Jump to content
Please check your junk folder for registration emails ×

BC5RA

General Member
  • Posts

    3,250
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by BC5RA

  1. I'd go grab a genuine air filter and some CRC afm cleaner and give it a spray.
  2. Are you running an oiled filter like a K&N OEM replacement? Would the cars ECU re learn for 98 that quickly?
  3. WRC headers run no flexi, and neither did a set of Racefab $1500 headers a friend has either. So saying that you should run a flexi is also misinformation - which to be fair Loner didn't say, he said prone to cracking if you didn't.
  4. Sure Loner/Loren, I think I'll trust my own experiences and the R&D of Perrin or HKS over some sardonic web dweller.
  5. I've run a 1 piece stock diameter HKS up pipe for over 100k - no issues with thermal expansion and contraction.
  6. Not sure what car this is - but the up pipe should have bellows not a flexi - just leave the heat shields on. If you ever go to an aftermarket up-pipe then you would need to wrap it, or do what loner did and source some flexible heatshielding.
  7. You should be able to remove it as a whole piece as others have suggested. Best to go this route - get under the car and assess. Once it's all off - you could rotate the up pipe and loosen it without further barbarism. Not that i'm saying there isn't a time and place for it
  8. These headers should be shamed at every opportunity, and made known of their lack of quality and potential damage to Turbos in the wider community. This is the next in a long list of times these headers have F***ed up that i know of. Sorry to see.
  9. You should unplug the fuel pump and crank the engine to depressurize the rails.
  10. Garrett should have the tolerances for radial and axial play online. But then you would need a dial indicator. What sort of intake are you running to the Turbo, any chance it maybe being sucked in at all? Your exhaust manifold has - at least in the past - failed at the up-pipe coupling from my own experience. But perhaps you should look at the flex join for any kind of collapse, if you have not found a leak.
  11. That's exactly what the manual recommends and thats what I did just recently. You can go online and download the actual procedure.
  12. I meant your own rails after install. Sometimes the O-rings pinch, and when you get rail pressure if the leak is bad enough you will hose the combustion chamber, potentially flooding the cylinder. Could be the reason you have wet plugs? Or maybe I'm just not understanding, in any case goodluck.
  13. Good to know - I've been out of the loop for a long time. Injector removal and cleaning is a periodic maintenance check for me, I'll go that route next time.
  14. Its about 130 with GST at Edgell Performance to have your injectors cleaned and flowed. Did you lift the rails to see if you have fuel leaking past the bottom O-ring?
  15. Great news - nothing like an easy fix.
  16. If i understand correctly, the car runs satisfactory with the chip active, so why not keep boost at a safe level and wait until you are ready to go to a tunable ECU? Or you could buy a 2nd ECU that suits 380cc injectors and do the whole lot? There won't be any issue with it being upside down, it should be mounted to a socket.
  17. When I get my ride back, I'll pop over for a look. Whas your location? Pick a part maybe better than ordering a new item which will probably be from Japan.
  18. That's great and all, but do you have any actual numbers or experience? Businesses don't hire professionals to charge the customer more, they pay for themselves.
  19. As Loner said. I put a 5.3kg Flywheel in mine and is one of my favorite modifications so far, It can be a pain on hill starts but you do get used to it, Stock flywheels are around the 11kg point. Only lightweight flywheels will give a bit of NVH. Much more positive and lighter to use a single mass flywheel.
  20. Adding an adjustable restriction and doing away with the inline restriction does control your psi, but not anything more than that.
  21. Ah bugger. Yeah Autospeed did a bunch of flow testing etc and found that only the Larger GD STI coolers were worth swapping to, but then you would have to run a giant bonnet scoop and ruin those nice smooth BC/BF lines.
  22. Ah i see, I went with external mounted Bosch coils. Walbro GSS342 is the one you want. Tip - reuse your fuel pump filter sock, located at the bottom of the pump assembly - Not the supplied sock. Reason being is that the Walbro sock mounts horizontally and the stock one at 45 degrees, If you used the Walbro one, you may (probably) get fuel surge when riding near empty on the corners. Also - each to there own, but I'd ditch the angled WRX cooler, its not an upgrade from the stock WAIC, probably too much of a fuss to go back, just thought i would mention it.
  23. Thats a suitable ECU if not the OEM one. Cut on a Z4 is 15.6psi, you should be getting nearly 13 psi standard. You can try another way to control boost: Return everything to stock and locate the hose going from the bottom of the boost control solenoid to the post AFM resonator that is often replaced with the "Coffee cup" mod. This hose has a restriction inline, so remove the hose in total, and store for later use if needed. Now buy a length of hose to replace it and plumb your boost T somewhere in the middle, the idea is to make the restriction adjustable with the T, wind it fully back and you will get wastegate pressure (9 psi) then adjust in increments to the desired boost level.
×
×
  • Create New...