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mitch8198

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Posts posted by mitch8198

  1. Have sourced a v7 sti 6 speed gearbox, cross member and clutch fork as an upgrade for my 96 wrx. Going to use the 5sp clutch, starter and flywheel. (box syncros are gone and its leaky)

    Trying to find a 3.9 r160 rear diff to replace the 4.44 version which is in the car.

     

    The seller has a 3.9 plate-type LSD from a gen4 legacy H6. Is the spline compatible with my existing axles?

    Anyone know any other compatible 3.9 LSD r160's? (preferably mechanical without going to an expensive v2 sti RA diff)

     

    Cheers

  2. Yep cam profiles will be different and 205 probably has higher compression but it would run.

    Definitely not perfect and would recommend not using the V3 STi 6S ecu because timing, boost and rpm limits would likely be too aggressive for the poor old wrx engine.

     

    So the answer really depends on how dogey you want to be.

    I used to race my wrx using a 97 forester ecu (normally a td04 & grey injectors) running a 93 RA engine, yellow injectors and a VF30 and it worked fine but that's a bit risky for most people :/

    • Like 1
  3. kind of;

    AFAIK the only external differences between Phase1 (ej20k) and Phase2 (ej205) the crank & cam trigger patterns and the intake manifold bolt pattern.

    1. Take the toothed cambelt pulley's from the crank and top LH cam on your old EJ20k, this will fool the V3 ecu into thinking it's running the older engine.

    2. Use as many sensors from the old manifold as possible on the new one. Unsure whether the throttle position sensor or idle control valve are cross-compatible due to the different throttle design on the newer engines. 

     

    Could also just swap the shortblock (if you've spun a bearing), use all your old sensors and happy days.

     

     

    • Like 1
  4. On 29/11/2018 at 10:52 AM, pl0x said:

    I wouldn't call it a mild build (anymore at least).

     

    only able to go off what i've seen online which is quite a few years old now. The workmanship is amazing, just was surprised the ez30 seemed to take the insane power with stock cams, stock sleeves and no porting at the time, all of which are usually considered when building an EJ for that sort of power.

     

    PM sent :) 

     

  5. Been considering this also (with turbo) and doing a load of research for my GF8 before i commit to forging the 2L RA block that is in it. Parents have had an H6 legacy for years and its still going after 350,000kms of abuse.

    forcefed made 412kw with an EZ30r on 98 at only 20psi with what seemed like a very mild build for the power. (just pistons, rods, valve springs, retainers, injectors, Link G4). So they're definately a capable unit, the supertech parts are expensive, but so is a 400+kw capable EJ engine....

     

    Took the idea a step further today and picked up a blown EZ30r for "research purposes". Would be doing the manifolds, wiring, engine build etc myself so want to know exactly what im getting into.

     

    xjuGJqr.jpg?1

    • Like 5
  6. 9 hours ago, iludez said:

    My god this thing is quick! Holy smokes it pulls so well, the difference compared to my be is massive

     

    Such nice cars! I picked a BP5 spec B up as a daily and yeah had the same reaction, so much instant twinscroll torque. At normal speeds it feels so much faster than my 180wkw wrx. The thing handles well, tows stuff, cruises effortlessly, has heated seats, 10 speaker audio and gets ~9L/100km. Not much to complain about!

     

    YwwSdyP.jpg?1

    • Like 2
  7. 3 hours ago, GC8E2DD said:

    Hrm, so BP side feeds are actually a better option than decapped P2 yellows? Can't remember what people have tested decaps at, but I'm guessing you'd get a better spray pattern with the Legacy injectors?

     

    I dont know if its actually a better option haha, adaptors just seemed the easiest at the time. Ive heard you can mix and match P2 yellows and fuel rails and somehow bolt them on a P1 mani but these are a cheaper unit, better spray pattern and 5+ years newer. I assume 04+ STi ej25 sidefeeds would work also.

  8. 15 minutes ago, blitzd808 said:

    That'd be a great little piece of kit to sell to some of the fellas stuck with V3-4 manifolds for sure.

     

    Thanks, happy to supply the CAD files to anyone that want to make a set :)

    Having V1-4 heads really limits your options for cheap injectors above 440cc. Diddint want to spend 1k+ for a topfeed conversion or get dogey knock-offs.

  9. sounds like an awesome car, will be a weapon when done :) 

    The Link G4+ ecu will be hands down the best upgrade for your car, with a good tune youll get better fuel economy, idle control, cold start, more stable boost control etc etc. 

     

    You wont be able to make much more than 190kw on the stock 440cc injectors, I've gone to set 565cc sidefeeds out of a BP legacy (cost me $30 lol) which should give a you bit more headroom or decap. Fuel pump is recommended for safety but not essential, get a Walbro 255, theyre cheapish and work really well. 

