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Andy_Mac last won the day on May 4

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  1. Yea definitely. In theory it’ll actually be cheaper as the ECU won’t have to retard the timing anywhere near as much so you’ll need less fuel for a given power requirement.
  2. If you can get hold of recaro rails compatible with your chassis then the GR/GV Recaro’s are very supportive for a factory option seat. Deep enough for decent support without being too uncomfortable or hard to get out of
  3. I think something went wrong with a windows driver that destroyed compatibility with the standalone LV program a few years ago as it seems to no longer work for almost everyone. The one in the top menu’s of romraider logger is the next best way
  4. All zero’s in those two tables means the tune and health of things is bang on but usually isn't attainable for a stock tune so a little bit of variation isn't terrible. The corrections in the top table can be controlled by the ecu as high as 15% so they're half way to being uncontrollable variations. Most of your bottom ones are positive which isn't super normal but isn't bad like negatives are which indicate there has been knock in that range consistent enough for the ecu to make a semi permanent reduction to the timing.
  5. Through leak check is the way to go if it still has the factory MAF box and not a pod filter one. Those figures are reasonably bad so it could be the infamous split in the intake plenum just before the throttle body
  6. I passed with my old decatted DP and R400 but it was definitely above the legal limit, I go to a local mechanic though as I would have been willing to bet VTNZ would fail it for noise. Most straight piped Subies seem quieter than it. As much as it isn't the ‘right’ thing to do i’d say your easiest option is to put a factory one back on for the recheck then go back to the R400 later on.
  7. Passed the cert with flying colours but driving it for the first time after doing the hoops I’ve noticed one of the speakers now hums along with the engine speed so may need to piss around with the wiring to get that back to how it used to be
  8. Yeah the STI setup just needs a single pair cable from the aftermarket ECU, the Legacy one connected to the obd2 port for the factory ECU with a tactrix cable and OTG cable for the tablet
  9. Where do you have yours sitting? I hated mine as it was way too dim and would reflect literally everything making it almost unreadable, the contrast and brightness of the Banks one is miles ahead
  10. I’ve just gone for a simple 52mm CAN multi gauge in mine. You don't need a whole row of gauges to display what you want once you go digital. Set up is easy and cost was somewhere under a grand but you're relying on the sensors you've already installed for the ECU fail safes which is where the bigger cost is. I don't look at it as much as I should but it can be setup with warnings for any of the available parameters and multiple pages of different layouts. It's mainly used for trouble shooting issues when I can't be bothered dragging the laptop out to plug into the car. The other way to go is to get a spare android phone/tablet setup somewhere on the dash permantely connected to the OBD2 port with one of various apps running whatever parameters you want to see. The one I used in my old legacy was super useful but was only supported for a few vehicle models. It could be setup to do logging and snapshots of all available parameters whenever a knock threshold has been past.
  11. Waste of time and money really. You're not going to notice mid pull it's off before any damage is done and it's not the kind of gauge you can set up to alarm as it's always changing depending on the AF figure the ECU is aiming for at the time. Heaps of people feel the need to get them but would probably never notice if the readings were out
  12. Did you ever do it on the STI? It should be pretty similar. I had issues with mine as the button resistances were too close together so it would often volume down when clicking up which I've never really resolved. It might be easier to trace it back to behind the wheel and test it out there. Or even with a multimeter at the plug behind the HU
  13. Don't forget the original power was at the engine where this is the same figure but at the wheels so you get an extra 10-30% bump over the original depending on who you talk to about drivetrain loss.
  14. It shouldn't get on boost any faster than with a bigger spring if everything is working as it should. Running out of control at high boost is the usual reason to upgrade though the preload on an adjustable arm has been know to stop them creeping open also. The solenoid is disrupting the pressure going to the actuator so you could technically have zero boost pressure making it's way to the actuator which will allow the fastest spool possible, but that isn't necessary as you only need to stay below the opening threshold of the stock spring to keep that optimal response. You can pull your turbo and using an air compressor with a low pressure attachment test the gate to see at what psi of ‘boost’ it would start to creep open. It won't help the tuner much but will give you a idea of how it's doing it's thing.
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