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YoungOne

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Posts posted by YoungOne

  1. 2cents, Subys that I've seen have engine issues on track are usually 'ambitiously' modified/maintained and driven very hard as one would drive an N/A honda (right up near the redline all the time). Generally the standard or mildly modified ones in good nick can cruise around all day no problem. 

    • Like 4
  2. Added a billet one off ebay for a laugh a while back, couldn't feel any difference. Sure it does something in theory and it looks sort of cool but can't tell on track or road if its there or not, car already has a lot of NVH so might've missed that aspect.

     

    Edit: this was the most solid one I could find, way beyond a Grp N and still couldn't tell, drag racing/launching talk sounds logical to me and I haven't done that myself so couldn't comment

  3. 1 hour ago, Gripless said:

    I thought it was just the end of the EJ engine.

     

    As long as there's a WRX doubt prices will change. And old cars are based more on following. Look at the integra 16k for a dc5 wtf?

     

    Literally never got why DC5's are so expensive, read about them, couldn't see it, drove one, didn't get it.

     

    As for the article according to the google its the end of the U.K importer of Subaru's importing them, so wouldn't get too punchy with the savings account. Its still an interesting point as there must be a reason they're stopping but won't affect NZ.

  4. 11 hours ago, Kiwiflyboy said:

    The drift guys put spacers under the bonnet hinges to lift the back part by the window to help hot air escape

     

    Try this its a cheap solution (like most drift ideas) and can't do any harm. If you're still running the factory hood scoop (not that they're very big on a BC) with a FMIC that could also be an issue as well as in theory it'll be creating a high pressure zone in the engine bay and working against the radiator and fmic, I'd take it off and see if it makes any difference.

    • Like 2
  5. 1 hour ago, Batbaruman said:

    yep mine too.. engine breaking noise from tranny is quite noticable but not overly terrible. any sound clips of yours @YoungOne

     

    That basically sums it up, its pretty noticeable, which in a pretty loud car I figure that's quite a big noise, if it gets any worse I'll upload but after replies I suspect this is normal.

     

    2 hours ago, calebwrx said:

    Don't quote me, but I'm going to blindly say it should be normal.

    Same results from installing a Group N trans mount on my car, now I have a very noticeable grinding sound from the box on deceleration. My conclusion = the noise was always there (might be normal, might not be, high chance it could lunch itself soon being a 5 speed), the new solid mounts just transfer it to the chassis and into the cabin more than the soft ones did. Could be the same thing for you?

     

    I think your theory is correct, I've got a 6 speed not a 5 but it does sound like its coming from the rear differential so not too worried about the gearbox, might change the oil in the gearbox and diff at some stage. But seems likes its a pretty common thing so not too worried now.  

  6. Hi All

     

    Installed a Laile rear diff brace (as pictured below) on my car last weekend, pretty sure I did it right, no way to really install it wrong, and I'm getting BIG grinding noises from the rear diff on deceleration, not talking about a little whine, like big noises. I expected a bit of extra NVH but this doesn't sound healthy. Anyone had any issues with these braces putting too much stress into the rear diff (key point here might be that the engine and trans mounts are still standard?). Or am I just being paranoid?

     

    Pic

    S76010MTDRS-c_6.jpg

     

    Cheers 

  7. 8 minutes ago, Batbaruman said:

    hey i got a question for ya. my only alignment on my car has been for cert purposes so i asked for the standard 'do it within spec please'. my next alignment is due soon, if i want a nice handling whip that i can throw around without excessive tyre wear, what should one ask for?

     

    I'm no expert but usually I ask for around 1.5 degree negative camber front, 1 degree negative rear and and 2-4mm total toe out at the rear and 0 at the front on a GC8. Seems to give a decent drive that doesn't follow cambers heaps and isn't stupidly hard on tires. Would also be interested to hear what others do.

    • Like 2
  8. 7 minutes ago, Conducks said:

    Used to race go carts. Did two track days in dad’s R35 GTR and his 911 Turbo S at Mansfield, wet and dry. Was keeping up with V8 Touring cars in the 911. The track makes cars feel so slow. Even with 580hp the 911 only clipped 220kmh down the Mansfield straight.

     

    Also raced motorbikes, jetskis, jetboat and racing buggy’s.

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    Your not seriously arguing that a trackday is an inappropriate venue for driving cars because your daddy's supercars didn't feel fast are you?

    • Like 3
  9. 8 minutes ago, Conducks said:

    Okay okay - back on topic. Purchased this off of trademe last night, hopefully get it on this weekend 32043c0fe14908baa337be0639a64029.png


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    Mate this isn't a forum for showing off what you've bought and bragging about putting other people's lives at risk. You've obviously got a passion for cars and $$$ to spend, make that a positive experience that doesn't harm anyone

  10.  

    4 minutes ago, boon said:

    You tuner should be able to tell you your injector duty cycle, which will tell you with 100% clarity, no wet finger in the air bullshit, if you are running out of fuelling. If your tuner cannot tell you this, they are a potato and should not be tuning cars that use injectors.

     

    This. If your tuner doesn't know what the duty cycle is you're up the creek without a paddle man.

    • Like 1
  11. 2 hours ago, evowrx said:

    They cost red line around the 150nzd iirc I looked at buying a few in couple of years back from their supplier.

     

    Just tune it with a sti turbo from the same era.

     

    Wow that's actually kind of impressive they can get them so cheap. 

     

    34 minutes ago, pedro said:

    Lots of reading available about these ..

    There are good and bad reports..

    Always an element of risk buying something that's cheap and been copied in China..

    Then again who knows what quality has been incorporated into the product..

    Cost price of $150 nz = $108 us..This is a healthy sum in China..

    Turbo is a precision thing,Are you the gambling type?

    Give it a go and report back..

     Edit..What are the warranty conditions from Redline ?

     

    Haha this is the reason why I ask to see if anyone else has done the risky part

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