igkgunn
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Posts posted by igkgunn
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Hey guys,
Any auto sparkies out there able to help a brother in chch out?
Having trouble getting the car started, suspect no power to ECU
Cheers
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Yea, first youll want to clean the engine bay with a hose, brush and a can of degreaser ( i find Green Stuff quite good as its not as harsh and you can use it for cleaning anything pretty much!)
Then pop to repco or super cheap and look for a can of stuff that blackens plastic. Just make sure its able to be used in an engine bay and your sweet.
If you've got some about, have a look at the silicon spray most pple use for blackening tyres., thats what i used on my black trim, and it bought it up really nicely considering its been outside, sat behind the front wheel of my car for 200,000ks and 15 years!
take it to an eziwash or similar place and steam clean, then use tyre shine. quicker and easier
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Does the fuel pump prime when you turn ignition to on?
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no just a standard intake pipe. the intake wouldnt fit with the old pump, and it was performing pretty bad anyway
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haha yeah it was a spare hose of some description i couldn't be assed putting too much effort into because i have a front mount kit to install sometime with a much better blow off valve
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My engine bay shortly after i got the car:
My engine bay recently:
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I actually hear caterpillar oil is really good for cleaning. Apparently Gough Gough and Hamer will deal retail for you
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So I chucked in the factory ECU and grey injectors went back in, also changed back to coil on plug setup. Car ran like s*** for a little bit but then died. No fuses or relays blown, no check engine light. I am starting to think this has blown the factory ECU too.
Anyone know of any good auto sparkies in chch?
Getting very discouraged with my car not running and then being crashed into with the guy doing a runner (and low on funds). After all of the work put in, I'm thinking of hocking it off...
/quote]
ring dean a t locost automotive tell him craig from resurrection audio sent you. tell him your prob and he will get his auto sparky out to see it. hes good and cheap. he has all the tools to find out what needs to be done. cant remember the number but ring him dean in whit pages locost automotive. 59a rowan ave in bexly
thanks man, ill have a look for him
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So I chucked in the factory ECU and grey injectors went back in, also changed back to coil on plug setup. Car ran like shit for a little bit but then died. No fuses or relays blown, no check engine light. I am starting to think this has blown the factory ECU too.
Anyone know of any good auto sparkies in chch?
Getting very discouraged with my car not running and then being crashed into with the guy doing a runner (and low on funds). After all of the work put in, I'm thinking of hocking it off...
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on the topic of couriers
i absolutely hate courier post.. useless
so i buy a hks blow off valve...they throw it over my fence and the box gets all mashed
same as a thermostat...bent as they threw it over the fence..also a flat mate brought an I phone.. guess what thrown over the fence and cracked...
did they resolve the issue for you?
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I have alot of parts go to and from chch through multiple different companies. Most parts come to me through New Zealand post (post shop) and I have to say I'm unimpressed by their service. Items generally come a few days late, the tracking tool is unreliable and customer service are never hugely helpful.
I would say when choosing who to go for it totally depends what you want. New Zealand Couriers is great for on time delivery and priced similar to NZPost, Mainfreight is really good on pricing and their tracking tool is miles ahead of anyone else.
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Just grab some antifreeze, some radiator flush and do it yourself. Drain from bung, refill with flush and water and leave car running for 15minutes, drain again (repeat as necessary) and refill with new antifreeze after it comes out clean.
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its not the drain bung underneath the radiator?
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Simplest solutions are usually the best. Have you checked the turbo lines for wear or slip off? Or have you done any work on the engine recently (If so I would check wherever that was first).
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Yeah it basically puts cement through the coolant lines and when it gets to air it sets blocking the hole. Problem is, residual cement will just build up in turbos because the lines are much smaller than your radiator outlets. That's why I'll not use a second time. Sure you save a bit of money in not replacing buggered hoses and clamps or a radiator, but I ended up spending a bit more on a new turbo setup
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just hope like hell theres no aeration in the coolant lines of your turbo as this stuff will destroy it. this happened to my old one
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Will take me a few weeks to save the rego fee, but definitely keen
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Split fuel rails is a good thing to do if you want to do a couple of other things around the area if you ask me. Ive just recently done mine and cost roughly $80 ($30 fuel line, brass t fitttings $12, new clamps $10, second rail with fuel pressure regulator $30), but then i also did new painted intake manifold, bigger injectors etc, so it was simple with the manifold off. Be aware you may have to spend on other things when you start modding eg. New manifold gaskets, new breather lines and coolant lines if theyre brittle and crack as you move them, etc. And every little thing generally ends up adding up to be a bit of a bill in the end. In short if you dont want to be spending alot of money just settle with what you have and dont mod. For me its almost become an addiction!
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You definitely have a point but under inspection of the coils at least one is completly fucked. I have the old ecu but when i changed to link i also changed to yellow injectors from grey so worried about that again causing more issues. I think i may have access now to a serialLink and will order my own to get a diagnostic from that. Feel free to fire off any ideas, i appreciate the help even if it doesnt solve the problem(s). Just crossing my fingers that it isnt anything too expensive
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Thanks guys, i have tried disconnecting the alternator and it didnt make a difference. I will try taking the sensors out and clean/test them tomorrow. Half way through converting to wasted spark coils just freaking annoying when you dont have your car to pick up parts you need.
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I cant remember which way around it is but a cam/crank sensor will stop fuel/spark if its bung or unplugged. Just cos it looks ok doesn't mean it is ok.
That "charging" sound your talking about is probably your fuel pump priming everytime you turn the ignition on. If it doesn't turn on every time that may be where your issue is.
I would start by changing cam and crank sensors, just borrow some off a car you know is working.
nah it wasnt the fuel pump making that noise, i think it was the ignitor. the fuel pump was definitely working when the noise wasn't. I think when the ECU detects an abnormality with the ground or cam/crank sensors it cuts power to the ignitor.
Im pretty certain it will be a spark problem as one of the cylinders was trying to fire when last i tried. ive pulled the coils out now and at least one is shagged so in the process of changing them to later wasted spark setup. might change the ignitor too
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Okay don't know of anyone with a serialLink to borrow, but had a wee squiz this afternoon in the sun.
Fuel pump definitely is flowing well
Checked cam angle sensor, seems to be fine
Checked crank angle sensor and upon refitting engine made a charging noise associated with turning key that it hadn't been doing yesterday.
Tried starting engine again and it was firing one cylinder but only one. Also saw a bit of vapour making its way out of intake.
I was originally thinking it would be a spark issue and might need to check coils and plugs, but I'm now wondering if there is an issue with cam belt slipping or something despite cam belt being replaced just last year.
Any advice?
Going to check coils now.
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I'm running a possumlink and it's not showing up any check engine light. The lights all go away as they should normally once key has been turned. Unless there is a different process for getting codes from a possumlink, nothing is coming up
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Go to the link engine management site..download the program to suit your link. Connect it to your laptop and it will tell you what is going on. Or take the car to your local link dealer/tuner
Yeah im trying to get ahold of a serialLink in chch now to plug it in
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cold air intakes mythbusted?
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