snowflake009
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Posts posted by snowflake009
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On 04/07/2018 at 7:24 AM, aaronpnz said:
Update:
Got car back yesterday, new fuel pump, fuel filter cleaned, entire full system cleaned out. Filter was just filthy and appears to have clogged, and the full system was also very dirty. Haven't taken it for a rip yet, but seems to have a new lease on life even in commute home, Ngauranga was fun again!
Partly age (2003), NZ fuels, and me driving with fuel light on a lot...
Lesson learned!
Heated seats back... mmmm
Cool! I was thinking my problem was injector related and this supports my theory.
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Have you got the car back and have they sorted the issue? My bp has the same/similar issue but only when its cold and below 3000 rpm.
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On 07/09/2017 at 2:41 PM, willisnz said:
This. I think your sub is wired for either 8ohms or 2ohms.
Research reveals there is Rockford dual coil 2 ohm model which can be wired up for 4 ohms.
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p3sd2-8
Cool there is too. I just assumed he was getting the one he linked
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Found this kit the other day. apparently it works the same or is the same as a hexmods modded valve body. Have you herd anything about them @Andy_Mac?
22 hours ago, sobanoodle said:Good ol' Matt...
Wouldn't go into 5th in S# unless you force it or flick back into S.
Don't you need an upgraded/uprated valve body to handle higher power outputs?
How is the shifting compared to before he played around with it? Any better and are the shift points changed at all?
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Did you wire it for 4 or 8 ohms? Also how is the volume and sound?
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13 hours ago, boostin said:
It can, but relearns are done to smooth out shifts and is all done at very small throttle open angles. It sounds to me like he needs a reflash with a custom rom. I'd be wary of banging too much power through an old worn trans though.
Is that a refresh of the Tcu? I didn't think the could be flashed. I have had the ecu flashed and I'd didn't change the shifts. I am worried how the trans will hold up hense why I'm not looking for massive power. But hey if it does pack in it will be a rebuild or replace. They are pretty common so no drama
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1 hour ago, evowrx said:
I'd be inclined to think it would hit a wall in mid range circa 5k and torque would drop fast rather than taper off.
Mate had a 2.5 with vf36 and restrictor and it was really impressive down low. It worked well due to setup but on the road unrestricted very unimpressive.
Thanks good info. I think I'll have to get some stuff priced up and see if I can do something with the trans to get it to work better
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1 hour ago, evowrx said:
You have the perfect turbo to achieve your goals on a 2l. Its not a lot bigger than a vf which spool every time you sneeze. What power is it making and did you sort the issues it was having?
Putting a bigger turbo on a bigger engine is going to put you in the same place for more money.
Its not detonating like it was but they got to a certain point and it started to make the same noise as the one that let go so they dialed it back to make it safe(ish). So very low on power atm. Putting it down to high compression and a tired motor. They were suprised it lasted the weekend at Hampton downs.
Correct me if I'm wrong but for example if this turbo is good for 240kw on a 2.0L will it not make that on a 2.5 but sooner and start to run out of puff higher in the rev range?
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That's good to know tho putting the turbo aside. If it doesn't do What I want I can always change it later on. I've done the mods so anything with a p25 flange will fit. What I'm after is good responsive street car that I can give an occasional thrash on the track (not competitively just a bit of fun) as far as I'm aware a 207 build will be a lot cheaper. A crate short block for around $2600. And the factory internals should be fine for my power goals. On the other hand I do miss the response and don't mind paying extra to get that or some of that back and I don't think the stock 207 will do it without going smaller turbo which defeats the purpose of the upgrade in the first place. As far as my options go I could do a stroked 207, destroked 257 or a 257. I'm guessing the 257 with a minimum of forged pistons will be the most cost effective considering what I'm after?
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12 hours ago, Ninja8) said:
a 2.5 will spool faster due to its bigger capacity however will not rev as much as a 2.0... i myself have a ej257 DESTROKED to a 2.3 so am still able to rev it out to 7200rpm. it would spool my gtx3076 with a .76 exh housing at 1.5 bar of boost at 4200rpm
my boss currently has a 257 in his rally car and it puffs the vf out too easily.
let me know if your interested in any parts for your build as i have a brand new set of .25mm oversized mahle forged pistons for a 2.0 Build and a semi closed ej207 block to go with it.
and also have a mint 2.5 crank for your 257 build.
Thanks some good info. Any power figures on the rally car for interests sake? The turbo ive got is a machined vf22 with p25 hot side so im hoping it will have a bit more top end than the standard vf. Does the p25 flow more than the p20 that comes factory on the 2.5 or is the difference negligible?
Cool will let you know if I need any bits when I figure out what I'm doing 🤙
12 hours ago, evowrx said:Can you reset the tcu so it relearn shifts?
Yeah will give it a go. Got to load the free ssm onto the laptop and see if it works.
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24 minutes ago, evowrx said:
Is this the vf murch hybrid?
If it is, more displacement will probably choke it and cause you to taper boost in the top end resulting in similar power numbers to a 2l with vf.
Yea that's the one. By similar do you think the 2l will be better in peak numbers or will it be pretty even? I was leaning toward the 257 for better drivability and torque down low as most of my driving is around town.
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On 11/10/2015 at 0:30 AM, Subirex Automotive said:
my suggestion will be go for a closed deck or ej207 2.1 stroker setup over 2.5. 257 are not that good in holding higher revs. 2.0l are better options and good torque specially when you stroke them. if you want a good build done, i will be able to help you out on that.
well thats my opinion, someone might think otherwise.
