nickch
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Posts posted by nickch
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I did give them a good wipe down with brake cleaner.
The CL RC6 pads are renowned for being noisy, but didn\'t expect them to squeal like a truck!
Sounds similar to this:
[quote name='Ninja 8) said:
+1 for price of rotors and who did u get them from??? They look the biz
Racebrakes
Was going to get replacement rotors to go on the DBA5000 alloy hats I had on before, but they sold their last set, and ETA for order was > 1 month.
Settled for DBA4000 1-pc T3 at $264 + GST each.
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Got new rotors and pads fitted today
Now my screams like a wailing banshee when it stops.. =(
Need some anti squeal...
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have you got any info the 2k cup, im guessing that its just NI Based
Yeah.. from the looks, NI based only..
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Maybe like this?
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check the hoses around the wastegate for leaks?
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why\'d you do it in yours then?
/quote]
It wasn\'t a wall, it was a system I could throw in and out in about an hour. That\'s why it only did 150.x
I was more or less working for a car audio shop at the time so I could just rock up whenever I felt like it and swap gear around.
The batteries lay on their sides in the rear footwells. The (big) amp went on the front of the box, and I had a big tangle of 0 gauge I could just hook up really fast. It only went in there for competitions, I wasn\'t driving it around on a daily basis like that, because:
-It made the car handle and generally drive like a pile of s***
-It turned a generally quite practical wagon into a 2-seater
-It was so damn loud, even at 150-odd, that it was pointless. You can\'t drive around playing music at 150 - it shakes your car to pieces (the mirrors were completely useless and the indicators/wipers/stuff would turn on and off at random) plus there\'s the things it actually does to your body. At the right frequencies it would vibrate your eyes so hard you couldn\'t see properly. At low frequencies it starts to affect your breathing because of the rapid changes in pressure on your chest. It starts making you feel queasy after a couple of minutes. Then there\'s the final fact that even with all your windows up, a car that loud carries about 4 blocks and makes you look like a complete and utter bothering penis to anyone nearby. You know when people go gating down suburban streets because they think they look cool? Really loud bass is pretty much the same thing.
This last point is more or less why I don\'t do big audio any more.
Ditto!
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Pics of transmission crossmember bushes and transmission mount.
Couldn\'t get the 14mm bolts back to torque spec (70Nm) as they felt like it was borderline shearing!
Ended up lowered the torque on those for the others.
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Changed transmission crossmember bushes and installed a group N transmission mount.
I could get used to the whine.
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just topped it up a little to get it just the slightest over the top hole. not sure it made much of a difference. bought a couple bottles of magnatec went on sale few weeks ago so topping up was no problem.
any advantage using castrol edge 5-30 over magnatec 10w-40. i see repco selling castrol edge for $55 for 5l
Edge is definitely the way to go as hijacka said, fully synthetic vs semi.
Yeah.. I capitalized on that deal.
Just as my oil change was due too!
It was like $55 bux down from $85..
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Cleared things up a bit too! I was intending to overfill a wee bit in prep for MM14, but wasn\'t sure how much more I could go.
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It\'s well documented and easy with a soldering iron!
[quote name='kwi_fozze said:
Well docummented that the sump bolts on the transmission are done up stupidly tight... recently done mine, needed my 1m breaker bar on the end of the socket lol
It facing downwards made it a 2 man job.
One person to hold the socket in place, another needed to kick the end of the breaker bar!
The rear diff was easier, just hung the breaker bar and used a jack to break it loose.
Have them all back to proper torque as per shop manual. Hopefully it won\'t have the same problem in future!
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Spent the weekend:
* Changed motor oil + oil filter
* Changed rear diff and transmission fluid (yuck.. can\'t ever get the smell out of the garage)
* Changed spark plugs
* Installed solid front sway bar end links
Annoyances, workshops who use rattle guns torqued too high to do up drain plugs..
almost wrecked my back trying to get it off even with a 350mm breaker bar.
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That\'s what i thought. Seemed weird, guess it kinda makes sense if you were maxing the sub out the entire time. Would distortion go up closer to the amps max maybe? Like give it a hiss or something?
depends. assuming those ratings are RMS, you should be fine.
Most subs these days are sensitive enough that listening to them at 400-500W continuously would be bad for your ears.
Just make sure you set your gains correctly so it won\'t clip at loud peaks in a track.
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Mr D-Style
Read this. You obviously have not. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1998265
What soopersubaru is pointing out (with regards to what is mentioned in the link) is, braking hard, even with stock brakes, would push the limits of the tyre\'s traction capabilities first.
So regardless, if you can fit 1m wide disc brakes, given the same weight of car, you\'d break traction at your tyres first, even with stock brakes.
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bluetooth obd11 adaptor showed up. oohh yep, lets have a play....
f**k, why the hell won\'t it connect to the ecu!!??
so, turns out that JDM import subaru, pre CAN-BUS (circa 2006 on) are not actually obd11 compliant, they use SSM instead.
nz new, AUDM,USDM etc all use obd11, but not jdm.
well s***. hunt around for an SSM bluetooth adaptor. $180 ex UK, seems to be the only bluetooth SSM thingee available worldwide.
now hows that for a pain in the arse. oh well, back to the drawing board... need to convince tactrix to release a bluetooth cable and smartphone app!!!!
Man that explains why I can\'t get my ELM stick to work with DashCommand.
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DashCommand stopped working after an ECU flash =\
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EDIT: whoops.. just read that it was LEDs..
Polarity is important yes. Reverse them if they don\'t light up at first.
Most automotive LED bulbs should have reverse polarity protection diodes.
bulbs work on battery: 12V battery?
Power draw shouldn\'t be an issue. Do you have a multimeter handy?
Check what voltage at the connectors.
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You can get a true satellite tracking unit, where data goes over satellite instead of GPRS.
However you have to pay for the data over the satellite, so no different to GPRS, apart from the coverage.
/quote]
Okay, so in the case of GPRS units etc. They track via GPS but send out information via GPRS
Most GPS trackers I know of are like that.
I\'m with Blackhawk Tracking.
Provides iOS app, and a web portal for you to track your car.
Has the ability to disable car as well.
I hear they are going to release an integrated alarm + GPS solution soon.
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Outside:
Wash => Chemical Guys Hi Gloss Citrus Car Shampoo
Polish => Really depends on whether it needs correction. I\'m still finding the right one for me.
Wax => If I\'m lazy, I use Maguairs Cleaner Wax paste. Easy to apply and easy to buff off.
Soft 99 Rain Shield for winter months, and topped off with another coat of cleaner wax.
Claybar => I\'m on my last dollop of clay that I got from the Mother\'s kit, but I\'m looking at alternatives for the next clay session.
Interior => 303 Aerospace Protectant for dash, vinyl and plastics.
For wheels, I\'m using any random wheel cleaner I can find, but will pick up Sonax Full Effect when it available in the country.
At the end of the day, brands don\'t really matter that much, as long as they are reputable.
I\'m just picky.
It\'s the method and details that make a big difference.
ie: 2 bucket wash.
Drying the car properly.
Proper polishing techniques..
and proper wax application.
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Okay, good to know. Will probably still stick the Kartboy endlinks up front though..
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What have you done to your car today?
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
I\'m praying that a bit more bed in period for the rotors will cure it, but from research so far, its quite unlikely!
Disc brake stop squeal is a last resort.
I\'m enquiring with wingers for pad shims. Should know if they are available and if they are cheap enough to get tomorrow.