pl0x

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pl0x last won the day on April 8

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250 ok this is getting a bit out of hand

About pl0x

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  1. Drilled into the WAIC? similar location to where everyone installs them in normal top mount?
  2. Just checking if anyone here has an IAT sensor that is using a water to air top mount intercooler, if so where is it located?
  3. Just be wary of what compression ratio you end up at. Factory ECU is only "good" for the factory compression ratio.
  4. I'd add cam cover seals, cam seals, intake gaskets, new thermostat, spark plugs & head bolts to that list. But if you're doing all that stuff, I'd do a good job and get the deck/block done because if it's out of spec who knows if it'll seal. Unsure if short block needs to be pulled down for that or not - talk to your machining shop. If you're not doing block i'd maybe check the belt and water pump & if OK just leave everything except seals. We did a cheap head gasket fix where we got heads done & just new seals - head gasket, cam cover and cam seals. Everything else looked OK. Lucked out and it doesn't overheat now. Who know's how long it'll last but friend wanted cheap.
  5. For diagnosis pull the waste gate hose off, clamp it. Go for a drive and floor it, keep an eye on the boost gauge, note what rpm it hits 14psi and let off the gas. If it's still "laggy" and at 5k then it's likely a mechanical fault (turbo, exhaust leak, boost leak etc.). No form of boost control will fix those issues. If it comes on boost earlier then fault is likely within the boost control system or ecu. If it's this, fix the fault rather than patch it by adding boost control.
  6. Mount/flange is the same but pickup different to suit the twin scroll sump. Mines a closed deck block (phase 1) with twin scroll sump, pick up etc. Partners bg5 also has twin scroll sump set up on original engine.
  7. Yes sump fits, need oil pick up, wind age tray & dipstick from the twin scroll sump as well.
  8. I always go Bendix Ultimate if i can. I can deal with the dust for the cold and hot braking performance. EBC green in one car and better than a repco brand pad but nosier
  9. Yea i'm not sure if the bf5 issue was the wrong newer style linkage that was used or if the gc8 shifter is actually different. I've never had an issue swapping 5sp boxes (when using the chassis's same shifter/linkage) between models or phases, so assume all 5sp boxes are the same and shouldn't matter what gearbox is in there. In one of my old be5's I had both phase 1 and 2 gearbox in there at some point with no shifter issues.
  10. I'm fairly sure all 5 sp's have the same "shifter shaft" with a vertical hole for the roll pins. From there back I'm unsure what combo works with what. I do know BP/BL legacy 6sp shifter/linkage combo do not work with GBA (all bolt up but you can't get into certain gears) I also know I tried a gc8 shifter in a bf5 and it couldn't get into 2nd, 4th or reverse). Unsure what linkage was used.
  11. Think the RB guys are more versed in it but you may need a bend, a decent distance or a "air straightener" to stop the turbo effecting the afm at idle
  12. If the car has IAT and MAF issues, wouldn't it be sensible to start there and test a known working MAF? I'd ensure the MAF is OK before going anywhere near a dyno.
  13. Possibly shielding wire, but most shielding I've seen is around the sensor wire. CAS is something that would need shielding. Unsure if factory or not, but those crimps are used in factory looms. Being unused could make sense for a shield (grounded at the ecu).
  14. I wouldn't be doing full pulls then checking knock (refer boon's scenario), rather progressively rev higher and under more load checking knock during/in between. I think the factory knock sensor is ok.
  15. Check that RON assumption before running (our 98 is USA ~93 & I doubt they'd do a performance tuned map on less than their best fuel) Take it to a tuner before driving hard or get a wide band, build some budget knock ears & watch a few videos on AFR and knock sounds to know enough that it's not running lean and knocking.