How is the torque in low rpm (before boost kicks in) with stroked ej207 vs standard ej207? I'm trying to decide what motor to replace my dying motor with in an auto bp5. Has slightly bigger turbo and the trans shifts too low when cruzing to keep it in its powerband so drives like crap unless I manual shift it. I'm leaning toward the 257 but open to options. Will also be using ej20x/y heads and aiming toward the 230 to 250kw mark. Cheers
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oh wow that is low power haha. would definitely recommend wiring up an aftermarket amp to the factory system for a lot more punch and a better sound . this can be done using a line level converter. https://www.jaycar.co.nz/speaker-high-level-to-line-level-converter/p/AA0482. connect the factory sub wires to this unit and rca output to the amp. the amp can be hidden under a seat and keep the sub in factory location for a stealth and clean set up.
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On 8/11/2017 at 8:45 PM, morry10nz said:
I have managed to source a rockford-fosgate-p3sd4-8-8-4-ohm-shallow-subwoofer from Rapid Radio in Grey lynn which is 8" shallow sub and also 4ohm. Am i right that this should work as a straight replacement or am i overlooking something with these complex Macintosh factory set-ups?
That sub is a dual 4ohm voice coil so it can be wired up at either 8 or 2 ohms.
I would remove the factory sub and find out exactly how much room you have to play with and check the resistance of it to double check it is 4 ohms. With a low power factory amp you'll want to find a speaker with a high sensitivity or sbl. For example the one you linked is rated at SPL (dB @ 1w/1m):82. Thats 82db (volume out) 1w (power in) 1m (distance)
https://www.abtec.co.nz/Polk_MM840 This has a higher sensitivity of 90db1w/1m so it should be louder with less power and it is 4 ohms. the only thing is that its 40mm deeper so unsure it will fit as i dont know how much room there is.
There is a few other factors but these are the main ones. Hope it helps :))
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I got my hubs from BNT. not sure what brand they are but haven't had any problems. Done the rears about a year ago and the fronts about 2 months ago.
+1 for removing abs sensor. also a block of wood will stop the mushrooming of the cv spline if your bashing it with a steel hammer.
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On 7/15/2017 at 5:31 PM, evowrx said:
Different compression ratio between the two?
the only difference between the auto and manual is the turbo.... and the transmission of course lol
Could the smaller turbo on the autos be creating enough back pressure to make them more det prone? They had a guy come in with a modified vf38 on his manual leggy that wasnt making power. lots of det etc. long story short. lots of back pressure. got new turbo. problem solved.
On 7/15/2017 at 5:12 PM, Andy_Mac said:You have any thoughts on the possible issue @west_minist?
Three auto's in quick succession on the same hub dyno giving low results and being heavily limited by detonation.
Could torque converter slip actually be playing into this? The same issues don't seem come about with the manuals.
apparently the torque converters lock up after a certain rpm so there shouldn't be slip?? As you say tho the internet has been wrong before lol.
Im guessing as the gear ratios and final drive are different they will give a lower reading? im unfamiliar with dynos and if they can dial the ratio in to give a relative output. i believe the manual is 4.11 final drive and the auto is 3.58?
As for my det problem having the cam timing out of sync will definitely be an issue. especially with the high compression motor relying in it to compensate. I dont know how much ill get after its fixed but it is what it is I guess. at the moment ill be happy to have her running mint. im starting to get tired of driving a sack of potatoes.
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air in your fluid will cause it to pour out the top like that. Any leaks?
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not much of an update but for those who are interested i run a can of some subaru engine cleaner through a couple of weeks ago.
Before
And After
The camera isn't the best but you get the idea. The carbon build up wasn't too bad but the cleaner has definitely removed some.
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Thanks @Andy_Mac good to finally get some logs. Will get my battery replaced and alternator checked out after work. Will be getting new solenoids as well. Just curious if these issues would be causing detonation with the more aggressive tune?
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12 minutes ago, evowrx said:
For some reason I thought yoy had removed the filters and checked for oil in loom. Remember theres a filter at each end of the supply line well there was on the earlier v7-10 sti stuff I played with anyway. The one on head/block would be the first to block up in theory.
There was oil coming out of the exhaust cam sensors but never checked the intake ones. I removed the mesh that supplies the turbo and drivers side avcs (they tee from same supply) from the block but not on the solenoid itself.
Will check it out and report back
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On 6/28/2017 at 9:33 PM, boostin said:
Just another issue to consider. I doubt oil in the ecu would cause detonation, but stranger things have happened.....
Just seen this thread! could very well be a possibility. Tho still haven't checked haha life sometimes gets the better of me.
Will also check the filters on the intake cam solenoids. just had a bit of a look on the interwebs and guys have had similar dino plots to mine with that banjo filter stuck in their avcs solenoids. Hope is not lost just yet
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47 minutes ago, boostin said:
Any oil in the ecu connectors? Yes it creeps up the wiring all the way to the ecu.
Not sure about the ecu. But there is some in the main connector in the engine bay.Will check tomorrow tho. Why you ask?
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No good! Still having same problem. Compression good. Timing spot on. Plugs good. Variable cams are working mint.
Next step will be checking cams and valve springs. Possibly valves not seating properly or floating? New motor or rebuild? This is doing my head in!
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Sweet as give me a buzz tomorrow if your free. Thanks bro!
19 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:May be free tomorrow arvo or any day during the week is allgood.
Yea that'd be mint. Currently have the alternator issue in the too hard basket.
1 minute ago, evowrx said:Which solenoid did you break intake or exhaust? Passengers or drivers side?
Passengers exhaust
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Sputtering and hesitation
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
I pretty much gave up on it tbh. It had over 200thou on the clock so i guess i was pushing my luck gunning for more power anyway, tho I got proper injectors and a new 207 block to go in next week so hopefully no issues with that.