Jump to content
Please check your junk folder for registration emails ×

RS.YES

Auckland Member
  • Posts

    199
  • Joined

Posts posted by RS.YES

  1. Hey guys, umm I've got a set of drift-tek rims left behind by a mate for the nissan. I was wondering if these would happily go on to my BC5? I think it's 5x100 but they do look a bit wide. Would it be wrong to do that considering the offset and everything else are different between nissan and subaru?

  2. Ohh tru lmao. All I know is to weld int. wastegate shut and pick a spot on up-pipe for wastegate then another pipe from wastegate to downpipe. But it kinda sounded like you were saying weld the wastegate to the down-pipe just after the turbo? I'm confused, or I just confused myself.....

    But how would it sound if you did weld up the internal wastegate open and with the external wastegate welded up to the up-pipe? Must be very loud

  3. Is it easy to get to that pin with a punch? This will be my 1st attempt at anything like this, i've always thought that c.v joints are hard to replace cause the fear of breaking something, this looks simple but a little patience helps and goes a long way. Whats a cleaning agent i can use to clean the c.v if its still good to use, degreaser should do the trick just fine right but a mate was telling me petrol is a good cleaning agent? True?

  4.  wrx_lou said:

    Buy yourself some tack welds and use them to hold your factory wastgate open. install the wastegate on your down pipe and leave atmo venting for that super cool look at me sound.

    hmmm....wonder what that would sound like?......illegal......no thanks

  5. Hey guys since we're on the topic of C.V's, whats actually holding the inncer C.V joint to the gearbox? I look at the inner C.V's and I see a green cover and the boots attached to it....All four front boots are ripped and I wanna change them myself, Mechanics these days are dodgy as. I also need a wheel alignment too as I've just put in new struts w/ dobi springs.

  6.  GNEDEF said:

    boost cuts happy to help u....however. u will need to get a whole drilled into the downpipe and send it along with your pipe and 1 flange with threading to him...might cost a bit.

    someone in auckland should be able to help. or if not...measure it up urself and off you go to the metal fabricators. i know of a pretty talented guy in penrose. havnt got his name card on me at work. PM if u wish and i will send details to u after work

    hey could i get his details from you? I'll be getting a wastegate in the near future.

  7.  driftrex']

    [quote name='danz-rs said:

    sweet which would be better the downpipe or the manifold???

    /quote]

    if you mean where to plumb the wastegate into, then it must be in the manifold pre-turbo, in the downpipe it wont be able to control boost at all.

    Would it be better to weld the wastegate to the up-pipe or the manifold/headers. A workmate had a WRX and it was welded just before the up-pipe so pretty much on the headers, it sounded like it was sick as in coughing!!!

  8.  BC5RA said:

    16psi is about the limit for a VF8 I've seen them run at up to 18psi but you would be just pushing hot air.

    Damn my one stops at 0.7bar of boost (VF8) it'll go down after 5000rpm to about 0.5. But 2nd gear pull - I LOVE IT!!! Would dying plugs play a part in that too? wanting to do a change but i'm after platinum/iridium plugs. My wastegate actuator and the rod bit are a bit rusted too, would that do anything?

  9. I was thinking I might need a new washers but had a look and everything seemed sweet no fluid bursting out so I'll bleed 'em in the morning. Thanks for the info thought it'd be something simple as to just bleed the system hahaha what a noob, shows I wasn't paying attention in class when we had the session about brakes!! Cheers guys

  10. Hey Guys & Girls,

    Well I've just finished putting in rear struts & springs from a V3 STI, had a hard time with the bracket on the struts that were in there for the brake hose to be secure and everything. Hacked away at the side of that bracket to get the brake hose free and also taking out the 14mm bolt and banjo fitting at the back of the calliper where the piston is so I could maneuver the strut in a position so I could hack away. Once done, put everything back together, clips, bolts, hoses, wheels, ecetera.....

    Once everything all done up, started the car and heated up for a while. Car was warm and went to drive off and then put my foot on the brake pedal and then * :o what the fark!? ???* - pedal went to the floor had to use the e-brake. Sh*t I was freaking out :o cause car wouldn't stop, so checked the fluid, it was bout half way so topped up with more fluid, still same problem.

    Now 'm thinking that disconnecting banjo fitting & hoses may have done something, At the time when disconnecting the hose, about 10mls of fluid oozed either from the piston or the abs sensor ring but don't think any got on the disc cause it was dripping from the brake's shield. It's either air entered through the hoses and/or the abs sensor ring(???) or whatever has stuffed up blah blah. But this is the first and I had no other way of getting the brake hose free unless I took that bolt out without ripping or pulling out the brake lines.

    Can anyone shed some light for me because I'm stuck. Will bleed the fluid and any air that might have entered through the bleed valve but would appreciate some help from fellow CS members.

    Cheers guys!!

×
×
  • Create New...