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nihell

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Posts posted by nihell

  1. 17 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

    I passed with my old decatted DP and R400 but it was definitely above the legal limit, I go to a local mechanic though as I would have been willing to bet VTNZ would fail it for noise. Most straight piped Subies seem quieter than it.  


    As much as it isn't the ‘right’ thing to do i’d say your easiest option is to put a factory one back on for the recheck then go back to the R400 later on. 

    I am

    actually thinking about this one to do, its just a matter of where i can borrow it as mine came already with this. VTNZ passed this last year and now they decided to

    fail it so

    thats really got me confusing😅.

    • Like 1
  2. 1 hour ago, DRFVDR said:

    So there is a prescribed test procedure using calibrated test equipment ( an ear is not that) BUT once it has failed for noise it will be logged so taking it elsewhere will most likely (unless they have the test equipment) mean that it will still be failed. 
    If you have it tested as being OK and they can supply you a "cert" then you should be fine from then BUT I would make 100% sure that it is compliant 

     

    i see, thanks for that.

    Im just still in wonder as i do not think that my system is any louder than anyone else as its a common exhaust system on the newer ones.(invidia r400) . but thanks for the info man.

    18 minutes ago, Joker said:

     

    yeah been there done that

     

    My GTB was imported and fine for about  years then my Wof guy flagged it (They are under pressure too & wasn't for fun I believe)

     

    went with a 'hot dog' like a Coby in the center section at the time (And new Muffler, was a no name unidentifiable big bore Before)

    sounds like its going to be a costly fix 😑 

  3. thanks boon, i did thought about that although it passed an emmission test which was performed and stamped by vtnz as well so

    that got me curious on how suppose on that make it any difference when i never altered anything on it.

    On 23/04/2022 at 6:10 PM, DRFVDR said:

    have the output actually measured ( did they measure it when it failed or was it just a calibrated ear ? ) 
    it probably is to loud ( anything non standard would be borderline ) 

     

    it seems like its a calibrated ear😅. never shown any proof or that its above the decible limit. 

    Is it possible to go to a different shop to get a 2nd opinion on it? is it something i can do? as it seems the place i went the area itself is making the car sound like it its louder than it supposed be (echo)

  4. Hi,

     

    just wondering if anyone had similar situation with i have. I failed my wof due to being noisy? pbms free flow downpipe and invidia r400. I was questioning them as how come the vehicle passed its last years wof when i never altered anything on the vehicle and the guy just basically dodge it. Is there by any chance i could try to "challenge" the inspection and comment done on my vehicle? 

     

    I went to VTNZ. Any input is much appreciated.

     

    thank you

  5. Should i be very worry about not having a brace? Tho im planning on getting one, just want to see how long can i drive it with it without the brace?

     

    or should i just re install the stock one?

     

    any had experience without having the brace

     

    i have a 2014 sti (vab) 

     

    any info would highly appreciate!

     

    DD853F75-E37B-4421-9F4E-5FE6837E1200.jpeg

  6. 23 hours ago, Gripless said:

    yeah they cover some mods, the ones that aren't covered. like exhausts, wheels, suspension are wear items so they allow them in a lot of cases.

    I get one for minimum 6 months and thrash the car, if it survives then not much lost. if it dies you save s*** loads.

     

    Also its a good way to prevent wasting money on more mods. the waiting until it expires gives you time to save and plan.

     

    I've had two major claims both in the thousands covered. So I've done well from them.

    My STi has a new gearbox, my Evo had the rear active diff replaced under warranty.

     

    Thanks for that so is that from protecta too?

    On 29/04/2021 at 1:23 PM, Batbaruman said:

    IMO not worth. too restrictive with modifications and you have to generally visit more expensive places for proof of servicing as a requirement of meeting your end of the insurance. also like Joker mentioned, heard from many others who have had it about same issue of certain things being considered as multiple jobs and therefore requiring multiple excess. They also seem to have a cap of how much they will pay out per claim / overall.. would just save the money for proper maintenance especially given the prices for most subaru parts are not very expensive should it come to that.

    Yeah i guess that was my thought too tho just looking if people “do” actually get one . Thank you for the info

  7. 1 hour ago, Joker said:

    AON here : also a broker, but I'm also 40 :P

     

    and nothing newer than 2012 (the Hyundai)

     

    Subaru GEX is 1996 

     

    and the Avenger/s are 1976'ish

    Hi joker,

     

    never used one does that have extra payment? Could you go thru me with the details thank you

    • Like 1
  8. 7CB98B4F-4859-4A29-B387-78D48C0C11EF.jpeg

    Sorry for this post i was trying to make a proper post but then it went somewhere. Forgive me if this has been asked or been talked to in another post feel free to enlighten me and lead me to the post wherein similar to this.

     

    i have a 2014sti and looking for best insurance company

     

    so far have qoutes from

    STAR, classic cars and club auto. 
     

    which you guys went or prefer?

     

    thank you..

