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RS.YES

Auckland Member
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Posts posted by RS.YES

  1. Having a good think about it I'm guessin the previous owner probably ditched the water setup n kept the case to keep air cooled. So it looks like an WAIC but really air-to-air TMIC, obviously WAIC is better!! Anyone here know how to install one if I were to buy funkytowns kit?

  2.  boostin']

    [quote name='RS.YES said:

    Does anyone have a pic of their WAIC setup? My setup a bit weird and it seems like it's an air-to-air inside the intercooler case rather than water-to-air?

    /quote]

    Have you tried filling it with water??

    Nope. There's a white canister that looks like those old carby motor fuel filters, one hose is going to the top of the TMIC case and the other has been cut after 30cm of hose ???.

    Hey funkytown have you got a pic of the whole setup? How much for your unit? To be honest I'm not on the lookout for the unit cause I would have no clue on how to put it in and my engine running sweet for now love cruising it n then boost here and there!! ;D

  3.  driftrex']

    [quote name='RS.YES said:

    Sorry for the intrusion (gtlegacy00) but seeing as I'm wanting to do the same service for transmission/gearbox & diff thought I might pop another question. What fluid should I use for a 1991 Subaru Legacy RS? and also for rear diff where would I find the bleed & fill valve/bolt? Probably bleed valve on bottom and fill valve on the side of the housing...am I right?? Sorry guys just don't wanna fork out alot of money for a mechanic when I can actually do it myself, cheers.

    /quote]

    im a bit of an oil specialist so i'll answer this one too.

    the factory spec oil you want to use for your legacy is a fully synthetic GL-5 rated 75w90, in both manual gearbox and rear diff, it will take the same quantities i have listed above.

    drain and fill plugs for rear diff are on the rear cover of the diff housing, once you get under you will see exactly what i mean.

    drain for the gearbox is at the front of the gearbox pointing down towards the road (22mm bolt), and the way you fill it is through the gearbox dipstick tube which is on drivers side beside where your turbo sits, take your time pouring the oil down the tube as it will easily overflow if your going to fast.

    hope that helps you mate.

    Cheers driftrex. Will b doing it when I get cash money next week.

  4. Sorry for the intrusion (gtlegacy00) but seeing as I'm wanting to do the same service for transmission/gearbox & diff thought I might pop another question. What fluid should I use for a 1991 Subaru Legacy RS? and also for rear diff where would I find the bleed & fill valve/bolt? Probably bleed valve on bottom and fill valve on the side of the housing...am I right?? Sorry guys just don't wanna fork out alot of money for a mechanic when I can actually do it myself, cheers.

  5. Just wanna know what the stud pattern is and also the offset?

    5x100 or 5x114.3 PCD? and also the offset. Read on a TM listing that subies have higher offset 48-55p something like that I think.

    Is this true and also I'm thinking of getting either one of these:

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=272802586&permanent=0

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=272687098

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=272351382

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=272736921

    The 2nd & 3rd link are Honda mags but will knock the 'H' caps outta of 'em!!

    Thanks guys.

  6. Hey guys, just found it was the fuel pump. Had to wait this to get it cause payroll lady stuffed my money up and I got under-payed. Crappy stock one just died out that time it happened. Got the walbro pump, put it in then turned on an could hear it pumpin' but stink thing have to put a new hose for the fuel delivery cos it split probably cos I used my massive as pliers to get the thing off and put little splits n 'em(nice one!! :-\).

    But thanks guys for all your help ;D :) ;D, hopefully it can start with the starter's brushes(i think) are worn out, or should I get a 2nd hand starter to be safe ????

  7. Hey guys I'm no electrician but I have a multimeter and was wondering if you guys could give me steps to check the voltage at fuel pump or the wiring? I am a complete a blonde when it comes to checking the electrics for power, all I know is the battery.

  8.  boostin']

    [quote name='dubbedup said:

    it should be right beside the window washer resivoir (sp)

    /quote]

    Would that be the big black can with in and purge/out on the top with two hoses??

    yes

    That sounds more like the carbon cannister to me....

