guiltysky
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Posts posted by guiltysky
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@walshmaine, check this thread. Refer to my post midpage from last year on page 7
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18 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:
Na those are just the standard STI ones, they'll be after these ones.
They're pretty rare though.
I have them in my car. They came in Spec R and Spec C GRB STI. I've seen them in NZ new ones optioned in too. Rare but not impossible to come by
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Looking to get my OEM BBS wheels powder coated. Car is V11 STI Dark Grey as per photo:
Shortlisted down to these picks. Which one should I go for?
http://www.prismaticpowders.com/colors/PMB-2808/ANODIZED-BRONZE-II/
http://www.prismaticpowders.com/colors/PMB-2106/STONE-BRONZE/
http://www.prismaticpowders.com/colors/UMB-492/US-BURNT-BRONZE/
http://www.projectoak.com/automotive/m5-passion/shadow-chrome-wheels/
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EZ Lips look when first fitted but over time the tape holding it on wears and it starts falling apart, especially if your car is lowered and/or you catch onto things and scrapes happen. One would last typically a few months to a year maybe at most, then you gotta rip it off and it leaves your bumper looking like arse.
Personally wouldn't recommend it. tried it on several cars
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This guy doesn’t do detailing full time but he’s lightyears more qualified than the people who do it for a living.
I use him exclusively for my own cars, family members’ and friends
https://www.facebook.com/illustriousdetailing/
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I’m with Swann- which is owned by IAG.
I pay less than $800 per year full cover annual premium for the following cover type.
V11 STI Spec R(Modern classic)
Supra RZ (Classic)
Civic with Type R running gear (Classic)
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how does community standing work?
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This thread should be changed from Average TQP Tune to DISTASTROUS Torque Performance Tune.
This car was tuned in 2014 as per below at approx 91,000km.
The owner was a chef and basically took the car in regularly for servicing and paid whatever bill Torque wrote up for him.
He worked, lived and parked in CBD and drove the car on mostly on long trips to visit family.
At the time it had a downpipe from Subtech+K&N intake system. Everything else was stock
I purchased the car in May this year. 105,000km
Did the necessary general servicing, made sure all fluids were changed and fresh and to the right levels.
Took it to a controlled testing day at Pukekohe. At this point, I had only driven the car for less than 200km all up.
Did 3-4 warm up laps and on the 5th lap, engine seized abruptly. Turns out the bottom end bearing was gone and the pistons were melted, stuck together.
Damage to cam gears as well.
My mechanic got a brand new OEM shortblock kit from Winger, fitted to originally head after a lot of cleaning and machining with new cam gears and cambelt done, along with clutch. Took my time and wore in the engine and clutch over next 1000+ km, using 2 changes of run in oil before switching to full synth.
We fitted a boost gauge and notice boost spikes all over the show.
Fitted a new stainless 3” midpipe and a DW65 then went for the tune last night- aiming for max reliability and useable torque instead of chasing any power figures.
The tuner found that the maps by Torque Performance were badly written. There were things that shouldn’t have been fiddled with.
The boost cut was non-existent at 3bar… and the car was knocking bad.
The red shows base run (on Torque Performance Tune) and the other line shows the result of hours of unf***king TQP’s mess.
The 2014 tune was completely messed up, as it took the tuner 2 hours to undo all the changes that Torque Performance had made, prior to carrying out the ACTUAL tune which yielded another 103nm at 3000rpm as per dyno sheets.
The 2014 tune that was in the ECU was extremely unsafe to the point that the 2016 tuner was unable to keep his foot pinned down for a dyno run; due to excessive knock and the 'self learning' capabilities of the stock Subaru ECU.
There was 22 degrees of timing in peak torque + the amount of timing added via Subaru's knock correction table.
So the car was running anywhere between 22deg-30deg in boost.
WAIT HOLD ON. MY CAR ISN'T ON E85! It’s on BP98!!!!!
New tune has had more than 40-50% timing removed
We suspect that the previously tune was highly causative or contributory towards the catastrophic failure of the original motor at only 105000km, despite a full NZ service history with Torque Performance over a 2-3 year period of which I retained a stack of receipts from the previous owner.
I am collating information and relevant documents and will be confronting TQP at some stage in the near future for an explanation.
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^ wow were the NZ new ones actually single scroll? Didn't know that.
What do you mean by boat anchors? First I've heard that term for wheels. I've both types of wheels and refer to them as Cast fat fives and forged BBS
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Bridgestone doing buy 1 get 1 half price until end of month. In most cases this works out a better deal than their buy 3 get 1 free.
