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Hayks

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Posts posted by Hayks

  1. 3 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

    Stock is a TD04HLA 

    Could be a Kinugawa one or something modified by Murch. You can replace it with the TD04HLA, VF44 or VF45. There are some minor differences in oil lines and other general fitment differences between the IHI and MHI turbo’s but no one really struggles to make them fit. 

    You'll want to confirm what you currently have and that it still has the factory mounting design for the exhaust and compressor housings first or a factory one won't fit.

    And work out why the first one failed. Alot of people just put a new one in and have it fail a month later as they never solved the issue that caused the first to fail.

     

    @Hayks has a TD04HLA for sale.

    Cheers mate have sent him a pm. 

  2. Hi guys, so me and my partner recently purchased a 08 S-GT. Right, from the start there was a dead passengers window switch, apparently common so no issue changed it out. After doing so the drivers side master switch would be intermittently unresponsive (quite often though) and would have no power until you  used the lock/unlock button. Only then would the back lights for the switches illuminate and then the windows would work. This i guess wasn’t a huge issue until this morning which got me wondering if there were deeper issues with the cars wireing. So this morning my partner started the car to go on her way to the gym. The car was left outside so there was some dew on the windscreen. Shortly after she came inside and complained “the window wipers were not working” so i went out to investigate to find the left hand stalk completely unresponsive, no stereo power and no clock/trip meter ect. After hosing the cars window off to see a little clearer she went of to the gym (scheduled class so couldn’t dive deeper). When she got in the car for the drive home she told me that “everything was working again” so now I’m left a little stumped. I took the car for a short 5 min drive after work (everything working fine) and when i removed the key from the ignition the key and barrel were hot to the touch? Now I’m a little worried as to why and wonder if anyone has had any similar issues? Any help would be appreciated.

     

    Cheers.

  3. Hi all so a good mate of mine has just bought a full version 9 drivetrain swap for his RS-RA. Looking for abit of info on weather the hubs will just be a direct bolt on swap and weather or not an auto drive shaft will work with the 6 speed or will we need to shorten the shaft? I know the diff flange is different on the later 6 speeds so can i also just swap the r160 flange onto the r180? Also i know with my bl5, to swap a r180 diff into that i need an aluminum (spec b) diff cradle. Is there any specific cradle that we will need? Cheers. 

  4. Sorry full tard moment here

     For some reason thought rev d was all 3rd gen lol. If all suspension is the same from 99-03 then yes only top hats on the front need to be changed. One thing i did also notice is the BL/BP front inserts are a little longer then the BE/BH ones. My BE/BH ones have no thread showing at the bottom perch so basically as high as they can go and are not quite tucking tire on a 225/45 17 tire (10mm off the guard). The rears were exactly the same as my old yellowspeed though. Although the yellowspeeds arent known to go very low. Again sorry for the confusion

    • Like 1
  5. Gull 98 is imo the best 98 offered in nz and have seen some pretty big power gains swapping to it. Especially in turbo applications. I run it in my 05 manual and i can feel the difference running anything else bar. I usually notice 50kms tops per tank of fuel difference between gull and mobil. 

  6. 18 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

    @sobanoodle will know. I'm more of a fan of cutting and crimping to keep the mess of cables and plugs back there to a minimum.

    Cheers man, im not a fan of that as it makes it harder to revert to stock if it ever came to it. Plus im putting a mechless single din stereo in so plenty of room back there! 

    8 hours ago, sobanoodle said:

    Subaru to ISO and the ISO to whatever stereo you replace it with

    Repco, Supercheap or Trademe will have them. 

    Cheers man just didnt know if they still shared the same iso plug as say a wrx or if it was some un common one.

     

  7. Hey guys just purchased a double din conversion kit for a great price as im absolutely sick of the factory sounds and how weak they are. I was wondering if anyone knows if theres a iso harness adaptor available and if there is does anyone have the part number? To suit the factory kenwood 6 cd stacker unit. 

  8. On 28/05/2019 at 11:23 PM, Andy_Mac said:

    Yea the ECU can do various things to pull the boost back depending on what it thinks the problem is.

     

    Are you talking about a standalone EBC or just an electronic solenoid controlled by the ECU?

     

    if standalone that's probably another bad move. The ECU will be having a hissy at the weird changes it has been seeing and that nothing it does to try correct things is working. Plus the tune will be set up completely wrong for what boost can be seen at any particular point.

     

    The best thing for these cars is to replace the stock solenoid with a 3-port one and get a decent tune. Manual and standalone electronic setups just make a mess of things on these cars.

