pl0x
-
Posts
3,131 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
10
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Store
Posts posted by pl0x
-
-
Ive got one the same in my car, when i wind the boost tap down, it goes up and vise verser lol
-
Anyone swaped all seats? like including rears? i was wondering if they would bolt in?
-
agreed the differance between 6k & 10k is alot
i like the white one and you could prolly get them down even more, get in contact with them and ask for me more details
but yea you need to see service records, make sure good oil has been used and every 5000ks
the blue one has afew more "mods" which could indecate its been thrashed etc, then again it could not
-
Also i know
3&4 cant be decapped
but v5&6 can
not sure about v7+
-
Mhm i wouldn't buy the first one because of the highish kms, but you never know it coulda been well looked after during its life,
i like the 2nd more to be honest
-
i want pictures!!
-
-
Mines a undien or whatever quite old but was cheap so if it even saves me once ill be happy, but ive driven past cops & camera vans with no beep at all lol
thats with everything turn on
-
-
Yep something with a rebuild and proof would be the way to go id say
servicing is a must, good oil!
-
lol im glad you guys have got it done and now i knw what ta do lol
-
Lol ive gota radar but dont really know what bands to pay attention to,
Anyone could clafiy what bands are what?
-
Mhm yea ive heard never drill rotors and if you can not slot them either then that helps life.
i only wanted slotted for the look lol but not worth the wear
-
lol chop 3rd and you will be away?
-
You can pick up pretty cheap rotors at repco - got mine for $76.00 each but the only thing where that they were not slotted so if you want slotted which are better quality you'll pay a bit more. 8)
/quote]+1 on ripco bought them though i mate who works there for $40 pair just going to get them slotted and drilled also by i friend for $20 a corner i'll post up a picture when i get them back.
Also found out my brake rotors had already been skimmed hence warping quicker with a noob at the brakes
Dont they turn shit if you slot and drill them yourself?
i was thinking about getting mine slotted but got told not to?
-
ive never seen a legacy with just lowering springs that LOW, mine has tein lowering springs and its not as high but not low enough for me... i got some V7 shock & springs ta put in and will be flicking off my tein springs
-
Ive heard after putting lowering springs that it f's up your shocks but ive never seen proof etc
-
I think mine should be about 200kw atw (yet to be dynod), got tdo5 & yellows, link, 3" turbo back, front mount, fuel pump, forgeys, compression of 8.5-1
wastegate normally holds boost at 19 then drops off to 16, but i put a boost tap in and running about 15psi
-
-
mint this exact thing happened to me today putting my four pots on my legacy, after ages of trying to get them to bleed and even bleeding all four we gave up. thing is I put my old two pots back on, bled it again and its all good. so we tryed the four pots again and wouldnt work, even tryed two other sets of four pots in case mine were stuffed and still a no go. so im back to my two pots and very frustrated!!
Aye wdf? i mite wait till to put mine on, till you guys have got them sorted lol
Anyone done one and had them working?
would it be something to do with brake booster?
-
and you wonder why it glows red hot..... wat a dork. your trying to re invent the wheel... subaru spent millions reserching this for reliability... your glowing turbo wont be doing shit for intake temps or the oil thats sitting in there....
Ive gota say i dont like the idea of my turbo glowing lol
mite still be good at 5000kms but thats not really alot
-
Most suspesion will fit if you swap rear top hats
ie all gc8 shocks with swaped top hats will fit,
wrx/sti susepesion will be lower than bd5 even with standard springs
Im yet to get my v7 shocks with lowering springs into mine but hopefully wll be low as and stiffer than my blistens
shock i know of that wont swap over even with top hats are:
V8? bugeye? (and upwards)
b4 legacy - whatever model that is (and upwards)
im unsure of what forester shocks swap etc they mite have different rear top hats again?
-
i went frontmount on my v3 engine bout a year ago, heres my opinion only. performance wise i didnt get that much more lag over over topmount , turbo kicked in 400rpm later with the piping like zarnahs pic. powerwise i did noticed a small gain but mainly no heatsoak like the topmount. I then flipped manifold and the turbo and theres little to no lag difference in when the turbo enguages than over the topmount. i do agree frontmounts are not needed on the adverage subie but i do reckon its worth it and im liking how simplifyed the engine can become once the topmount is removed and things start getting flipped
+1 much more space now, can run catch cans , oil cooler under the scoop etc
-
Currently im sanding & priming my bumper
last bumper i did a used spray cans which was alright but you could tell it was home done
ive got access to a compresser & spray gun and was thinking buying paint etc for it
or just take it into a shop to get it done
how much would each of these cost??
-
Who's Online 0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 221 Guests (See full list)
- There are no registered users currently online
boost control
in Engine Related
Posted
What i did with mine was had the tee peice installed between the turbo and wastegate with the arrow toward the wastegate
then ran the out line (of the tee piece) to the boost tap to the arrow going inwards
but as i said it controls it but backwards to what the +\- on the tap show... fine by me...
only problem (which i would watch out for) was on install we round it right closed (which was open) and free boosted till boost cut lol