    I think I mentioned the wrong thing, that's the other black plastic cannister by the abs unit, right? Found the fuel filter, actually had in/out on the top. Sorry guys, had been staring at the fuel filter can the whole time looking at the engine bay. Classic

  9.  log1call said:

    The fuel pump will only pump for about a second when you first turn the key on, so you need to have someone else do that for you while you see how much fuel comes out. The fuel also needs quite a bit of pressure so after you have checked there is fuel coming out check it again with our thumb over the hose and make sure there is pressure there.

    The alternator does not run the ignition, the alternator charges the battery and the battery supplies power for the ignition.

    The trouble codes won't detect a fuel problem although it's a wonder you haven't got crank or cam codes after all the cranking. Don't worry about it though, it's probaly all normal. If you want to check the trouble codes are working pull a sensor off and see that it's code gets set after an attempt at starting with it off.

    I thought so about the alternator. But taking in anything at the moment. So it won't be the alternator or the battery. Forgot to mention in last post that I had a multimeter and checked the battery which was reading 12.43v when car was off, and when I went to crank engine it dropped to 10v which is normal(i think).

    Fuel didn't even come out of the line, got my partner to hold the bottle and check for any gas and absolutely nothing and so with that there would be no pressure too. I will definitely get a fuel pump and hopefully fingers-crossed it would go. Should've mentioned this the first time I had started this forum, but before the problem happened the gas needle was just under the quarter line and I boosted it just for fun on 2nd gear but not rape the car completely. After that I looked at the gas because I was on my way to the gas station and noticed the gas light come on which was a bit weird. Got to the gas station put in $20, car started first go, back on the road and car started jerking/surging.

    Could you tell one sensor that's easy to get to that I can pull off to check for that error code?

  10.  THUNDA said:

    Drained battery from cranking too much when it wont start

    Could be an alternator but not likely (in my opinion)

    Charge the battery and see if the car will turn on, if it does it may be your alternator, as when the car is running the car uses energy created by the alternator to create a spark though coils, battery doesnt supply power to coils, instead the battery is only used to crank the starter and supply a small voltage to the alternator to get it to do its job.

    I would say fuel pump tbh or blocked fuel filter? fuel filter has more of a gradual process to it though, not an al of a sudden blockage, but ya never know :)

    Got back to car and cranked engine hoping it would start. NOTHING!

    But thing was it sorta jerk'd like it was gonna start, that was after I gave the top of the fuel pump some good taps. 4th time tryna crank just went back to how it was. But are you serious didn't know it was always alternator that gives the spark to plugs to start car(lean something new everyday). Checked fuel line at the filter, and no fuel pumped out when I cranked car over so will definitely be fuel pump unless there's blockage in the fuel line but unlikely it would!?

    Should get a new battery and alternator at the same time. Fuel filter not blocked as fuel came out the other pipe, but might as well get a new filter, will get these things sorted in the next week or two. CEL just kept blinking constantly, no long or short flashes. When I saw that I was confused cause it would've at least given me a heads up on what could've been the problem.

    Please tell me it's the fuel pump guys!! Public transport sometimes sucks

  11.  sickmatesick said:

    connect the two small black plugs then turn key to ON and the check engine light should flash constantly if nothing is wrong.

    If something is wrong long flash=ten and short flashes=one then check them on the list

    Cheers, check it out 2moro. Missin' my car right now

  12.  kamineko']

    yep this is a big one, i'm going to take pics and make a detailed how-to that can be followed by anyone :)

    in the mean time check out this page... http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~ccgrant/celcheck.htm

    not finished yet sorry

    [table]