Depending on how much u like your car and how long you want to keep it for, I would get a decent set of RE003 and just sell the used ones.
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Does anyone know the flow rate of the OEM fuel pump in a 2008 STI?
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Where did u get the Fuji catback?
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I use Penrite Progear full synth 75w-90 in pretty much all jdm cars in the family, for eg. my V11 and my old V7 sti
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^ Yeah I sold my first V11 because I bought a Spec R with all the nice bits I was after originally (recaros, wheels etc).
My mates reckon the extra grip from the semi slicks was a major factor.
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Sorry if this is bumping up an old thread but I feel this is seems relevant to what happened to me last Saturday and would be good for all other GRB owners to be aware of.
My car : 2008 GRB STI (JDM) – approx. 105,000km. Cambelt just done.
Full service history with Torque Performance from previous owner. Overall good condition.
Car is basically stock.
I chucked on brand new factory size Nitto NT05.
Serviced the car, did all brakes and diff/gbox fluids (Engine oil was Penrite Ten Tenths 5w30)
Went to casual open day at Pukekohe, did 4 laps (2 warm up) then BOOM, big end bearings gone.
Got car towed back to Auckland. Looking at full rebuild or new engine and doing clutch while we’re at it.
I guess we’ll find out when everything is apart to see if piston rings and carbon were a contributing factor and the few laps on track pushed it over the line.
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Sorry to thread jack but I couldn’t get one from Repco for my 2008 GRB STI hatch because apparently they didn’t stock them for cars 2008 or newer (wtf right?).
Anyone know where I can get one? Found them on ebay for very cheap but can’t be bother waiting.
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So, got a JDM 2.0 V11 hatch.
What are my options for turboback and catback apart from the XFORCE kit on Trademe from Redline?
Anything else available locally that's decent value for money?
Not chasing power figures or anything. Just want a more sporty tone and better response since I'm used to a 3" Buddyclub catback from my old V7 but nothing too extreme. Family car, keeping it stock standard, may consider an ECU remap.
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Missed out on that fresh import white 2010 V11 STI sedan last week......
I'll roll with my V7 for now and wait for a decent facelift V11 sedan to pop up then.....
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Yeah I've had several honda type r and k20 so that low down torque from 2.5 will be cool to have.
I don't plan on doing any mods or chasing any power figures, not with this at least
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So looking at the prospect of purchasing a V11 STi.
Everyone is out to get a bargain or the best possible deal for themselves and clearly the NZ 2.5L are slightly cheaper than a JDM 2.0 equivalent.
I've read all the online comparisons between USDM and JDM and understand that the 2.0 is a stronger motor overall for mods etc. and am aware of the obvious extras the JDM ones come with such as Recaros.
The trust is, I just really want for daily drive and the occasional casual playday at the track. It will be a family car and will be buying a manual one.
I don't plan on doing any major mods- just keeping it stock but chucking on good tyres, pads and maybe new rotors if needed.
The most I would do is a turboback or catback exhaust and maybe a remap/tune.
With that in mind, in the context of NZ, what are the pros and cons of purchasing a 2.0 vs a 2.5 given my needs?
Is the 2.5 really as bad as they are made out to be?
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There are only two words to describe workmanship by Onshow Kustoms. CHEAP & NASTY
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What do you use the car for?
If you're not tracking it, anything DOT4 should be fine. Repco brand generic fluid will be totally sufficient.
Last time I bled mine I used Castrol DOT4.
More or less just a weekend cruiser. Some long trips. Very occasional casual 5-10laps on Puke possibly.
I used Castrol DOT 4 in my Civic Type R which I tracked quite often.
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Hey guys, I’m looking to do a brake fluid bleed/flush on my V7 STi. It has the stock brembos.
I noticed the reservoir cap says DOT 3 only and I’ve found it very hard to source any DOT 3 fluid.
My brake&disc guy advised that I could ‘upgrade’ to DOT 4 despite what it says on the cap but you can’t go down from DOT 4 to 3.
DOT 4 is pretty easy to source and I tend to use Castrol React or the motul stuff for other cars I’ve had.
What do you guys use and is it perfectly fine for me to bleed and replace with DOT 4?
Cheers.
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Exhaust options for SG9?
in Forester
Posted
Hey guys, looking to pick up an SG9 STI soon.
Anyone know where I can find a decent catback system for it?
Owned several Impreza STI of various ages and they were relatively easier to source.
Can't seem to find anything on the market to suit an SG9 as a bolt on solution?