darkchief1
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Posts posted by darkchief1
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On 22/09/2023 at 1:55 PM, Gripless said:
The ‘eventually’ part says sell it.
If you don’t have the funds to do it now then sell before it becomes a money pit.
Also doesn’t manual conversion require cert etc now, was way easier before.
Thought as long as you don't touch the auto brake pedal, you can still swap and not need cert? Has something changed recently? I'm looking to get my Nissan manual swapped and was pretty sure I could get away with no cert, as there would be enough pedal clearance between brake and clutch without needing to swap the brake pedal from the factory auto one
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As above. Thomsen will always have my Subaru business, and I recommend them to others for general purpose things (WOFs, etc)
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Could be worth trying some Facebook groups (Legacy Loonies, or Subaru parts NZ, Subaru legacy Owners Club NZ etc), the for sale thread here can be a bit quiet. I've bought a bit off Legacy Loonies, pretty good group for that kinda thing! The owners club also has some Prova coilovers for real cheap at the moment too
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I'll defo pop along!
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21 hours ago, logan25 said:
ADM and JDM reading should be the same process.
I use a cheap VAGCOM Ftdi cable which is just a cheap version of tactrix, but for logging only. I also used tactrix cable in the past and it works fine.
Use rom raider software, make sure you download both ECU definition files, and also Logger definition files, and specify them in Romraider.
Open the logger section, and then select learning view, after 5 or so seconds should pop up a new window with all the data.
No need to bridge any pins, straight plug in and read data via romraider
Shot, thanks man! Will follow the RomRaider route since it's known to work. Only thought it was the older LV program as it looks super similar
21 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:
I think something went wrong with a windows driver that destroyed compatibility with the standalone LV program a few years ago as it seems to no longer work for almost everyone.
The one in the top menu’s of romraider logger is the next best wayCheers for confirming that Andy, glad to know I'm not missing a step here. I'll need to get my RomRaider functioning this weekend and give this another go
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5 hours ago, logan25 said:
You were correct, I did find a small split in the air duct prior to the throttle body. Used some glue and filler to get it air tight back up.Somewhat of an improvement in the air flow figures, thats after an ECU reset and 1 hour of mixed driving and idling.
Still baffles me with the IAM,
Are you just reading these with a Tactrix and Learning View software? I could pull my tune today but was unable to view my Learning View which was annoying. Learning View apparently wouldn't find my Tactrix cable to use to read, yet ECUFlash worked fine to read the tune. I assume you don't need to bridge any pins anywhere for a diagnostic mode before you can read anything aye? I've got a 2008 JDM GT, unsure if it's diff to the ADM 3.0R that you have for reading things, I'd think not but I could be wrong.
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1 minute ago, Andy_Mac said:
Through leak check is the way to go if it still has the factory MAF box and not a pod filter one. Those figures are reasonably bad so it could be the infamous split in the intake plenum just before the throttle body
What are "good" figures? Might pull mine soon just as a health check
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Title says it all, managed to suss the wiring side of it for now but struggling to find a good way to run the vac line for connecting the gauge up. I know to tee it off from the BPV, but unsure how to get my ~6ft of vac hose from the BPV to the drivers A pillar. Anyone got any good pictures and description of how they set theirs up?
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2 hours ago, newsuba said:
Afterwards couldn't resist a blast over TG.
😄
A very fast road but lacking in character.
Some great views though.
I'd bet you could clip along quite quick on the new TG with the right motivation!
2 hours ago, newsuba said:
Pan left a little bit and you'd have snapped me in the line of cars on the pavement haha
49 minutes ago, Plya5 said:Southwards was so busy on sunday, I waited about 50mins to get in. The line of traffic was about 1km long.
Damn, that's mad! I came around the last corner (blind corner) before the roundabout right near the entrance and had to stomp the brakes to not rear end someone so I could get in line. Was kinda sketchy that there was no "hidden queue" sign lol
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18 hours ago, Plya5 said:
Yeah heres hoping the weather stays good. The happy medium of a bit overcast but no rain. Also its the last one for the season so there should be a good turn out.
Is this the last meet of the season tomorrow?
