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McDoof

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Posts posted by McDoof

    BL/BP owners - What made you choose your motor/box combo?

    in Legacy & Outback

    Posted · Edited by McDoof

     nztintin said:
    I have a bp H6 6 speed, If I bought the same car again I'd buy an auto, mainly because starting from stopped on a hill is a bit of a bastard and cruising I seem to be changing gears constantly. It might be a sign I'm getting old. also I don't thrash my car on the road, only a squirt to pass cars every now and then.

    The H6 has plenty of power, I came from owning a turbo 2.0 forester and it's not much different just the power comes on different.

    oh and the H6 has cheaper/easier insurance than a turbo (I tripled my insured amount and halved my premiums and didn't have to get an after market alarm)

    That torque issue is resolved if you get an ECU remap. The stock tune leaves a big hole in the torque down between 1000RPM and 3000RPM. I can pretty much drive around at 50km/h in 6th gear, up hild, down hills and so on.

    I picked my combo by making a list of things I wanted on my car and then picking the car that met most of the requirements.

    H6 -> Check ( I quite like the way the N/A motor delivers power and these were all a bit cheaper than a turbo at the time. Love the way it sounds)

    Manual -> Check. (this was non negotiable in my case, I'm just not a fan of autos, personal preference)

    NZ New -> Check. (Gets 8 Airbags instead of 2 which most JDM cars have except for very few where the original owner ordered the car with the safety pack, also means all things are in English and the Radio works really well without a band expander)

    HID Lights -> No Check (Most JDM cars have them, not the NZ New 3.0R though)

    Macintosh Audio -> Check (It just sounds better and I like good sound)

    Since I have had my car tuned I have helped a few others with their tunes too, mostly with Auto H6 cars and they have all said that it has transformed the car, which includes how the auto shifts, so this actually makes the auto a bit of a better proposition that it would have been when I picked mine.

    From the list you have above, I would choose the facelift nz new 2.5T manual.

    Ticks lots of boxes and it's relatively cheap for what it is. Very very rare.

    2004 BP Legacy "Error 55/SS"

    in Legacy & Outback

    Posted

    This is an ABS sensor issue. I had the same error last year some time.

    It disables ABS, Cruise control etc. Mine is a manual car so the symptoms were a little different.

    The speed sensor sits in the main hub assembly. You can see the cable for it clipped into your front struts. The rears come in along the trailing arms. I'm not aware of any ABS sensors in the gear box.

    There are 2 types of failure that cause this.

    1. The sensor has failed. Fairly simple. replace the sensor. It's an easy job and only requires a 12mm and 10mm socket to undo.

    2. The magnetic tone ring has been damaged. This is part of the hub assembly and is integrated into one of the wheel bearings and will require a whole new/second hand unit.

    I ended up taking my car to Subaru to identify which it was. You could try using a VAG com cable and FreeSSM.

    In my case the Left rear sensor was completely dead. I got a used replacement from Strong for Subaru. $140

    Dumb Question Thread!

    in General Vehicle Discussion

    Posted

    ^^That^^

    The engine bay above look like it's just been built so it is clean.

    However. If you want to keep yours looking fairly good there are a few things you can do. I use a small home steam cleaner (I think it's called piranha) to get rid of any spilled oil. It's accurate so you don't end up wetting the whole engine bay and it's really hot so it just breaks down the oily stuff. Blow away any water with an air compressor if you have one. Wipe off any excess with a soft cloth or chamois.

    If it's just dusty I find the air compressor does a pretty good job just by itself.

    Then finally if there are bit where the steam just isn't good enough then use a toothbrush to get on there and scrub the bastard.

    I used to use a bit of engine degreaser and a hose but once in a while something that was not sealed properly would get wet and the car would run funny or not start.

    BL BP Exhaust Thread

    in Legacy & Outback

    Posted

     Andy_Mac said:
    Got it from Rallysport Direct. Tried getting it from an Aussie store but would have worked out even more suprisingly.

    Na cars not running yet. Hoping to have her running again this weekend

    Aussie must have one of the most expensive international shipping costs in the world. I was planning on getting a custom clutch from Aussie and the shipping just made it too expensive to think about.

    What have you done to your car today?

    in General Vehicle Discussion

    Posted

     Andy_Mac said:
    Na. Would have liked to be able to do it that way.

    Think i'm going to need a mid muffler added to the midpipe somewhere to get it quieter, maybe something like the one McDoof just picked up.

    It's just a resonator, but then again so is the bit I am replacing. The mid muffler on the Legacy is actually just a straight through resonator with lots of packing. The one I am putting in should be fairly close to stock noise levels. I am expecting it to be a bit louder, but not much.

    What have you done to your car today?

    in General Vehicle Discussion

    Posted

     Andy_Mac said:
    Pfft, you're a dreamer. Turbo with 6mt takes the cake.

    Have a drive in mine sometime Marky, once its actually up and running again. I'm sure it could sway you towards one.

    You're probably right. But with the poverty budget I had when I bought this car I would have been a good 6k short of owning a facelift specB.

    3 years ago a good one was still around 17 to 18k. Could probably find one for about 14k now

    Tyre condition VTNZ vs VINZ

    in General Vehicle Discussion

    Posted

     heylinb4nz said:
    Got a VTNZ inspection that says poor condition replace within 100kms. from a WOF perspective they are barely a pass as cracks don't seem to be down to the cords, but esentially within 100kms possibly 500kms there will be no sipes on the shoulders and they will be below the wear markers.

    From a consumer guarantee perspective I would expect to get more than 500kms out of tyres on a car I paid $17,000 for.

    Think we are covered, just need to lean on the dealer to front up with 50%

    I'd be hitting them up for the full cost. If you don't ask, you don't get I say.

    Read them this bit from the CGA

    http://www.consumeraffairs.govt.nz/for-consumers/law/consumer-guarantees-act/guarantees-for-goods#acceptable

    [h=2]Goods must be of acceptable quality[/h]'Acceptable quality' means that goods must be:

    • fit for their normal purpose
    • safe

    • durable – last for a reasonable time

    • have no minor defects
    • acceptable in look and finish.

    When deciding whether goods are of acceptable quality, the test is whether a reasonable person would find the goods acceptable taking into account:

    • the nature of the goods
    • the price paid
    • any information on the goods or the package
    • anything said by the manufacturer or retailer about the goods
    • all other relevant circumstances

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