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BC5RA

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Posts posted by BC5RA

  1.  RAC said:

    22g seems to be some other wheel Steve M uses, maybe a garrett of some sort that is a bit bigger than a 20g?

    Dyno numbers are just that, over time with averaged results you will find the 16g will do "about" 340-360hp, 18g 360-390ish and the 20g 360-420ish depending on setup of cause.

    You will start finding limits of the td05 turbine at some point with the 20g or bigger, some have found good results using the 18g - not lost alot of power over the 20g but gaind better spool.

    The best i have heard of with a td05 20g is 440hp at the engine on a 2L but that was with some other fuel, maybe lots of meth.

    I believe Steve offer's a 22g TD06 comp housing upgrade, a few of them have popped up here and OZ.

    Can't say what the wheel is based on though, he is certainly doing good work with later gen VF series turbos.

    311kw@wheels with IHI VF36.

  2.  Koom']

    [quote name='newsuba said:

    Best VFM... stock rotors, good pads and fluid, properly bedded in and cooled down after a hot run.

    /quote]

    Absolutely agree. This is the best combination to start with.

    As far as choosing pads, go with the recommendation of someone you trust. Not what people say on the internet.

    Talk to people who work on and/or own Rally/Race cars and find out what they use and why. And then make an informed decision.

    Remember that alot of the opinions you are hearing here are from very different setups, some people are using road tyres on the track and in some cases driving road cars. These setups will behave differently from someone using semi slicks on their road car at the track, and different again from someone on semi slicks/full slicks on a race car...

    My 2c.

    Great advice.

    I've used Ultimates/Standard Rotors/Motul RBF600 for the last few years and it does the trick for trackdays on street tyres. I'll be upgrading to some much better pads once I get round to getting some semi-slicks as I feel the current combo is at its limit with my current grip levels.

    We used Znoelli Slotted Rotors/Project Mu HC++ Pads/Motul RBF600 for the Silverfern Rally. The pads lasted two days for each front set which seemed excessive but it was the equivalent of a full seasons worth of rallying within 8 days.

    We have since been given a set of Project Mu pads of a new compound to test during this rally season and have been told to only need to change them once in a season. Used them for one rally at end of last season and they still looked brand new afterwards.

    +1 on great advice, I use the same setup as you Koom on the street i find (besides the dust) it to be more than adequate.

    Have yet to drive competitively (at an event ::)) but intend to do so later this year. Thanks again for the advice Munkvy.

  3. Think about it.

    If you are going to have your water tank sitting as a collector for the FMIC air then the air will heat up to whatever the temp of the water is in the tank.

    Essentially you'll be adding a restriction to your setup.

    And if your not going to circulate the water in the tank then watch it heat soak.

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