On 21/04/2022 at 10:44 PM, Plya5 said:I don't know where people are coming from but thinking of meeting at the tawa countdown. For me anyway it's on the way (i'm coming from around the airport) and it's easy to get on/off of the motorway. I'll be there about 0930 and i'll wait for about 10 or 15mins then head on up if anyone wants to join.
I'll be at the meet in my Legacy, sadly don't think I'll be able to catch you at the Tawa Countdown before you leave. Will keep an eye out for your STI at the meet tho!
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Was it an aftermarket, uprated swaybar? The BL/BP is known to bend the mounts with an aftermarket RSB (without reinforcement), unsure if they actually break through.. car must have been pushed a lot
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Gave the car a cut, polish and wax - was my first time doing it. Didn't realize paint could feel like glass! Won't last long sitting on the street but that's fine. Got to installing a dechromed grille center piece I did as a while sorting the DIY mesh grille as I've run into fitment issues with the adaptive cruise control sensor and my mesh grille setup. May need to notch the mesh for it, unsure yet. Tried to tint the fogs while they were still in the car, not ideal but the end result looks a lot better. Will see how long it lasts and if I need to put more time into it sometime soon. Already starting to look more like how I want it to look.
Within the next couple months I'd like to:
- Get a black banner across the top of the front windscreen;
- Try seeing how dechroming the headlight sprayers would look;
- Get the mesh grille sorted and installed; and
- Install Aliexpress eyelids when they get here (if they are for the facelift like some of the pictures suggested).
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Stopped procrastinating and started doing. Got the headlights tidied up:
And finally made solid progress on the mesh grille I'm working on.
Tried painting the chrome a couple times, plastic drop sheet caught in the wind and hit the chrome trim when I wasn't looking, so ruined this time. Paint chips off super easy, just as it did the first time I tried to paint the trim and decided to re-do it, so ignore that. Will swap the chrome over to the mesh grille, and swap the grille in next weekend. Any tips on painting this bloody chrome and having it stick? Have tried a few layers of black gloss, then clear - no luck. This time was satin black, no clear, still no luck. It doesn't appear to be hardening well.
Next weekend I'll put the grille on, and will pick up a DA to give the car a full cut and polish - time permitting I'll add some clear yellow wrap to the fogs (also assuming that I can cut in a consistent circle). Want to get the car looking good for April Cars and Coffee at Southward Car Museum. Hope to see some of the ClubSub members there too!
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11 hours ago, Joker said:
a bit like an AT>MT swap : you 'can get away with it, and every step IS ok except playing with the Brake pedal
I've always heard that you can swap out the brake pedal during a AT/MT swap, but as soon as you cut the auto pedal, you get a fail? Unsure if this is correct or not, but what I've always heard
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29 minutes ago, McMatty said:
Any tips on doing a dual boot?
Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk
Should be able to find what you need here for instructions, and here for Win 10 ISO to download. Follow your nose (and the instructions) and you should be able to sort it out pretty easily. All first party support here, so relatively straight forward and simple to get up and going.
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On 31/12/2021 at 6:10 PM, McMatty said:
Have sent Mark a text but haven't had a response yet. Definitely do have the tune file you've sent me and borrowed a tactrix from a mate, couldn't get anything to work whether it's because I have a Mac book or I did something wrong I don't know. If you are able to help me out when you get your cable back it would be much appreciated.
Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk
With your macbook, did you dual boot Windows for using the applications required to read and flash roms? I had to set up a dual boot setup on my macbook to be able to read roms via tactrix, assume I could write but never got that far
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Yeah fully agree go with a legit Tactrix, don't waste your time with the knock off ones. I went through this a couple years ago, bought a knock off one and the dongle died during early setup process. Very glad it died then and not when I tried to read or flash the car. Ended up buying Andy_Mac's Taxtrix lol, used it fine on my last GT, and will use it on the next GT.
Also to note, in the picture of the Tactrix on TM, the "1234" serial is a dead giveaway it's fake. Went through that with Tactrix support too. The seller thought they had a legit version, at least that's what they said.
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Regarding to the oil supply issue, have you removed or checked for the banjo bolt filters? I *think* that there are a couple of spots you may want to check to make sure that they either a) have been removed or b) aren't blocked up by small debris (it's fine mesh). You will want to then remove them if you do have them. There are various conflicting reports of the later Gen 4 models only having one, or none. I *think* they should have at least one, if not two. Try start here and see how you get on.
