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My track car is pretty sorted for heat, I can do 20 minute stints screwing it and temperatures remain very stable, oil temp dont go above 90 degrees, unless hood scoop blows off then it goes to 110, water temps stay around 85.
I run oil cooler in the Tmic position, aftermarket radiator with oem fans and oem shrouds attached, hpc coated everything, that made a huge difference to track day temps and temp stability but yes it's not a cheap option but by god it works. IAT temps were pushing 50 degrees on track now stays in the 30's, this is doing 1 min 15 sec laps around Pukekohe constantly for 20 minutes, this is at mid boost (25 psi) on shitty zestino road tyres.
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Waiting on a quote to repair the "paint" on the rear quarter of the car, after chasing a Porsche cup car at pukekohe, and running out of talent at castrol, that will teach me. Luckily mainly got away with it.
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2 hours ago, 94 Leone said:
but for how long....
Sent from my Baked potato using Telekinesis
Time will tell but on their recommendation I made some changes. I am not prepared to risk anything, so bigger lift pump went on and other minor things were done.
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4 minutes ago, evowrx said:
Updated OP. All posts with sheets have been added.
Legend churs
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Model: 00 V6 STI (GC8) - 390KW 30 PSI, (253 kw is at 13 psi).
Displacement: 2L
Mods: GTX3071R twisted gen 1, Link G4+ wire in, black ops1400cc Injectors, 30 PSI, lots modified, (1000HP capable block, Doweled, cdb, oil gallery mods, ARP headstud conversion).
Fuel: E75 ( read from dash EtOH sensor)
Tuner/Dyno: D TECH.In case anyone wonders, yes I could bolt a bigger turbo and go for stupid power above 500wkw easy enough car is built to take it, but why bother, this way car is responsive and fun to drive, I don't want a small rev range of useable power.
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1 minute ago, Dairusire said:
That's a fantastic question, to which I'd like the answer. The tuner believes it to be a trigger problem. However, I've since had all my engines triggers (crank, cam angle etc) all tested and they're good.
Meanwhile I've got a different point of view from others which point it in another direction. Being vague as I don't want to point fingers as I don't 100% know yet and it's extremely hard to tell
I'm interested to find out what happened too, if you get confirmation then post it up, you don't have to name companies.
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Tried to fit the turbo, keeping engine bay clean is a royal pain in the arse when you can only get the turbo on, in a very specific order. Luckily I remembered the exact order on only my 5th attempt. At least it's done now, the turbo oil drain is a pain in the arse too especially when trying to make a dash 10 hose go on dash 12 fitting.
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Willall are another level, one day I will have one.
I just built my dream block, well it was my dream block 5 years ago, but now the billet block has moved things on and once again there's another setup I want more than my current.
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Dont think that belongs in this section, it looks a stunning car. The wing isn't the best but no where near bad enough to be called a crime.
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Just now, evowrx said:
End of the day with your setup @Username I wouldn't bother switching it all out as discussed its an epic amount of coin for a possibly low return.
Yep I agree which is why I didn't.
I pick the engine up Thursday too, so this weekend will be fun putting it back in the car.
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2 minutes ago, StrokedEJ said:
3k damn thats alot considering most fabricators charge average of 1200ish
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
What head studs was he using when head lifted
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
It's 3k because it's complete twin scroll setup with up pipe part of the cost.
Head studs probably should be 14mm stud conversion you would think, arp2000 wouldn't cut it. The dtech 500kw car build in last months nzperformance used arp625 which are supposed to be close to 14mm stud conversion capability without the hassle of machining the heads etc. it's the way I'm going.
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This is the problem, I was going to get him to do my setup but his theory's on ej20 have not been tested and considering I was quoted 3000 dollars plus gst just for the headers ( a lot of fabricators don't want to know) you can imagine how much a complete setup designed by him would be.
It's a big risk, when Plenty have bolted a gtx35r onto a built motor and your good for 450wkw+ depending on boost level, maybe laggy but there's ways around that.
A gt40 on even 2.5 would be laggy as S*** wouldn't it!
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45 minutes ago, evowrx said:
Holsets require a different approach to headers than say a garrett. Hence why murch likes to spec the build.
If you want something off the shelf that doesn't cost moonbeams the ssi unequal are the way to go. Trade me or nzkw.
Clint, has Murch actually built an ej20 for someone yet where he has got them to build to his specs for the heads, headers, up pipe, down pipe, turbo etc?
Is there proof the holset setup significantly improves response, power etc on say a comparable Garrett twin scroll setup where off the shelf parts are used? Or is he still waiting for a Guinea pig to test his theory's on?
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Its growing on me, the Casablanca along with the s201, would be nice to have a collection of gc'8s, 22b, Casablanca, s201 and type r and type ra.
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Drews automotive got them on trade me for 420 and it will take the power in a daily driver. I don't see the point of paying double When this will definitely do the job.
I wouldn't get hung up on genuine or not, I had a crap Chinese one on my car at 300+ wkw and it lasted fine, only changed it as I thought it wouldn't last, when I removed it, it had loads of meat left on it. I was seriously impressed by it.
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I just bought 6 speed clutch and flywheel from drews automotive, sponsor of flatnats for 1100 dollars and upgraded to take 450wkw. I would contact then first will be cheaper than other options. I suppose members should support sponsors of flatnats etc.
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That's an impressive chart for response and torque, power not so much, but it's interesting. After discussions with Clint, tony and my own research, i'm Going to max the gtx3071and if its not what I want then ill go bigger, which one i choose depends on discussions with dave/tony after results but gtx 2nd generation is looking the strong favourite.
