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Andy_Mac last won the day on April 14

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  1. Damn that's some good economy. I'd be lucky to get more like 500-550 from a tank in the Legacy at best
  2. Yea you will have the r180. Can't actually comment on axle types though. I only ever pulled the front ones on my old one. They are an oddball axle though, r180 sized inner with r160 outer to match the hubs for the rest of the lineup
  3. No idea off the top of my head but I always just use the specs for a 257 from one of the GR/GV service manuals, pretty sure there are a few 2.0 4th gen ones floating around too. But i’d be highly surprised if it was any different for roughly the same age
  4. Is it like a single knock as something moves forward when you brake or a repeated knock/clunk when doing so?
  5. yea I just unbolted the mani but left everything attached so it could move a bit to make life easier. I’d definitely do mani before uppipe on one of these cars
  6. you can leave that stainless pipe in place and just bolt the blank piece onto the pipe flange. It ends up just under the turbo and way easier than ditching the whole thing unless you plan to have the uppipe off anyway. Everything in front of that point can be fully deleted. Remember to keep atleast part of the valve with more pins as it has your atmo sensor in it. Pretty sure from memory it’s that one closer to the turbo
  7. Yea rumour seems to be they’ll all be phased out progressively by the end of the year but hopefully that isn’t actually the case. NPD would be nice if stations were better scattered. Maybe 95 and mixed in E isn’t such a bad idea
  8. Heard one next to one of the race tracks had ditched it atleast, can’t remember if was supply or demand related
  9. Best way is to find part numbers is to chuck your chassis number into partsouq.com You can find it on Carjam or the Vin plate
  10. Yea i’d looked into powertune too but had never seen anyone doing odo which i assume is legally needed. Looks like a heap of work to get everything running as you want based on some of the questions rhat pop up on the powertune fb group. What about Haltech? The ic-7 is pretty reasonably priced and would possibly be better suited, or even the aim street dash that gives indicators amd engine light stuff on the side of the frame rather than just on the display
  11. Is the goal to replace the factory cluster? If so you’re a bit more limited in what will do all the factory stuff like indicators and odo and whatnot Emtron do a real nice 10inch one, it’s only like 9 grand
  12. pretty sure that age is fully tunable as it is but isn’t in the same league as tuning with a link, especially if you get a big intake and want to go speed density yea there were a few badged like that but not the norm atleast
  13. The body is already an 01 WRX so should be adequate for cert purposes other than hoops probably
  14. Can’t remember when the changeover was to phase 2 stuff but v3 may not match manifold bolt spacing too. But yea stay with the v7 ones if possible. You won’t need anything too fancy at that power level unless you want to put a link in and go v7 sti heads with intake avcs.
  15. The block won’t be quite as strong from the get go as it’ll be open deck design but half the turbo ones out there are like that too. The block itself is simple but for heads you’d want to stay with the same ones to keep sensor stuff compatible without a heap more work on wiring. 400hp is probably pushing it a bit for reliability of an open deck block if it’ll be driven hard. Unless you’re getting the non turbo one free it’s possibly still worth trying to get hold of a blown 207 to build up
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