    • Like 2
  9. 5 minutes ago, Technikhaus said:

    Yeah sadly with more modern cars it's just too much of a mess, often the transmission mounts themselves will be completely different.

     

    Also 100% will need a cert, technically changing the brake pedal in any car requires a cert :(

     

    As much as it sucks, the best/potentially only option is to sell it and upgrade...

    Thanks for that.

     

    I do expect that its going to be in that route but yeah like the other comment i might try and maybe get a donor or something and use that.:)

  10. 11 hours ago, Gripless said:

    Mate, if workshops won’t take your money, why are you still trying? They are say it’s not worth the profit of doing it for them. Let alone the base cost. 
     

    ring the LVVTA and see what they want these days as well.

    it used to be easy to do with no cert but as soon as you have traction control etc it’s all safety related and so all likely to require recert. 
     

    I’ve converted other cars but wouldn’t even bother with newer ones as it’s a pain to get all the electrical s*** working and having seen there are actually 3 or more varieties of the GR v11. My one predates the wiring manual and then the facelift is different again for some things. Plus you can’t trust anything from American forums as the are left hand drive.

     

    Hi sir, thanks for the detailed response. Like i said its just a matter of deciding factor as per your opinion, that gives me like yep maybe just give up and yes i do know about the LVV cert that needed to be done and yes i do know it will be costly im Just looking here in NZ if theres an actual person which i heard there is one. I’ve seen one converted in malaysia which has the same spec and apparently having an aftermarket ecu will definetly make it more smoother.

     

    thank you for that.

    10 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

     

    It'll surely be a shambles like the 4th gen Legacy’s. The only easy way would be to swap essentially everything over from a donor car including most of the electrical components and looms as the CANBUS system makes it a messy swap. 

     

    Maybe CCT can Jimmy something up in the ECU like they have apparently done with the 4th gens but most tuners are not capable of doing this level of programming in the ECU as they just aren't dedicated to putting that much time and effort into a factory ECU for a single platform. 

     

    Needing a cert is a given as you'll be changing the brake pedal for the manual one.

    Hi sir, thanks for the info i do have the feeling that it will always comes down to that as newer car have i guess more complicated wirings🤦‍♂️. Thats not even a bad idea to have a manual shell and transfer most of the stuff hopefully in time there be more wrecked GR😅 .I might have a go and ask them if they know or can do somethi ng about it.

     

    thank you

    • Like 1
  11. Hi subaru gurus,

     

    Question is plain and simple yet i believe it’s a complicated question.

     

    first of all i’ve done some few research and yes it is a hard work that i do get the same answer everytime i do ask this question.

     

    I am wondering if is there anyone here in NZ at all done a transmission conversion on this model? (AT to MT) how long did it took and how much money did u throw on it to be done wheter DIY OR a reputable shop.

     

    I did ask few reputable shop and got the same answer which is very practical (sell the car and get a manual), i do understand the thought of it its just more of a deciding criteria for me wheter to just go with that suggestion or if there is another option as i kinda dont really want to part ways with the car. 
     

    At the moment im still looking at it, might change in the future but yeah just seeing whats out there and is anyone in here knows and can actually get me some digits on how much the spend be.

     

    Thank you.

     

     

    • Confused 1
  12. Hi,

     

    First Im no guru or any subaruwiz 😂 . 
     

    Having it tune with or without replacing the downpipe will be beneficial but IMO having an aftermarket dp will make it far more better it will save you atleast another tune when you decide to get an aftermarket dp in the future.


    Intake apparently as per my tuner isnt really going to give you a big gain with the basic modification ive done so thats a saving for me. But if you want to have that intake noises then its up to you, seen a lot of good feedback on processwest intake.

     

    I went into catted downpipe as i just think that its the safer route rather than having paranoid with boost creep, thats just me tho but a lot of people will say catless are better and as long as its properly tuned you wont have a problem.

     

    ive went into catted and didnt have to replace my boost solenoid as it was suggested by the tuner.

     

    The modifications on my car is invidia r400, 3”catted downpipe, stock intake with KnN filter (washed out the oil first) , process west TMIC(better cooling and preventing heat soak)

    aem fuel pump.

     

    I went on to ecutek tune, just because ive heard a lot of good feedback about it not just here but even outside the country. They can offer you as well an app that you can use as an accesport like the cobb ones. 


     

     

    • Like 1
  13. Good day,

     

    *please let me know if i wrongfully posted this question in this category*
     

    I was wondering if anyone can recommend a place to do a premium service on my V11 around bay of plenty area? I used to go to hamilton but now that warranty is out i am pretty much open. I do live here in Rotorua and theres 1 shop that i might consider.


    Just really looking for an option.

     

    Any information will be appreciated.

     

    thank you

  14. Hi guys! Appreciate all your comments.

     

    so i went to have a look on trade me and  some sells smaller diameter than 330 and states “fits” brembos. So wasnt sure about that but yeah was thinking will be bigger rotors will solve this issue? 
     

    this is a photo of what i meant of the brembos Being thick.

    kEHUGIXU_t.jpeg

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