pl0x
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Posts posted by pl0x
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11 hours ago, mitch8198 said:
forcefed made 412kw with an EZ30r on 98 at only 20psi with what seemed like a very mild build for the power. (just pistons, rods, valve springs, retainers, injectors, Link G4). So they're definately a capable unit, the supertech parts are expensive, but so is a 400+kw capable EJ engine....
I wouldn't call it a mild build (anymore at least).
They seem to have head gasket issues when at that power level, heads gaskets just aren't up to it or maybe it's an ethanol thing. pm if you want more info but i'd suggest looking into turbo ez30 builds more before committing.
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My old be5 use to make a clunk on lift off but was after every shift under power, was rear diff bushes (pretty common on the be/bh I believe, and pretty sure its the same design as bp/bl).
Other thing I was thinking was binding center diff or cv's but you'd think that would only happen around corners.
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Its factory bolt in turbo so headers etc it will be fine.
I'm not 100% on a air flow metered cars once tuned but I'd say it's not ideal without a tune & safer to get it tuned. Also you won't get the benefit of the slightly bigger turbo without a tune so may as well get the standard replacement?
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I've made a gc8 kit fit a be5, to long ago to be sure exactly what modifications it needed but I think it was a few more joiners.
If it's not already sorted - ITL are good cores and pretty cheap, here's one size that possibly would fit.
http://www.intercooler.co.nz/fmic-550x230x65-2-5/
Note the size's you are looking at will likely become a restriction at some point, but not on a factory turbo.
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Personally I'd get a second hand twin scroll td04 as they don't seem to have the same issues.
Or you can get a bolt on aftermarket type, something like (I've got no clue if this is the correct one to bolt on, but looks about right): https://shop.mambatek.com/GTX-Turbo-235-TD04HL-20T-w-85cm-Twin-Scroll-9-Blade-001-0568.htm?categoryId=-1
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ez30r / 2nd gen
1st gen shouldn't even be considered a ez30
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A mate has done it recently into a bc5, took him a month or two but knows what he is doing and has the tools.
Made a radiator top joiner/cross over pipe so he could use a factory rad, seems to be working.
Link g4 extreme, wired using factory engine loom and link a/b looms
Falcon throttle body (bolt on i think), unsure on what throttle cable he used.
Still not cheap.
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What front and center diffs are you running? How much power?
Mates 400kw GD has been running fairly contestant 11.6's but traction is letting him down 1st/2nd (average tires admittedly)
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I've got a vf27 (secondary) on trademe for $60 can have cheaper on here if wanted to try do the swap
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I see there are vf38, 44 & 45. I thought there were only vf38 & td04 (and that td04 was the biggest).
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td04 twin scroll? I thought they maxed a lot lower than that
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2 hours ago, Pappu1 said:
the BL heads do make good power..
we had one running 224kw on a BL setup with some basic mods and still on subaru turbo in stock location
what turbo?
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Ahh I see, I'm not/wasn't aware of any requirement to group or wire sensors grounds individually, but probably just check with Tony and co. What wiring list is it?
I could have lucked it both times I've wired my cars, the fury had 4 ground outs so I just randomly grouped sensors into them.
Edit: Looks like no issues grouping: http://forums.linkecu.com/topic/5655-sensor-grounds-and-5-volt-splicing/
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10 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:
Going through it all I can't see any reason to need to wire shields to the Link and will keep them going to the stock ECU which will save a decent amount of wiring.
Unless someone can think of a reason why that would not be the way to do it?
Grounds and sensor grounds and whatnot are another one i’m not fully sure on yet but may come up with an idea for them still
From memory, assuming the factory ecu still has ground then yea you shouldn't need to rewire the shields.
I would have thought you will need to wire the sensor grounds to the link, but shouldn't be much different from cutting and joining any of the other wires?
And you could just tap the link ground into the factory ecu ground wire, maybe add an extra ground point near the ecu's somewhere, I can't see any issues with them sharing grounds.
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1 hour ago, ginganinja said:
Awesome. Thats good to know.so this is additional to the factory wiring?
It generally uses the factory wiring as a relay switch (turns the direct power wire on/off)
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6 minutes ago, ginganinja said:
Out of interest what is the wiring mod?
Basically that ^^. Pretty much a slightly larger power cable direct from the battery with a relay, Means the pump gets full voltage.
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11 hours ago, runrabbit said:
Walbro fuel pump replaced oem.
What's the wiring? factory wiring has voltage drop before the pump.
A friend only made 200kw ish with Walbro on factory wiring, it was running out of fuel pump. With the wiring mod it made 230kw
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5 hours ago, brucestubbs said:
Okay just to clarify, I'm looking for injectors that will be able to safely go above and beyond my power goals, and have plenty of headroom for the future.
Cheers
De cap your yellows
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10 hours ago, runrabbit said:
FYI - I have yellows, and vf22 and only make 200kw. Injectors are at 95% duty and tuner doesn't recommend going any higher. Would love to find a another 20kw if possible.
Sounds like something is wrong. Whats your fuel pump and how is it wired?
Factory fuel pump and/or factory wiring won't cut it.
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Factory subaru STI injectors (yellow side feeds) will do 220kw. Make sure you have a decent fuel pump and good voltage at the pump and they'll be fine.
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33 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:
What's the Denso part number on your one?
Main issue is needing to get ECU’s coded to the immobilizer and all that which isn't all that cheap either
I'll have a look tonight
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Any way to tell from the ecu if it is facelift or not? I've got a bp ecu at home that is of no use to me.
Edit: if you did wanted to try another, I've got no clue about unlocking or flashing etc and how hard it would be to copy the tune over.
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Factory oil pressure switch isn't good enough imo, once its on its too late.
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Could try plumb the breather lines to somewhere visible, obviously block off the intake side. See if it's breathing heavily under load.
If it was a coolant issue, "normally" once it's hot enough to start causing an issue it doesn't cool without switching the car off
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What have you done to your car today?
in General Vehicle Discussion
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Nice! Any reason you got the non wastegated turbine housing?
Your car is 2.0L correct?