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StrokedEJ

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Posts posted by StrokedEJ

    Ignition issue (main fuse always blows)

    in General Vehicle Discussion

    Posted

    F*** you must have a spare parts bin... 
    Depends how sick of the issue you are but if you swap one coil at a time you'll know which is the problem.
    mark the plugs with which cylinder they came out of. Masking tape and a vivid works so you don't mix them up for later inspection. Or easy for smart people to see in photo if you post one.
     
    thats a high idle! Not sure what caused that... Does your car have an idle control valve? Did the idle start hunting or was it rough when the issue started? Idle stepper motor maybe shorted. Again not familiar with Subaru just guessing from other cars.
     
    2500 is the cold idle temp isn't it (think that's what my one does)? What's the Ecu think the water temp is? That would alter fueling a could fowl plugs etc. again some of the smart people on here maybe able to tell you more about the Ecu side.
     
    only time I've had idle that high was throttle not sealing when I ran a bored out throttle, but could be throttle position not reading correctly. Should be able to see it if you have a cable, even a cheap one can read to OBDII which may have TPS.
    Hahaha nah no spares bin just a budget ive put aside for the car which is near the bottom of the barrell haha. Ecu link g4+

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    Ignition issue (main fuse always blows)

    in General Vehicle Discussion

    Posted

    Is this coil over plug or common coil?  Could be coil drawing too much, a broken lead wouldn't increase draw I don't think just have failed spark.
    Not sure how to test that other than swap it out. Got any Subaru mates that could lend you a coil.
     
    Maybe use IR temp gun on a known good car vs yours. Even that may not show enough difference due to their location. Unless you tested the temp without running the car. Could still draw a bit more current even without firing. Could wait until you have two cars cold and just turn key to on and not start and see if coil heats up a little more on your one. But now I'm really guessing or making S*** up.
     
    if it's coil over plug then one spark plug could look different. Black art of reading plugs, need an old school v8 guy for that.
     
    is the impedance the same as stock injectors.
     
    See still know nothing about Subarus... Yet.
     
     
    Its a wasted spark system. Yes next thing ill do tommorrw is change all the coils to new ones to then eliminate that and maybe spark plugs too. Also car idles at 2500 once this issue occured. Injectors yes they are

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    Ignition issue (main fuse always blows)

    in General Vehicle Discussion

    Posted

    If you're replacing alternator then that maybe the only fault, can't see half of what's wrong with them without an oscilloscope.
     
    Check the current draw specs on the fuel pump at higher pressures if they list them and injector impedance is same as stock. 
     
    If the engine has ever been out I'd still check around the main connection points, never know when someone forgot to unplug something or it got caught up during removal. Beers and late nights make for strange electrical faults.
     
    otherwise fingers crossed it was alternator.
    Injectrs ar high imp

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    Ignition issue (main fuse always blows)

    in General Vehicle Discussion

    Posted

    Not sure what the main engine fuse runs further down, but grab a wiring diagram and look at the next level of fuses downstream.
    have you upgraded any electrical component that run off those i.e. fuel pump, coils, injectors, Ecu etc.
    • guess at the least the voltage has been checked and are ok from alternator? Won't always show on digital multimeter but good start.
    • when you replaced the fuse did you just get the same value or check the manual and confirm cover to make sure it was the correct one to start with? Could be lucky and just have a fuse that's to small.
    • is the rest of your loom tidy? No shorts from unterminated or poorly joined cables.
    other free things to consider is anything electrical cable or component running closer to heat sources as the more you heat them the less efficient they run, which can increase current draw.
     
    Disclaimer: I know nothing about anything, ever.
    Cheers thanks for the help. Voltage check 12v under load. So just purchased a alternator to replace. I have replaced the fuel pump and injectors loom seems tidy as i havnt touched it

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    Not in subaru's but if the holder clips are loose any vibrations can cause miniature arcing and that heats things up.
    The same will happen if the wiring loom isn't crimped into the clip underneath as well.
     
    has the loom been out before and are you missing and grounding cables?
     
     
    No loom hasnt been touched. Appreciate your help

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    Ignition issue (main fuse always blows)

    in General Vehicle Discussion

    Posted

    Hi so ive had a problem with my gc8 for a few years now as it keeps burning then blows the main fuse over time. Im unsure whats causeing it but now i think its starting to affect the cars performances as my car just came off dyno with some misfiring at high rpm under full load. We thought it maybe the loom as it was fine till we touched the loom then it started burnig again then we moved loom then it stopped but it still gets real hot which i know it shouldnt be that hot. Just wanna know if anyones had this issue before. Cheers

     

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    Redline Performance TD05 Alternatives

    in Engine Related

    Posted

    Just get a vf22,25,28,30 or later sti turbo. I can almost guarantee there be bugger all difference in results. I use to run td05 20g an td06 and looking back now the standard turbos are fine with the power your looking fr. You may be able to get more peak power out of the chinese turbos but then your compromising reliablity.

