Boxer4turbro

Wheels are gone. Cheers Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

I'm moving house and have some 3rd gen legacy b4 wheels. They've been rubber sprayed black. Free to fellow Club Sub Brutha. The image is from google, I couldn't be stuffed going under the house. You get the picture though. Cheers Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Hey I'm keen as beans for that scenario. Better than the stock map it currently has. I think it massively over compensates from the increased airflow by running rich at the minute, throwing the timing. How mut munay it cost? Can pay in forms of little brown bottles if preferable. Thanks. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

North shore Auckland. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Hey fellas, I'm keen to catch up with someone about flashing my ecu. I've just had a new engine put in and it needs to be tuned. The car runs an aftermarket straight through pipe to aftermarket down pipes to the turbos. It has a 500hp fuel pump aswell. These are the only major modifications other than an hks filter. The car seems to lightly rattle and ping when trying to WOT so I'm going to go very easy until I can get a reliable good tune. Also I only ever use 98 octane. Keen for some contact. Cheers Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Found the problem. The main hose from the turbo to the intake on the intercooler. Some of those intercooler and hose clip bolts were a real c*nt due to the location. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

It doesn't make a difference hot or cold. It's not a jolt or hesitation. It's literally when the boost pressure builds the rpm suddenly drops as if being choked. It's either a vacuum problem or mixture/ratio problem. Spark or ignition usually stutters or aggressivaly jolts under load. Under hard boost there was a pop like a backfire into the intake manifold. Almost sounded like a diaphragm that couldn't hold the pressure. I'll check plugs and coils tonight to be sure. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Hey thanks man. Could it be an ignition issue when the car runs totally smooth while driving normally below boost pressure? Also in terms of the coil, it didn't fail over time and become problematic it just suddenly went pop. It doesn't seem to fit the symptoms. I should add that when I replaced the engine I had a wahlbro 255lph fuel pump installed. I'm not sure if this will help, it's the only modification to the fuel system. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Okay, so today I let someone else drive my car for the first time. I know I know that was my mistake. Any way here's the issue; It has no power. The engine still runs fine and the timing is ok. If you gradually let it rise under load to the primary turbo it will cut as if not getting enough fuel. If you keep the engine revs constant at this rev range (3200-3400rpm) it splutters and loses all idle until it resets itself back to 900rpm. When the driver was under full WOT and secondary turbo starting spooling there was a very strong pop. It sounded like a vacuum pop or a diaphragm/hose splitting. Possibly backfiring into the intake manifold (that type of sound) It definitely seems fuel related, as if not getting enough. Its starving. The engine now will ping or cut if any load is applied at that primary turbo level. Otherwise it drives and runs fine. Preliminary checks of hoses etc show no sign of splits or hoses not connected. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I don't really want to take it to a moneychanic just yet if I can help it. Thanks in advance. D Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Thrust bearing perhaps Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Lucky bugger. I'm at a roadblock Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Looking for SOLID advice on what is interchangeable for the primary and secondary turbos on my bh5. Literally a straight replacement no alterations. I'm hoping for reliability and a tad better pick up. Revision d Thanks guys. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

I have a defi gauge setup. The gauge is blinking twice intermittently which indicates a serial error. (Broken wire or short in the wiring somewhere). It's always worked but now it throws that code. I bought a second defi control unit and the gauge still flashes on that one aswell. I've opened the sensor/sender and there's no water ingress or dodgy soldering etc. It looks fine at face value, nothing obvious. My question is, does anyone have a good contact who can trace my wiring for me and or diagnose the problem? Find out for sure if I need to rewire or get a new sensor/ sensor unit. Most auto electrical shops don't do this as they can't compromise liability for damages. Any performance orientated shop that knows their gauges etc would be helpful. Auckland North Shore. Cheers D Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Bh5 legacy. E tune 2. Getting hard to find good ones modified tastefully. Credit to the era. Pick me pick me!

Hi guys, While coasting clutch in our out my legacy has a continuous rattle like stuffed cogs spinning. This is with clutch in or out. Also there's whine under load in the top end gearing. Is this likely to be my diff? There's no pulling around corners or shuddering etc. Gearbox seems ok but also seems more likely the case given the rattle and whine, however the gears are solid and have no trouble whilst driving or changing. I've attached a sound bite. Any thoughts are welcome fellas. Cheers https://s.amsu.ng/vhXQtbHB8avN