - talk to your machining shop. If you're not doing block i'd maybe check the belt and water pump & if OK just leave everything except seals. We did a cheap head gasket fix where we got heads done & just new seals - head gasket, cam cover and cam seals. Ev
  12. For diagnosis pull the waste gate hose off, clamp it. Go for a drive and floor it, keep an eye on the boost gauge, note what rpm it hits 14psi and let off the gas. If it's still "laggy" and at 5k then it's likely a mechanical fault (turbo, exhaust leak, boost leak etc.). No form of boost control will fix those issues. If it comes on boost earlier then fault is likely within the boost control system or ecu. If it's this, fix the fault rather than patch it by adding boost control.
  13. Mount/flange is the same but pickup different to suit the twin scroll sump. Mines a closed deck block (phase 1) with twin scroll sump, pick up etc. Partners bg5 also has twin scroll sump set up on original engine.
  14. Yes sump fits, need oil pick up, wind age tray & dipstick from the twin scroll sump as well.
  15. I always go Bendix Ultimate if i can. I can deal with the dust for the cold and hot braking performance. EBC green in one car and better than a repco brand pad but nosier
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