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I think I have the backing plates from my gc8 rear 2pot I'm not using them, I will look tomorrow, if you think they would work with your car.
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5 minutes ago, evowrx said:
Sounds like bolting a gtx3582 onto your existing setup and big boost will solve your problem tbh. If it doesnt pan out you could kick it for close to your investment and only lose coin on install and tune. Then sit back and redesign from there.
What's holding the car back, egbp? I thought you were just keeping boost at 25psi to save pushing block too hard?
Tony does bloody well in gtrnz granted he can drive the pants off the car but he's not pushing 400wkw. Surely response coming out of corners is somewhat important and just speculating but antilag could cost a fair bit in the long run? Do people run antilag in gtrnz?
Tony can drive bloody well, very well, his speed is down to his talent. I'm not tony I need the power and anti lag.
Boost is going up to 32 psi max, prob 30. I think the turbo is too small to hit over 410wkw.
6 minutes ago, Dairusire said:When you're talking something that's still a street car, I'd say it makes a large difference. I assume this is still a street car.
If you were to change headers it may well be worth it. The drop in header length gives a huuuuge difference in spool time.
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
It's not a road car.
6 minutes ago, evowrx said:Comparable build is Michael Sorenson I think is his name. Running gtx3582 .82 iirc and pushing mid 400wkw's? Sam hewitts v7 also made close to 500wkw with good delivery but was a dtech package from ground up.
Yeah I know of Michael and he runs anti lag, and yeah 3582 but he's rebuilding his car into a two door going another motor etc it's being built now. Don't know anything about SAMs car.
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15 minutes ago, evowrx said:
Yea I know that but it's in the same physical area so you are still hampered by the stupidly long exhaust runners. I was meaning front mounted turbo so you can get the headers the correct length suited to the engine.
Oh ok, I think I've seen it done low mounted in front but yeah I'm not interested in going down that route, far too much hassle and would require complete redesign and mega money, and in all honesty would it matter when running anti lag. I'd think running two smaller turbos fed by 1 and 3 one side and 2 and 4 the other. Seen that too but once again lot of work
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15 minutes ago, evowrx said:
Generally he likes to spec engine as well or at least have a hand in it. What did Dave and Tony recommend?
Try to contact MSE.
4 minutes ago, evowrx said:Personally I don't see the point in a turbo in stock location on a build that gnarly. Why make it that much harder on yourself?
It's not stock location it's twisted, I agree wouldn't waste my time on stock location. I can fit a huge turbo there if need be but don't want a laggy as S*** turbo, but realise for 450 wkw may have little choice and the anti lag will be needed. I basically want the holly grail of high power quick response on small displacement engine
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28 minutes ago, evowrx said:
The thing to you need to consider is buying off murch is he will spec whats required for the build. If you listen it pays off. If you dont the results less than desirable. Unfortunately that also costs money most dont have.
Take daynoms 2jz for example. Murch specced the build including header and it made more power than anyone here could dream of with insane response.
I highly doubt a gtx3576 will make your 450wkw.
I believe he would want to design, headers, up and down pipe etc plus supply turbo, go twin scroll. Which sinco priced at 3k for headers inc up pipe and 600 for down pipe, Plus gst. Question is, will it be worth it? especially as I just spent 1.5 k hpc coating all the old parts.
I wish i could know just how much better it would work, I.e. Spool time, torque, hp difference compared to just bolting a gtx3576r on the current setup.
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Just now, Optical said:
Yes, look here: http://baeturbosystems.com/holset.aspx
You can even get all the parts to assemble what SM sells
awesome thanks that's exactly what I want so I can compare them.
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43 minutes ago, Batbaruman said:
sorry this isn't on topic but what car are you running the gtx3071r on , what engine (and is it stock?) , how much boost pressure, what's the boost curve and power output like (happen to have dyno sheets)? just been pretty curious about this one for a while but skewed results all over online forums
I don't have dyno sheets sorry, its on a classic Subaru, its not stock, I believe forged internals. only running at 13 psi at the moment which gives 270 kw. I bought the car with this setup I didn't build it. old owner claims it made 300+ wkw at 22psi. Id imagine its hard to see what would happen unless you have an exact same setup as someone else. if I replace this turbo I will be selling it, it has hpc coated hot side too, so no need for turbo blanket.
44 minutes ago, boon said:What are you hoping to achieve with it?
I suspect in many instances, unless you went for a highly customised turbo, a Holset would be a step backwards from a GTX.
Holset is tough as anything and easily rebuildable, but in terms of flow and spool, as well as good results on Subarus, the edge would go to the Garrett.
Interesting you rate Garrett higher, everyone seems to rave about Holset. I do want the local support for it but ive been happy with current turbo if Garrett do flow better I may just go 3576 then. MSE turbos are not exactly easy to get hold of. I'm looking to make 450wkw, why, I don't know, why not, but i'm going to have a few boost settings and 90% of the time it will be below 300wkw setting. I just want the option there if I need it. Build it once build it right mentality. I'm presently building a new motor all components are rated to 1000hp, I intend to enter gtnz series where power above 400wkw is the norm.
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How to keep engine temps down on track day
in Engine Related
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Inter cooler pipes are all insulated using insulating tape. But hot side is no where near throttle body as they run under headlights and twisted set up. With yours I would hpc coat using the cheaper lower temp compatible coating or look into twisting the turbo.