There have been stories of turbos dying, people replacing them and then they die again due to the same issue - oil starvation. Oil starvation issue still persists due to the problem not being with the turbo, but in some other system that the turbo depends on (oil lubrication system).
You may be able to check oil pressure if you datalog the car, or definitely if you add a oil pressure sensor and gauge via the likes of a sandwich plate.
All of my information is coming from about a year ago when I had my GT. Fell out of the scene for a while so information gets a bit spotty. Hope this helps!
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I'd be keen to make an appearance! Wouldn't be in a Subie (yet) but would be good to meet some members of the club
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36 minutes ago, driftrex said:
Yea I just find it really hangs inbetween gears too long. Don't get me wrong it's still very quick power wise but if the dear change was tidied up it would be a heap better.
The Si drive controller was already in it when I got the car (first nz owner), it came with all the goodies from Japan, basically works as a boost controller mostly, gives me 4 boost settings, can also still use the normal si drive controls.
I haven't had it tuned, unsure if it was tuned in Japan or not, hard to know cause someone spent money on it there.
I've not owned a BH no, to be honest I hate the body shape of them, I've had a twin turbo BG5 manual, and a heavy modified GF8 manual. Nothing really compares to a manual, but I'd have to say with the auto trans in the BP been sorted out it would be a weapon. The motors are quick, and reliable as, mine has the VF45 turbo on it. I'd definitely go for a face-lift if you do go for a BP.
I really like the shape of them, much more sportier look than the boxy BH.
I'd love a full tune done, I've heard really good gains to be had on these.
I swear that I've seen people changing the transmission shift patterns, maybe changing some kind of pressure tables or something? so I guess it could be possible to do, if I'm remembering correctly. I had a bit of a google for the control unit, and it is apparently plug and play with Si drive cars, only needing the boost pressure fed into it. Now that could be a slick investment!
I was dead-set on a BG5 for the longest time, a twin-sunroof limited would be wicked. Saw a couple of the BG5 limited scoobs over the weekend, almost thought of it as a sign haha. Not a fan of not being able to tune them yourself like you can with the Rev D BH, and the BP of course. Also highly respect the GF8, I'm all about the wagons and by the sounds of it you are too haha. The face-lift looks so much sportier, curvier, but in a good way compared to the PFL. Why'd you switch to the auto BP after those two?
Ever looked into what Cryotune do with their e-tunes? For the price I reckon I'd be keen to give that a crack, after I got sick of the stock response that is!
28 minutes ago, iludez said:Having owned a few of both. I'd go for the BP, I have a soft spot for the looks of a bh but that's about it everything else is just better.
Definitely leaning towards the BP, as it seem like they are more reliable car and given I can only have 1 car in the city, I don't have the luxury of having my car down or parked off the street for weeks waiting until I can afford to fix any issues. For some reason I've gotten it in my head that soon after I got a BH I'd spin a bearing and that'd be it, rip my only vehicle.
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On 22/05/2020 at 12:08 PM, driftrex said:
I have a face-lift BP, it's auto and I have to admit I don't like the way it shifts too slow even using paddles and always wants to get to high gear asap. I always drive it in sport sharp because of this.
I do have a Blitz Si drive controller which gives me multiple boost settings and changes things a little. I run 1 bar daily.
My car has a full stainless HKS exhaust as well. I do miss that subbie rumble of the exhaust a bit.
You can get parts I've seen online for trans that they say makes it shift like DGS trans which would be so awesome.
I have spoken to Subaru here in Hamilton about an ecu update but I have to book it in before they will even tell me if there's an update for it. I was quoted around the $100 mark.
I prefer definitely prefer them over BH legacys, I do have the dreaded cracked dash in mine though but it had enough goodies on it for me to look past that.
Ah, really? I hate how my 02' Galant shifts so slow, gets to me big time sometimes haha. I mean I wouldn't expect DSG speeds from the GT but I'd still like it to be quick. The Blitz Si drive controller I did not know about. Would you recommend something like this? I'm also gathering you've had it tuned?
I'd defs get some kind of exhaust, most likely axle-back, maybe some blasties or something silly haha. Real shame the USDM GTs got the UEL headers and we didn't.