    [tr][td]CEL [/td][td]Item [/td][td]Diagnosis [/td][td]Fail-safe operation[/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]11[/td][td]Crankshaft position sensor[/td][td]Irregular signal received[/td][td]-[/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]12[/td][td]Starter switch[/td][td]Abnormal signal emitted from switch[/td][td]Turns starter sw signal to off[/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]13[/td][td]Camshaft position sensor[/td][td]Irregular signal received[/td][td]-[/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]21[/td][td]Engine coolant temp sensor[/td][td]Abnormal signal emitted[/td][td]ECU adopts a set temp. Radiator fans ON[/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]22[/td][td]Knock Sensor[/td][td]Abnormal voltage emitted[/td][td]Sets regular fuel map, retards ignition by 5degrees[/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]23[/td][td]Mass air flow sensor (AFM)[/td][td]Abnormal voltage emitted[/td][td]Fuel map set by revs and throttle[/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]24[/td][td]Idle air control solenoid[/td][td]Valve inoperative[/td][td]adjusts idle via fuel set by revs, vehicle speed & throttle[/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]31[/td][td]Idle switch (EJ20G)[/td][td]Abnormal voltage emitted[/td][td]ECU adopts a set throttle position value[/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]32[/td][td]Oxygen sensor[/td][td]Inoperative[/td][td]-[/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]33[/td][td]Vehicle speed sensor 2[/td][td]Abnormal voltage entered[/td][td]ECU adopts a set value[/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]38[/td][td]Torque control signal (AT)[/td][td]Abnormal signal from TCM[/td][td]-[/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]42[/td][td]Idle switch[/td][td]Abnormal signal from TPS Idle switch[/td][td]?[/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]44[/td][td]Wastegate control solenoid[/td][td]Solenoid inoperative[/td][td]Fuelcut when WOT at heavy load[/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]45[/td][td]Pressure sensor /

    Pressure exchange solenoid[/td][td]Abnormal signal from pressure sensor or

    pressure exchange solenoid inoperative[/td][td]Fuelcut when WOT at heavy load[/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]51[/td][td]Neutral switch (MT)[/td][td]Abnormal signal from switch[/td][td]-[/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]51[/td][td]Park/Neutral position switch (AT)[/td][td]Abnormal signal from inhibitor switch[/td][td]-[/td]

    [/tr]

    [tr][td]53[/td][td]Immobiliser (if equip)[/td][td]Faulty Immobiliser system[/td][td]-[/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]61[/td][td]Inhalation valve solenoid[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]62[/td][td]Exhaust valve solenoid (vacuum)[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]63[/td][td]Boost pressure relief valve solenoid[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]64[/td][td]Secondary waste gate solenoid[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]65[/td][td]Differential pressure sensor[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]66[/td][td]Sequential twin turbo system[/td][td]Somethings broke au![/td][td]runs like poos[/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]67[/td][td]Exhaust valve solenoid (+ve pressure)[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr]

    [tr][td]68[/td][td]Exhaust valve duty solenoid[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr]

    [/table]

    some other downloadable stuff, cheers log1call

    [quote name='log1call said:

    With reference to poster one's helpful information... There are two pdf documents here...

    url]http://cid-4ca3c3459aaa7f7f.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/.Public

    about the trouble codes, what the criteria are for them to be set and to be cleared by the ecu to be specific. Good reading if you want to be sure to make a correct diagnosis. Perhaps they could be added to the data file.

    Is this for all Subbie's? Including 91 RS?

  13. Also where would I find the fuel filter? Had a good look in the engine bay couldn't see it, unless subbie filters are different? If anyone could show me a pic, lmao I'm a amo with subbies. Was and still a Honda fan, before the boost thought I'd drive something different!! Cheers guys

  14. Hey guys, I disconnected the battery last night thought it might help. Kinda did the trick for the starter cause it turns but doesn't start car. But when gave it a crank it gave a lil' pop(got my hopes up for a bit ;D :'() but didn't start so I've left it.

    I'm gonna check out the engine side fuel lines to see if any fuel comes out when I crank it. Hopefully it doesn't so I know that there's a blockage or the fuel pump ain't goin' and not something else, but yeah if no success then i'll check the CEL.

    Just finished work at the V4&Rotary nationals. Was guttered to see all the mint cars and couldn't take my Subbie. Had to take the bro's beat-up honda saber, lols. Thanks for the help guys, I'm hoping that I can get this problem outta the way so I can get back to the nice deep sound of SUBARU!!

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