nickch
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Posts posted by nickch
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Did an oil and filter change on my car today, I normally use a Ryco Z495 filters but used a black genuine Subaru one this time. The Subaru filter is a a lot smaller the Ryco. Is this normal or did I get the wrong Subaru filter? It fit perfectly though.
Same experience here.
Subaru has changed that part several times in the past, and have finally settled for the small one.
I always try to use genuine filters on mine. It has been tested heaps. Check out the oil thread on NASIOC..
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Johnny: We tried some form of ducting (using some cardboard to direct air to the scoop), but wasn\'t working out too well. We ended up spraying water on the TMIC, sparingly to cool it down.
I\'ve got a V7 STi splitter, but the scoop is still a WRX one.
I\'ve got a V7 STi scoop coming in and just needs to be resprayed. Will definitely help, but still worried about STi scoop on a plain ol WRX..
loner: After spending some more time with the car, it definitely feels a lot better all round. Am definitely pleased with the result.
I do believe there is still +0.5 - +1 psi to chase as the turbo peaks out at around 15psi, then tapers off to 14psi
I\'d would normally agree that the TD04 is too small, but have seen TD04s holding up to 16.8 psi up to 4.5-5k rpm..
But that really comes down to many more variables so I\'m not really bothering too much on the 0.5-1psi.
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Marky']
I\'m guessing that\'s your boost graph you can see in behind the photo? If it is you can absolutely see the little turbo falling away the whole way up - past this point its very much diminishing gains unless like you say you go to larger turbos etc - at which point like you say, got to wonder about pouring $ in vs just buying an sti outright
[quote name='funkytown said:
your tune is superior at every point and will pull more everywhere. sure it crashes earlier but thats normal where you try to bring on little turbos earlier, they crash sooner.
it crashes earlier but at every point your tq is greater than the wg pressure. so it will feel relatively different based on the new \'pull\' factor at any place on your curve. hands down its going to be a faster car.
id be well happy with that sort of tune / result.
Good spotting on that boost curve in the back. Didn\'t realise it was there!
Regarding points running out of puff, and TMIC having to cool an even hotter intake charge, fully agree and are the biggest points IMO.
Cheers for the input!
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This^ mines running 20 PSI 198 odd KW no issues. Tuner said it could handle plenty more but my injectors were maxed.
Did you have a ducted fan on the Intercooler? We tried running just a fan with bonnet shut but temps got massive. Then we ducted the fan to the IC and no more issues. Solid as a rock driving to, a couple degrees above ambient at cruise with no big increases unless you sit idling.
Johnny: what car is this on?
Did not have a duct to the TMIC. Spraying some water on it before and during the run solved any issues.
Getting an STi scoop, and potentially DIY a sprayer solution for track days is probably next on the list.
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IIRC, they are either 380 or 420s.. not too sure!
Re: bigger turbo, I\'m not looking at spending any more money on engine performance for now.
A new turbo would set me back quite a bit more including supporting mods on top of another tune.
Might as well have just bought an STi instead.. :-[
Engine is most likely staying the way it is for now, and focus on handling which equals more fun on track
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Spent a bit more time driving tonight.. and I reckon it could just be (inverse) placebo effect.
In the right gear, it really pulls well regardless of load!
TD04 running out of puff is true..
And its almost maxing out my TMIC cooling capacity at that boost levels.
I reckon there is a little bit more in there, but my injectors are maxed.
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Pickup and driveability feels very good now, however, pulling at high gear at low RPMs show boost doesn\'t really pick up as fast anymore.
Scenario: going up hill, at 60 km/h on 4th gear. Boost stays at 5psi, and picks up a lot slower than it used it.
Would this be expected?
/quote]
I would expect it to better all round... but tbh... you\'ve got to pick the right gear...
Yup, thats what I\'ve been told..
I would miss the anticipation of boost kicking in though..
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[quote name='nickch said:
Pickup and driveability feels very good now, however, pulling at high gear at low RPMs show boost doesn\'t really pick up as fast anymore.
Scenario: going up hill, at 60 km/h on 4th gear. Boost stays at 5psi, and picks up a lot slower than it used it.
Would this be expected?
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Good point. Exactly why I posted this. As I won\'t know what to look for.
Given it is still a gain over the base tune, what would explain the dip?
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As I had some changes under the hood prior to tune, we could not get a proper base run to compare.
NOTE: The bottom plot is the base tune running at wastegate pressure.
Car:
V7 GDA WRX.
Stock TD04-13T
Stock Injectors
3" turbo back exhaust
Turbo Inlet Pipe + ZeroSports after MAF pipe - Snorkel
Pickup and driveability feels very good now, however, pulling at high gear at low RPMs show boost doesn\'t really pick up as fast anymore.