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    Equal or unequal headers???

    in General Vehicle Discussion

    Posted

    It's 3k because it's complete twin scroll setup with up pipe part of the cost. 

     

    Ssi do twin scroll Head studs probably should be 14mm stud conversion you would think, arp2000 wouldn't cut it. The dtech 500kw car build in last months nzperformance used arp625 which are supposed to be close to 14mm stud conversion capability without the hassle of machining the heads etc. it's the way I'm going. 

    Yeah custom aged is the way i think too. Just got my set last week. 3x the price of arp2000 tho

     

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    Equal or unequal headers???

    in General Vehicle Discussion

    Posted

    This is the problem, I was going to get him to do my setup but his theory's on ej20 have not been tested and considering I was quoted 3000 dollars plus gst  just for the headers ( a lot of fabricators don't want to know) you can imagine how much a complete setup designed by him would be. 
     
    It's  a big risk, when Plenty have bolted a gtx35r onto a built motor and your good for 450wkw+ depending on boost level, maybe laggy but there's ways around that.  
    3k damn thats alot considering most fabricators charge average of 1200ish

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    [mention=136]rex-leggy[/mention] was 2.35 with an hx3540 or hx40 iirc and that was epic. [mention=186]gotasuby[/mention] would have details but curve was insane and made massive power before lifting heads around 6k iirc.
    What head studs was he using when head lifted

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    Ej20 or ej25???

    in General Vehicle Discussion

    Posted

    There's nothing complicated about a destroker it still has pistons, rods and crank no black magic onvolved. Same as a 2 or 2.5 you just buy the correct parts.
    Ok so its straight off the shelf. No special sizes,lengths etc etc?

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    Ej20 or ej25???

    in General Vehicle Discussion

    Posted

    At that boost level I would close deck them, you can get it done if you know where to go. There's a ej25 on trade me cdb using cnc insert. I would use arp 625 bolts at least, fully forged, which parts you use is best done with your own research. 
     
    Personally I went ej20 route and not  ej25 just for the nature of the block. You can make that power on both blocks and ez30 have their own problems. Every uk motor builder I spoke to, RCM, AS performance etc didn't recommend destroking the ej25. 
    Yeah both my 2.5 an 2L blocks are cnc closed deck. I was told about de stroking but was also told its more complicated than it sounds. Id rather just put parts that are either made fr 2L or 2.5 to be installed

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    No doubt there are and there's nothing wrong with them for making power. But when both gobstoppers run modified 2L blocks from a company that could build anything they wanted, you have to ask why. 
     
    Personally I would stick to ej20 but everyone has their own opinion and preferances, both blocks will do what you want with enough money. 
    Whats your reasons for wanting to stick with a 2L?

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    Ej20 or ej25???

    in General Vehicle Discussion

    Posted

    Still stuck between a 2L or 2.5L. I have both blocks but still deciding what i want to do. Im asking for your recommendations on what i should build. (Pros an cons). Its for my weeknd car with the odd track an drag days wanting around 400kw atw 30psi MAX!

     

    Cheers

     

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    What do i need to know when changing from ej20 to ej25

    in General Vehicle Discussion

    Posted

    So ive built plenty of 2L engines and now wanting to search new horizons as in stepping upto 2.5L. Besides losing some rpm and increased torque theres nothing much else i know about changing over to a 2.5. I considered stroking a 2L to 2.1,2.2 or destroking a 2.5L but the extra cost involved is alot more significant where if i just did a 2.5L subaru already stroked for us🤣. Looking at different options like putting 2L heads on a 2.5 etc. But just putting it out there to make up my mind of what im going to build next. By all means i aint rich. Insurance is paying for my next motor so yeah.

     

    Cheers

     

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    Best way to ACHEIVE 2.2-2.3L

    in General Vehicle Discussion

    Posted

    5 hours ago, Minaj said:

     Bro, my motor is done CDB 2.1 built stroke cams etc etc. Im picking up motor this weekend and hopefully have it dropped in by next week. I'll let you know how it goes.

    How does everyone know its me😂😂 i just started a new profile 

    9 hours ago, gotasuby said:

    Correcto, but with the cam packages you can get now you can get a great power band from 4-8k. I've done, 2, 2.1,2.33, 2.35 and 2.5l. Personally if I was to do it for a power and rev motor I would do a 2.35. Best one yet followed closely with 2.5. The torque on both was awesome. Makes a 2l feel like it's running on 3 cyl off boost

    Wow see now makes me want to go towards the 2.5 then

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