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Andy_Mac last won the day on January 5

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  1. I'd confirm it the other way round anyway. Short of leaving an o-ring out there isn't any other reason for it to not work other than it being faulty.
  2. Check that it is in fact wired the right way round. I did the same with my first one so it ran backwards, sounded fine but never actually builds line pressure enough to start. I almost felt like the pump was internally wired backwards compared to the factory one as I had double checked all my wiring before starting it.
  3. Have you gone for a good drive with it yet? My old one on the legacy sounded similar to that at first until the mufflers kinda settled in. Worth chucking some rags in the tips and see if you can hear it leaking elsewhere.
  4. I mean, if you get a rear end wrecked manual on the cheap it may work out but anything else won't be financially viable
  5. It'll surely be a shambles like the 4th gen Legacy’s. The only easy way would be to swap essentially everything over from a donor car including most of the electrical components and looms as the CANBUS system makes it a messy swap. Maybe CCT can Jimmy something up in the ECU like they have apparently done with the 4th gens but most tuners are not capable of doing this level of programming in the ECU as they just aren't dedicated to putting that much time and effort into a factory ECU for a single platform. Needing a cert is a given as you'll be changing the brake peda
  6. @boon What kind of centre diff does a V7 have? Non-dccd for a standard model aye?
  7. Not sure on the older STI’s setup but 4th gen Legacy’s would often get a click similar to that which was the viscous centre diff. It would be much worse doing tight turns and once warmed up.
  8. There’s a whole thread on legacygt.com where people have made random 3D printed bits. I imagine if you can get gauge holders sorted for the vents and centre cubby for the 4th gen Legacy’s you’ll make a few bucks for sure. The only other guy I know of making them 3D printed style currently is pretty rough so if you could improve on that there is a heap of potential. He’s gone with a modular approach where you clip more pods on which doesn't look all that tidy
  9. Upholsterer?? Can't say I've ever considered sourcing some from an upholsterer. I just buy 10+ of every style my car needs from partsouq at next to nothing and slowly burn through them as they get wrecked upon removal.
  10. They need 48mm ones. All the various factory one's I've had from v7 up have been the same length
  11. Dunno if flow is exactly the same but they are the same physically.
  12. I was hitting much higher than that but that was when I was tuning it which was quite conservative and probably a bit richer. @Jack.c11 those ones with the extensions are probably the way to go. No idea if those full size ones are the right size for the Subaru top feed rails.
  13. Nah. You just grab the plug kit and cut the factory pins off and put compatible ones on. Or buy the little adaptor wire section that goes from the factory loom plug to the ID injectors.
  14. Pretty sure they won't be. Most guys getting their v11’s tuned with them max out before there. I changed to ID1050x’s for future proofing.
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