    The VF28 turbo will be turning into a hairdryer above 200kw so as others said youll need a bigger top mount or a front mount to keep the air cool enough. You probably make 210kw+ on stock turbo & internal wastegate but a quality 38mm one will keep the boost stable. Stock bov is fine.

     

    With the stock motor and turbo I wouldnt go much over 220wkw so youre not stressing either part too much. then if desired in the future, forge the motor, get a big turbo and go for 280+.

    • Like 2
  10. Hey mate, look at page WI-68 (wrx) or WI-79(n/a) of the service manual I PM'd you the other day. that gives you the pinout of the speed sensor and how to connect it to the cluster. WI-69 shows the pinout and connections of the inhibitor switch and starter interlock. 

    I've historically left the auto ecu in and just jumped the TCU to park at the trans end of the connectors, not sure how well it works in the newer cars.

  11. the fronts are the same in the 1st gen imprezas so id assume its the same for bugeye's aswell. The rear axles sometimes need different inner splines depending on which type of LSD rear diff you get. 

    Ive done a couple auto->manual conversions, fairly straightforward, remember to jump the trans plugs so it's hotwired to park and leave the auto computer plugged in so your ABS will work.

  12.  

    21 minutes ago, Subru said:

    15psi is pretty low for the VF30, Sti's take 18psi stock. I assume its a non sti right?

    15psi at 4600 is pretty laggy. After the tune I get 15psi at 3700rpm and keeps going up slowly till 22.6psi.

     

    pretty much (93 ra engine with 440cc injectors maxed out) but yes its very lazy atm, just saying that you're not the only one having spool issues on a vf30.....

     

    Mine could also be due to the tuner having to do the top end from only ~4 power runs as the viscous centre started to disagree with his dyno (front/back axle speeds were all over the place). Credit to Keith Stewart though, car drives amazing and afr's are spot on even with sub-optimal tuning conditions.

     

    • Like 2
  13. On 14/04/2018 at 10:49 AM, Subru said:

    Model:  V7 Sti

    Displacement: 2L

    Mods: 3 inch catless dp, 2.75 catback, 3 port, fuel pump, tune

    Fuel: BP 98 

    Tuner/dyno: Chris@ Prestige Tuning, Dynapack

    190wkw 364nm 

     

    On 13/04/2018 at 11:33 PM, boon said:

     

    EDIT: Unlesssss your VF30 has a huge crack in the wastegate port that's leaking a whole lot of gas past the turbine. All VF30s crack there, many just have a hairline while others end up with the grand canyon. Worth a look.

     

     

    @Subru I have very similar mods and my vf30 also spools late (full boost 15psi@4600). The infamous crack doesnt seem to be too bad in mine but can't work out what is up with it.

     

    So far my thoughts on contributing factors are the beat up 25year old engine, big volume SS headers, conservative tune and the turbo journal bearings getting tired. 

  14. 11 hours ago, KA0T1C said:

    Keen to meet at Avalon park tomorrow morning 

    how many of us now? :D

     

    11 hours ago, chatura85 said:

    Count me in emoji16.png

    Sent from my TA-1024 using Tapatalk
     

     

    ill be on my way down too, not sure if will make 10.45 but will swing past anyway :) 

    • Like 3
  15. On 30/12/2017 at 8:34 PM, Subru said:

    maaan, im missing out.... Why is mine using so much? I took it for a dyno run when I got it and everything seemed to be okay and the economy hasn't changed since then...

    Ima do some research.

     

    if you can get/borrow a wideband you'll know whats up. My v3 used to get 350kms to a tank on a good day, installed a wideband + link g4 and am now getting 500kms with ease. Having a decent tune (Keith Stewart did mine) helps a tonne.

    • Like 1
  16. 21 minutes ago, Conducks said:


    I asked about wheel power and he said they only record flywheel power because it’s more accurate
     

     

    Theres no way that 'flywheel power' is more accurate than awkw without an engine dyno.   All a normal dyno does is add a percentage fudge factor to the power at the wheels number.

     

    The scaled 'flywheel power' cannot be used as a comparison to any other car or as a measure of how fast it is due to the scaling needing to be different for every car and power level. For example a 610hp Huracan only makes ~300awkw. This is why everyone talks in power at the wheels, I'm suprised nzpc will even give you a sticker haha.

  17. 1 hour ago, Kiwi_Fozze said:

    Give it a nudge at -15 degrees, see how that treats yah. But yeah i'd be tempted to bump it up a touch, if you got it onto a track / strip at 4500rpm you are more likely to bog

     

    Thanks man, will give it a crack.  she launches like a rocket already so I'm sure -15 will be like next level.

    Cant wait to try on a proper strip w. more rpm. 

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