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darkchief1

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Everything posted by darkchief1

  1. Hey all, I've been debating this with myself over the past few months now and I keep flipping on what I would want, so I'm looking for some opinions on the gens (compared if possible). By Gen 3 Legacy, this would be a Rev. D GTB Manual, and the Gen 4 would be an auto (pref face-lift) GT. This may sound a bit weird comparing an auto a manual in different gens, but I can't justify the manual Gen 4 prices due to how infrequently I'd use the car, but when I want to use it, I want the fun of a turbo. This car would definitely weekend driver, I don't drive to work so I don't have to worry about a daily commute. I know the fuel economy of the Gen 4s are a lot better than the 3s, but I also know that the 3s have a the rumble due to the UELs that the 4s don't have, and by gosh who doesn't love the boxer rumble. I know that the Gen 3s are known to spin bearings and I'd get into sorting out the tune ASAP, and living in Welly the thought of throwing myself into the deep end with a manual when I've only driven manual a handful of times is a bit scary, but I'm up to the challenge. I would worry that the fun of a new car would wear off a bit quicker if it was an auto, but I wouldn't worry about traffic lights on hills or trying to park in the city because autos are basically cheating in the city lol. So, what would everyone's thoughts be on the comfort for long-haul trips, short quick rips through twisties, general fit and finish of the interior etc of the two? Thanks!
  2. Hey all, Am still on the hunt for a manual BH5 and I'm looking at one, but it needs the big service (cambelt, w/pump and tensioners). I was wondering about how much would I be looking at to have this done? Any change from 1k or am I thinking a bit too low? At the moment I'm trying to figure if I can fit the car and the job into my budget and into an offer that they would accept, and figured while I waited to hear back from a shop I would see what everyone else has paid for theirs. Work would be done in Tauranga, so any recommendations for shops there would be good also!
  3. That would be great! How much are you wanting for it??
  4. Nah sadly this was second hand. I didn't realise it was (probably) fake either which is a bit annoying, as I was under the assumption that it was legitimate. Will try it on my car tonight and see what happens. If it can still somehow work with the computer while plugged into the car then that will be fine I guess
  5. I grabbed it off TradeMe and it came with setup DVDs, but I thought to grab the latest drivers and software as one should. The fact it isn't detected by the computer anymore is a bit of a worry, regardless of light status. I will test it after work on my car to see if it gets power at all because I watched a video last night about how it didn't get power from a computer but did when connected to a car, so maybe the same thing will happen to my car. Guy I bought it off said no offers for a refund when I was asking questions on the auction, so I am not sure if I can get a refund or not.
  6. I recently purchased what I assumed to be a Tactrix 2.0, but upon further research it appears as if it may be a fake. On the barcode for the serial it has "1234", not a legit serial code. Anyways, I plugged it in to my macbook at home and lights turned on on the device, yay. Took it to work to see what windows sees and it saw it straight away as a COM port, double yay. I installed ECUFlash and it installed the driver required for the Tactrix 2.0, and I saw it change in device manager from COM to some more specific device which was good. I decided to unplug it and replug it in just to make sure it was working fine, and now the red, blue and yellow lights don't turn on and it doesn't appear in device manager. I have tried it on another computer and have also tried it on another Mac. Did I fry it or something? Did those drivers that installed with ECUFlash do something because it wasn't a legitimate Tactrix? Should I go back to the seller and see what he says? Really annoyed that I am potentially out a bit of money and any help would be appriciated!
  7. Note to self: grab some octane booster and keep it in the boot for a rainy day. Is stuff like that shifter worth buying or not really?
  8. For the beginning as long as the engine doesn't ping on 95 then I will be happy. Does octane booster do much to 95? How does one data log with the Tactrix or a similar item? Is that just plug in and plug the device into a laptop with some kind of software? I just purchased a Tactrix 2.0 so now I can do stuff! Has anyone had any experience with the short shifters from trademe for the BH? https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/body-kits-mouldings/listing-2320411400.htm?rsqid=5239ebce92bd47ae8b25e3a982554558-002 The likes of this. Are they any good?
  9. Yeah I was thinking one of the NZKW ones, saw them last night and looked like they would go alright if it was a good part to upgrade. Yeah the noise was a potential concern for me, but it can't hurt to try it out. Good to know with the AA inspection actually. I am Wellington based, and the car is in Palmy. Is there anywhere around that you would recommend for this to be done? I would love actual PSI readings, not just "Yes, there is compression" lol. Oh that is like 1/3 the price of the one I am looking at at the moment, and it would only have to work for one session so if my one falls through I will get onto one of them. Would like to have it for data logging in the future though. Hey that would be legendary if I could get a hand with the whole process! Would be pretty tough to tackle solo, and then the map portion would be scary because I have no clue what to do.