Scenario: going up hill, at 60 km/h on 4th gear. Boost stays at 5psi, and picks up a lot slower than it used it.
Would this be expected?
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url]http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,38046.0.html[/url]
6 pages of baffled sump goodness
the search is good, just have to wade through all the stuff on the site
What you smoking? the CS search functions on the piss
I just google what ever im looking for followed by \'clubsub\' works good 98% of the time
Sorry to bring this thread slightly OT, but THIS.
Search function on the forums is stuffed..
"site:clubsub.org.nz your search terms here" on google works for me
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el cheapo power steering flush yesterday...
darn designers made the spout into the reservoir too small to fit a syphon in.
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2:14 your dome light flickers!
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Tried calling up Armstrong in Chch years back regarding this problem..
Same response..
\'We\'re not governed by US recalls, and we can\'t do the repair for free.\'
Solution: Moved up to Auckland...
Sometimes US famed frivolous law suits don\'t seem that stupid and useless after all..
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fantastic points here...
Re brake, there is no one best brand to get, as it depends on your budget.
Whats been mentioned here is a good recommendation.
Read up on DS2000, Pagids EBC brands for brake pads.
Alternative to the Elf fluid is the Motul RBF600 which is almost always recommended for track days.
You don\'t need to commit so early to coilovers if you focus on other parts of your suspension, such as braces, anti-roll bars..
You will find that replacing cheap bushes and adding anti roll bars will give you the biggest night and day feel to how the car handles..
Hitting the track 2 times a year wouldnt really constitute slotted rotors or lowering springs. Lowering a car to much (anything > 30mm) will enhance bump steer and chnage geometry to much, and most likely screw your factory shocks which arent designed to go that low.
If you need a braking boost
a) get your rotors machined
b) buy some EBC Green stuff pads
c) change your fluid to Elf dot 5.1 (synthetic performance from a mineral fluid)
Handling wise in order
a) good grippy tyres (Falken FK452, Hankook Ventus 12, Toyo Proxes 4 or T1R)
b) nolathane bushes
c) shocks and springs + top hats
d) underbraces
e) overbraces
Coilovers (unless fully customised) will always be to hard for NZ road use, for daily driving and occasional track you cant beat a good matched spring \ shock insert combo (Bilstien, Koni inserts with a quality progressive spring.
Ive modded many cars over the years (Cosmo, MR2AW11, MR2SW20 and 05 Legacy GT) always found the best approch \ path
1) service the car with good fluids
2) polish the car
3) basic mods first (tyres, intake, exhaust, shocks, springs)
4) asthetics (wheels and paint)
5) mid level mods (ecu tuning, manifolds\downpipes, bushes, intercooling)
6) high level (Turbo, ECU, Injectors, Fueling, Engine internals)
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Completely stock Brembos are grouse - are you really pushing the limits of them? If it doesn\'t stop fast enough try standing on it harder. You\'ll be staggered what it takes for ABS to kick in on a GDB with decent tires.
This, it was a weird feeling at first, but my first time on the track taught me to really stand on the pedal.
The brake pads won\'t suddenly shatter the rotors.. (unless they were already on the way to begin with).
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http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1383366
Here is a really good read.
Yeah dont think im going to get slotted rotors anymore but will get some proper brake pads soon... Was just wanting to lower my car but is it worth it with springs as coilovers are way more expensive :-\
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If you plan to go further with the suspension mods, I would save up for a set of coilovers, rather than get springs, then decide later on.
Do it once, do it right.
If these two options are what you have strictly, then I would say lowering springs.
IMO, slotted rotors do not really affect feel too much, as it depends on your pads and fluid (for high temps).
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Though, I\'d focus more on the filtering element as the biggest source of noise.. since thats where most of the turbulence comes from..
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just going on by physics...
Turbulence and friction would be the culprits for making noise.
Flow rate through a fixed length pipe would reduce as the diameter gets larger, probably why you\'d have less noise?
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good score on those bushes!
Which pick a part where you at?
I keep lurking their site hoping for a GDA/GDB to come in.. ><
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Just got a tune, need help explaining what the plots mean.
in Impreza, Crosstrek and XV
Posted
lol.. pretty valid points regarding a bigger turbo...
I do agree that for very little sacrifice to spool up times, you can get a turbo that has better peak airflow.
Though, its not something on the cards for now, and the motor is most likely staying like this for now.
Anything more would involve bigger turbo, bigger injectors....
As a side note, living in apartments suck when you intend to work on your own car.
Will be looking at sway bars and ALKs...