Andy_Mac

Have you seen how on the later cars they have both fed from the same reservoir? Haven't seen it myself but it gets talked about a lot on FB pages. Could get lucky and find that res fits straight on our brake master then just run the line down to the clutch however they do it from factory.

That mopar way seems like a heap more effort. The Volvo should be just a matter of new supply and return lines then power. Some people even run it with no signal stuff working so it goes into a sort of limp mode and just runs a fixed percentage assist, something like 60-70% It would be interesting to see real world amp draws on the Volvo, I’d assume it’s usually quite low and only sees anything particularly high during full lock at crawling speeds where there’s probably enough grunt in the battery to negate the shortcoming for short bursts.

Exact reason it peaked my interest. @Gripless the at should be pretty easy for a tuner to sort out then. Some form of feedback if it’s unhappy for some reason might be nice if it even does that but not really needed.

You’d still need to be able to sniff out the data to get the ECU to understand it though, not hard for a shop I guess.

Pretty sure there’s a factory alternator from a Tribecca that’s way bigger than any others but may still keep external dimensions which the track subie guys go to. There are some control modules out there to control them externally. One just has a GPS so at ultra low speeds it adds max assist then slowly tapers back with speed. Hooked onto an aftermarket ECU would be ideal but that’ll be a bit more effort and cost. https://www.servtronic.com/products/new-automatic-gps-volvo-c30-c70-s40-v50-power-steering-controller-kit?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR2LGYst-5INecRFaTWGb47DWVpINB73zOkX7_Lb5wke4lu4be8Nx0988gw_aem_MnABhHFABHcxr9eD9n8aKw

Have you seen the electric Volvo power steering pump people are trying these days. Not sure if there are any cert issues with it but it looks like a sweet option. Would mean the alt could get flipped the opposite way for a low running reverse manifold while still keeping AC

What kind of k’s are you looking for? 32k is pretty steep unless its a GV sedan and super low k’s or heavily modified. 20-25k is about the point for a pre facelift GR with somewhere in the 150kkm + area Also EJ25’s aren't super terrible, probably better with an auto where it’s harder to thrash/shock them. The pistons are the main weak point that don't like the abuse or a crap tune

Kinda an age thing but they do insure other vehicles that don't quite fit the standard daily driver criteria. Mines a 2010 but heavily modified and does barely 4kkm a year

How many k’s on the body? 21k value is a joke for a sedan for sure. Is it a daily driver? I'm with classic cover but that's got a soft limit on how many K’s you do a year. Can't remember the exact wording but they do an agreed value that can be over market value by a certain amount but if you want higher they just need an independent valuation done to prove any extra value

Yea bottom end is why I've never bothered with one in the past. But they work well as running reversed with AC unlike any of the other options.

Good point actually. I'd been thinking about it purely aesthetically no practically. Plus my car will never be winning any awards for a tidy bay anyway so there’ll always be something else less appealing to worry about My other hesitation is fitment. My turbo is crazy close even to the factory manifold so highly likely something like this won't even clear it

A red one would be pretty sweet. Still kinda fancy the torque solution ripoff version with the vacuum manifold on the bottom but apparently general quality is no where near as good

Yea GV rear ends are a bit meh. GR hatches are only slightly better but look a lot better with aftermarket tail lights. I really like the rear end of the VA’s. Facelift VA Performance wise they're not much of a step up but in terms of interior design and tech they're miles ahead. GR/GV’s are essentially 100% cheap plastic interiors so get quite rattly but if you can happily look past that there isn't really anything wrong with them. 2.5’s are sorta risky. They don't take well to knock and blow their ringlands but if tuned well people do perfectly well out of them and are far happier cruising round at low revs than the 2.0’s

Not that bad really. Leaking schraders and valves in general aren't exactly uncommon in refrigeration and a decent cap with a new seal or just thread tape is often the solution. The plastic caps on these may not seal perfectly well with age as they can become brittle but worth a shot putting a new viton O-ring into it to keep the cool juice where it needs to stay

Weird, for some reason i’d always thought the 7670/8370 was the biggest you could go on internal. Is there no 98 nearby you?