  10. This is great to hear. I wanted to get a compression test done due to the kms, and now I will definately get it done if I look further into this car. I would get it run through the AA pre purchase inspection, and maybe have a shop look over it, along with a test drive of course. I am looking into getting the Tactrix 2.0 cable so that I can have the option to get a Wi-Fi tune done, or even load the tunes that Marky has posted somewhere on the forum if they are still recommended as a better-than-stock tune option. Would love some timing pulled just to be safe at this stage, can't quite afford a full on tune. These are definately what I am after if I am not spending big on power mods. Thanks for these, on the to-do list for when I get a wagon they go! Would doing the pitch stop be worth it as well?
  11. I did read a bit about this, and I do intend to not run anything besides the stock BOV. I did just find out that the car I am looking at has been run on 91 quite a bit recently, could this be a big problem? The front strut would be kind of for looks, but the rear would be good to attach a sub to I figured. I do know that these cars respond well to a rear swaybar upgrade, so I was thinking a whiteline 22mm sometime early on. I want to do a short shifter kit if I can find one, and am figuring that would tighten up shifter feel because it should come with new bushings, and the shorter throw overall. I know I don't want a metal shift knob, didn't actually think about a weighted one but that could be a good idea. What would be a go-to list for yourself when you had a relatively stock, new-to-you car aimed at improving driver feel?
  12. Didn't really know about the secondary turbo issues, thanks for the heads up on that one. Would have done some redline testing anyways, because I feel that you should do that when looking at a new car anyways. Didn't really think about a 91 tune actually, wonder how much power they lose when tuned for different octane ratings. You don't happen to know anyone around my region who could do road tuning when the time comes for myself do you?
  13. Hey all, I am looking at getting a BH5 GTB sometime soon but I have some questions regarding issues with the car, or just things to look out for that could end up costing me in the future. I am only looking at the Rev. D for the ECU tuning ability, because why not aim for the best? I have found an E-Tune (Rev. D) that I am looking into, but I hear the E-Tune has issues running on anything less than even 98? Is this true? The following is a list of things that I know I should look for, but am wanting to know about as many things as possible, especially with the BH5. Does it have much of a service history? How often has the oil been changed? How long have you owned the car for and roughly how many kms have you put on the car? What fuel are you running in the car? When was the clutch done? Have the diff fluids been replaced? Have any mods been done to the car that you know of? Any check engine lights ever? Have the brakes been done recently? (pads and or rotors) Any engine knock at all? Has the boost been changed at all or has the car been tuned? Does it burn or consume any fluid(s) at all? Any leaks? Does it leak anything? Oil, coolant, diff fluids etc Does it consume any fluids? Have any head or valve cover gaskets been done? When were the spark plugs last changed? Are there any other questions that I should ask in general, or any BH5 specific ones that I should ask? I have a small list of mods that I would also like to do, and am wondering if they are the worthwhile mods to do to a BH5. I want to do the following: Tune Whiteline rear sway bar Front and rear strut tower bars (where do I get a rear for these cars?) FMIC Stereo / Sub Axle-back exhaust 4 / 2 pot brake upgrade Finally, is there anyone around the Wellington / Manawatu-Wanganui region that could road tune a BH5 on 95 for me? This will be a must when I get the car, as I don't want to risk not being able to put 98 in it because not everywhere I would want to go would have 98 on tap. Thanks!
  14. I wouldn't need the bumper straight away so it would just be something to keep an eye out for, more important bits to get first me thinks. Had a google last night and found the plastic bits and the centre section for sale, but postage included it was 6-800 NZD, no bumper included which was eye-watering. Good to know I could buy those parts if required though.
  15. Oh no way, there actually is. My TM filters missed this because its an auto and I want the manual. That looks pretty good, but it's interesting that they don't know its not factory. Yeah those front left and right bumper extensions look good, and the spotties being the kinda winged shape where they taper up to a point looks great. Seeing the black version I do like the white front end better, it shows the extensions better. If I were to get one without trying for the RSK front end, I would be happy with a black because I do love a fully blacked out car.
  16. Thanks for the welcome! Yeah I only want the Rev D, and the RSK models that I have seen are Rev D, so if I was to find the Rev D RSK front bumper I could just bolt it on in theory? I do want the Rev D due to the ECU tuning, and the apparent less issues with the VOD. Also want the bigger turbskis 😎
  17. Hi all, New to the forums, but am slowly starting to piece together a list of parts and what to keep an eye out for when I go BH5 GTB hunting. I am dead set on one, and am aiming to have one by the end of the year. Based on combing the available forum posts I have got a solid list of parts and things to look for, but I haven't found much on this topic. Now, I don't particularly love how the front bumper of the BH5, but the BE5 B4 RSK front bumper looks very nice, especially in white. It's something about those spotties and the front valance / things below the spotties. Is it a simple bolt on job or are the dimensions of the BH and BE different to the point where this couldn't work? Thanks in advance!
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