    Yea im not to sure why it had a manual tee in it to be honest but i think if thats the reason its doing it i may go back to the tee as it run fine as it was with the tee. The tee naturally falls off boost though and does the same thing in my mates courier. 

    On 29/05/2019 at 8:49 AM, Pappu1 said:

    if you are in Auckland, i can help out as done a fair few of these models

    the stock controller is good and so is a quality EBC.

    boost should not taper off that bad 

    what mods have you got on it 

     

     

    Im not sure if the stock solenoid even works on the car. Mods it has is subtech down pipe k&n hi flow filter Greedy profec b boost controller and c pipes. Im in hamilton though unfortunately 

  9. Hi all so i have an issue with my car. It had been re flashed with manual boost controll bleed valve before my ownership. It used to spike to 1.3 bar then settle to 1.1 bar and taper off to .7bar after 5.5k rpm. I put in an ebc to try stop the boost spike and succeeded. Now the first couple pulls i did it held 1.1 bar boost all the way to red line. Now it doesnt do that after 5.5k rpm the boost tails off again but even worse now down to .3 bar? So im wondering if theres a safety in the ecu maybe that can make it pull throttle out to drop boost?

  10. Can confirm both compression ratios are the same. Some say the X has a forged crank and rods but i personally haven’t seen that. As for turbo swaps plenty have been swapped but personally id re flash it anyways as the stock maps arent great as they are. Mine has been re flashed and it makes a massive difference even with very very minor mods.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  11. One of my rears is noisy too. Rumbles and increases with speed but it has no play what so ever. And its 100% not diff or gearbox noise as they have been changed and the noise still remains. Seems common on these cars to be noisy and not actually move though. 

    • Like 1
  12. Hi guys putting up my rear mufflers for an EOI as im unsure if i want to change them at this stage. 

     

    Fugitsobu Wagolis sedan edition rear mufflers. These were designed to give the owner a nice notable sound difference over stock while still being a VERY suitable street muffler. These things honestly sound wicked they have the most unique sound ive heard for an EL header subaru. Literally everyone that hears it comments on how good it sounds! Have a nice deep idle and very nice deep tone with light to medium acceleration but once you get on it it has a nice bark! They also look great too! 

    In VERY good condition with little to no damage at all and with a pollish they look great too! 

     

    Prefer the sound and look of these over the worshiped “STi Genome” mufflers also! 

     

    2EF9ECC5-6DF3-4F4C-A233-B5AEDFB82962_zps451F3DC8-9EC3-4126-8AE1-865281AACC84_zps

     

    Price is $550 or swap for something that may be slightly louder! 

    • Like 1
  13. On 12/30/2018 at 8:54 PM, sobanoodle said:

    Pre-face spec.B had Bilsteins and alloy suspension components from factory (i.e control arms) unlike standard versions of GT and 3.0, 18" alloys obviously.

     

    nqdNrYe.jpg

     

    GT

    lyK21TN.jpg

     

    GT Spec.B

    3XDgtdH.jpg

     

     

    Facelift on the other hand all came with Bilsteins and alloy arms.

     

    NB: talking about JDM here

    Im not sure about the alloy arms part aye. I have an 05 GT and it had bilsteins optioned and also had alloy arms factory aswell. My old 03 had alloy arms aswell and a few that have come through the subie doo spares yard that arent spec b have had alloy arms fitted. Surely you cant tell me someone wanted alloy arms on it that badly that they swapped not just the fronts but the upper rear arm aswell? 

  14.  

    Car : 05 BL5 GT Legacy

    Tuned : Basic re flash for down pipe and air filter (still retains speed limiter)

    Fuel : Gull Force 10

    Tank: ~60L ish

    Fuel economy : 7.6L/100kmish long trips

    11L/100kmish town drving 

    Fuelly stats if known : 12.7km/l normal long trip have seen up to 13.4km/l nan driving and usually around 9km/l town driving. Averages 600km per tank town and city driving from full to the last 1/8th of the tank before the fuel light comes on(dont like running it lower). 

  15. On 12/9/2018 at 4:53 PM, Andy_Mac said:

    Does yours have the centre light in it? Have seen them with and without.

     

    Best bet is probably going to be an eBay ripoff badge unless you can get hold of someone’s VIN number and use that to search partsouq or similar sites.

     

    There’s an AUDM tbSTI with one.

    6788621428_4ecd8c707d_b.jpg

     

     

    Yup mine was exactly the same as that one! 

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