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Everything posted by McDoof

  1. When I got my headers I essentially booked my set on the liberty AU forum. They tend to let people know when they are doing a new run. The thread has been quiet for a while now though http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=17262&p=447291#p447291
  2. Anyone on here that knows how to program a remote for the Tribeca. I got a spare key programmed, which works fine. Immobilizer etc. However, the remote programming is not that same as the Legacy on which it is based. I can't find the white connectors to put the car into the learning mode for remotes. The key itself looks exactly the same as the Gen4 legacy key There is a procedure published all over the internet that involves opening and closing the door and turning the ignition on and off a few times. This does not work on the NZ Tribeca it seems. Also that would mean the remote needs an 8 digit code for pairing purposes. Which none of the remotes here seem to have. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  3. Found this while cleaning out this morning. Dyno run from a while ago. 163kw at the wheels and a nice flat torque table. I will see if I can find the one that has the stock map on it too.
  4. Yes, they are quite rare, especially if you want a facelift model. But worth the extra $$ if you want a car that is a true drivers machine.
  5. I spent a lot of time working out the best mods for the 3.0R when I had it. By far the best to start with is an ECU remap. For remote tunes, if you have some patience and can deal with long waits, then Matt McLeod (kido tunes) does amazing work on the 3.0R. If you want someone responsive that does a reasonably good job XRT from Barbados does a reasonable job too. The Raptor headers do not add a lot of extra power, but they do free up the top end of the rev range so the car will rev freely all the way from a standstill to the redline. You could spend up large on a custom exhaust, but in reality all you need is the headers and then remove the 3rd cat from the system. Once you go to a bigger bore, even a 2.25" you will lose power in most cases. With these small mods mine was 164kw atw from memory. Which equates to around 210 at the fly. Don't buy an auto unless you really have to. The 3.0R with a 6 Speed has plenty of torque once tuned so you barely need to change gears in traffic anyhow. No need for a heavy duty clutch in these. The standard STI based unit works just fine unless you are supercharging it. The stock suspension is OK, but if you can afford some Sti pink springs or a set of swift springs it will really help the stance a bit and stop it nose diving a bit when you really push it. A rear sway bar upgrade really makes it turn in like it should and pretty eliminates the understeer that these have. That's my 10c
  6. Here are 2 vids of my old legacy. I went back to Stock mufflers after these which I found much nicer. Maybe not quite a budget exhaust build, but also not eccentric. In the videos I still have the Ultrex mufflers on. Raptor headers -> Stock Cats -> Custom 2.5 inch to the Y -> 3rd cat delete -> Stock mid section and then GT Mufflers because they have better tips. From my experience. 1. Keep the 2 stock primary cats. They really help keep the rasp under control. 2. The stock mid resonator is actually pretty decent. 2.25" straight through. 3. Straight through mufflers at the rear or modding your stock ones with some perforated pipe between the entry and exit should give you a decent increase in volume and tone. Adding sound deadening glass or steel wool to the casing will soften and deepen the sound.
  7. If you are on a tight budget and you don't know what you are after, then I would skip all the parts and start with a road tune from a reputable tuner. You'd be surprised at how much more you can get out of a stock car without having to upgrade any hardware. What gains are you expecting from fitting a FMIC?
  8. I had mine done from one of those vouchers. Did a good job and still looks good a year on. Had my tail lights tinted at the same time. Company called Renewcar. Its basically a wet sand, polish and then a UV protection clearcoat to stop it from going yellow again.
  9. PM me if interested. We can sort something out :-)
  10. I have a Tactrix OP 2.0 in Auckland that can be borrowed. Maybe a small rental fee (box of beer) would cover wear and tear. I only say this because I'm on my second one because someone busted the first one when they broke the USB connector off.
  11. The headers really only liven up the top end. They do nothing noticeable in the lower and mid ranges. That's right. It frees up the revs above 5500RPM according to the butt dyno. RSB will help a whole lot. Well worth it.
  12. I think he does a pretty decent job of the GT too.
  13. What are you doing for handling?
  14. I kept my stock cats in place. I just removed the 3rd cat. The Headers to not bolt up. You need to cut the old headers out and weld the included flange in just before the cats. Removing the 2 stock cats is a bad idea. It will sound horrible unless you go nuts with additional resonators. It's very easy to get the sound wrong on these cars. I tried a bunch of things and ended up with the following Raptor Headers -> Stock cats -> Custom pipe to Y joint -> Stock mid section -> Stock rear Y section. You could replace this last Y section with something the flows better but your gains will be marginal (maybe 1-2kw) You can then play with the sound by changing your mufflers. The biggest gain by far is from having the ECU remapped. I had mine done by Matt (Throttle Happy) who is the best I have for the EZ30 but he's near impossible to get hold of and it can be very frustrating working with him. But the results are good. You have to be a very patient person and will need to try and get him as a friend on FB so that you message him. XRT gets some decent results too, but not at the same level. He is however much easier to work with and very responsive. Cryotune does not do a great job on the EZ30. He may have improved by now, but he did my first tune and it wasn't great.
  15. Cryo is just another remote tuner. He should send you any links you need for software. In most cases you only need ECUFlash with the matching ECU definitions. http://www.openecu.org/index.php?title=EcuFlash
  16. Because I left the rest of the system fairly stock it wasn't much louder. It sounds different, but not really louder. This is what it sounded like with a set of after market mufflers. Not really to my liking so I went back to stock. Well I went to a set of GT mufflers which are internally the same, just with a different tip
  17. I had my 3.0R with headers and a 3rd cat delete with an ECU remap. 163kw ATW. Very nice to drive... The stock headers are not a great design. Square tubing into round tubing. Very odd. The raptor headers make a difference to the top end. As in it will pull hard all the way to the fuel cut. The stock centre section is actually quite OK and if you start to mess with that you end with it sounding crap. It gets raspy very quickly if you start replacing things with higher flowing versions. I ended up having to heat wrap the cats though. They were fine on the road but when I took it to the track once they got so hot they melted the CV boot above them.
  18. It does seem a bit pointless. I think when Subaru released the Gen4 Legacy they said something along the lines of making it look balanced and symmetrical which represents the AWD boxer ... AKA Marketing blurb for "it looks mean bro"
  19. So he has. You learn something new every day
  20. If it looks like this you can split it. This also means you have an amplified McIntosh unit. As the connectors from the HU to Amp are not RCA you cannot just drop an aftermarket unit in as the speakers are not powered from the HU. The speaker connections are under the passenger seat. So long story short, you can run new RCA leads to a new amp under the seat (nano amp if you want it to fit) and then hook your factory speaker cables up from there. Or you can run some new speaker cables from HU to your speakers. There is probably some way to get some RCA leads spliced into the factory loom to use the factory amp, but I have not seen it.
  21. I had both of the above issues with my 2000 GTB. Look for signs of arcing on the coil insulator. Mine was arcing to wall when the car got hot.
  22. Looks more like someone butchered an old TATA ute
  23. What's cheap? I had mine done at TyreKing in Marua Road. $20 a tyre plus $50 for alignment.
  24. Spotted this beast this morning and had to get a pic of it
  25. I've heard good things about DTech too yes. Not sure on the 3.0R and Dtech but I have never heard anything bad from them on other Subarus. Soba I think you are a bit bitter mate. You are the only person I know that did not have a good experience with Matt. (other than the bloody long waiting sometimes) And yes I will "Stand by my E-tuner" He's done a good job for me and everyone else that I referred to him. Maybe you can come and sit and pray with me at my Shrine.
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