Bit of a shame you have to pay that much for a potential no at the end of it, but if you do end up going for it, do keep me in the loop. I feel like I'll be looking around for a bit, saving so I can throw more cash at it.
Have you had a BH yourself? If it was manual, how did you find going to an auto BP?
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On 5/05/2020 at 7:52 PM, thewabbit1 said:
Think thats it, i haven't found any more
Sweet, wasn't just me missing things haha
On 8/05/2020 at 5:57 PM, krutpong said:Id recommend Gen 4, just as everything about it is just better (more reliable?, better interior, lighter, more modern etc). Idk about the auto tho as I got the manual but id imagine they are still pretty fun to drive. living in welly as well, sometime i wish i had save some money and got the auto but then again the thought get superseeded pretty quick when im boosting through all 6 gears
Yeah I'd like the convinience for the city but getting out of the city I'd be worried the auto would get a bit boring after 15 - 20 minutes, even with over double the HP of my current car on tap
On 9/05/2020 at 11:53 AM, boon said:Honestly the third gen interior feels more solid. The 4th Gen (can we start calling them by their chassis designation? I assume we're talking BP/BL and BH/BE?) is way more plasticy, and has issues like the dashes cracking like a crazy thing, especially if imported from somewhere that got properly cold like the northern end of Japan.
Setting that aside, the BP/BL is a way, way better car. Especially if you get a somewhat "specced" one with the leather or part leather interior... I'm assuming they all come with Bilsteins and the simply enormous front brakes?
The 5EAT kinda sucks in stock form, but if you get the firmware update from Subaru and drive it in "Sport" then it's a bit better.
To me, the interior of the BH seems more "driver focused" for some reason, when it really isn't when comparing the two, not sure why.
Logically the BP seems the way to go, with the oil filters in the banjo bolts being one of the biggest problems for the engine, which isn't actually a big problem in the scheme of things.
As for trim level, no clue what I'd get. The prices for the BP seem all over the place to me based on what I've seen, so it seems like a lot could be fair game.
That firmware update from Subaru, is that free or does one have to pay for it? And I've heard of "tuning" the trans, which would (based off of what I've read) just be changing line pressures so that the trans knows when to shift a bit better based on current torque and it might have been throttle position? Can't quite remember, and I haven't looked into it too much either. Sadly it's not tuning like different boost levels on different modes of the Si-Drive system - that'd be sick!
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7 hours ago, thewabbit1 said:
have a browse of some of these http://pc.cd/P91rtalKHave got that on a portable hard drive somewhere, on my google drive (I think) and on both my Mac and Windows partitions on my Macbook haha. Thanks for linking it though, now I know a place on the forums I can go straight to for them, as opposed to digging through Marky's OG post.
Are there any more tunes lying around for them? Or is this the whole collection? I don't think I've seen any others in my forum hunts
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Got me a tactrix and for the Rev D I know there are tunes lurking around, plus it would be pretty cool to actually learn and understand what my car is doing with it's tune if I was to start mucking with it myself.
I know there are tuners who do e-tunes for the Gen 4, Cryotune is a name I've seen around a bit, and their tunes are actually pretty reasonable for what you get from them so it would be the cost range of of free to a few hundred to get a tune sorted, so that isn't much of a price factor.
I know the smart move is to get the Gen 4, but something about the Gen 3 just keeps grabbing at me haha
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Rod/Piston upgrade without supporting mods?
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
I'd totally agree with what boon has said. I'd likely steer clear of what you are wanting to do regarding rebuild and address at the time. You'd spend a lot of time (and money if you make a mistake) just to get it to a position where you wanna do the basics to the platform. You'd wanna go big or go home if you're talking ripping into the engine and not just swapping with a donor engine.
If it were me with 180ks on it, I'd just do the bolt-ons like you have suggested and keep up with services (plus the tune). Keeping on-top of maintenance plus a good tune will give you the best chance on these cars.
The cars really wake up with the downpipe, exhaust, fuel pump, 3 port and a tune. I've done exactly that to mine, plus some handling mods, and it's such a nice car to drive compared to stock. Only thing I wish I could do would be coilovers instead of lowering springs but I cbf with a cert or swapping them out for wofs lol