BC5RA
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Posts posted by BC5RA
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As above sign up, good stuff, relative to our cars on that site.
Once again if i win big wednesday i'd look in WAIC for my ride, i'm not a big fan of the front mount intercooler.
But something has to be said for a non parasitic system as the FMIC, it weighs a fair bit less, requires no maintenance and would be easier to install.
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wildturkey']
here's a site that might answer some questions about water to air setups..........interesting read
http://www.frozenboost.com/stpg.php?page_id=water_to_air
I think you may have grossly understated the efficiencies of the water to air setup BC
here's some more read of the advantages of water to air over air to air.........especially the bottom section which talks about faster response from the water to air system
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intercooler
here's one for the air to air converts.................http://www.bellintercoolers.com/pages/techFAQ.html#FAQ_5
Not at all, in fact i'm a huge supporter of the RS water to air intercooler system, i've never knocked the WAIC application at all; i mean we are talking about the WAIC system on Gen 1 Legacys right? :
No point in posting up unrelated information, here is some real world material about RS WAIC who actually own and modify these cars.
http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=45165&highlight=waic
It all depends on the application i've seen WAIC setups run very well on a drag type situation (many use FMIC) and rarely on a street setup but then i haven't seen everything, :
how many cars do you see lapping Tskuba Circuit with a WAIC?;D I find it laughable that you think i'm arguing against the WAIC! I own a BC5. It has the OE WAIC. I wouldn't change it.
[quote name='legacy666 said:
dont really need to back it up, just expressing my view and experiance after owning an rs for 11 years and had having it built at possum bourne motorsport you get to hear a few opinions from people who know what they are talking about. oh and the 12.1 quarter mile i ran and the dyno read out that says 242kws show that the standard water to air can handle the job
I am also expressing my views and experiences, i have seen all types of setups on these models, and only one that made 200kw@wheels with the standard WAIC the rest all ran FMIC, if you have a 242kw@wheels dyno sheet using the standard WAIC then that's impressive... i'd like to see your setup; and if you do then I have seen a man eat his own head.
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if your sitting at the lights or start line in 30 degree heat then your front mount aint guna be doing much to cool your intake temp.as opposed to a water to air which always has coolant running thru it.
and anyone who thinks the standard water to air wont handle past 180kws ,try 240kws at the wheels with a water to air.
You want to back that up?
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I think we will have to look to the aftermarket for any kind of drool.
Any word on Spec C RA newsuba?
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If we are talking about a Gen 1 Legacy system then yes the pre throttle body tank, Modify it in the sense that the turbo to intercooler pipe is Half a shitty plastic pipe (with BOV outlet) and half cast into the tank itself, you could increase the flow buy making up a Y pipe arrangement or a larger single inlet.
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Haven't done it, but researched extensively.
Two Legacy heat exchangers added together to make one twice the size, plus high flow pump or wire yours to run at full.
Will be a restriction an 350hp. These mods are more of the support kind rather than power adders and ultimately you'll need to modify the intercooler tank to increase flow.
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Yes..
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Yes, i circulates to the front. is cooled by the ambient air then returned to the tank.
It's not better than a front mount necessarily, there are some draw backs.
For starters a front mount is a much simpler design therefore requires less maintenance, the cost of modifing the WAIC to flow as well as a FMIC would be pointless given the results of a FMIC.
Have a look at some of the rides kicking around with over 200kw at the wheels.
In saying all of that i won't chop up my front bar to fit a FMIC but then i'm not chasing extra kw.
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Fark me theres some real thinkers in this thread... :
hey m8, you wana keep your w2a setup ay.. that puppies full with coolant.. and the vent in the bonnet blows air onto your turbo.. ( nice cool air ) think of it this way in regard to fmic yeah they look cool ( if your that way inclined ) and yeah theres alot more pipe than the w2a so its more of a distance the air has to travel, shorter pipe FTW, which is why a flipped manifold was suggested ( even shorter pipe than normal for fmic.
ditch the vf-10.. seriously, get your self a td-05h or vf off an sti...
cut the freeboosting crap ( for real )
make sure you got a nice flowing exhaust and down pipe, service it regularly and look after it, yeah its fun to boost.. however think of the higher temps and what it does to your engine !
good luck i hope it all works out for you.
For starters the vent is there to let hot air out when the car is stationary.
Sorry to say but the AWIC is not going to meet anybodys needs after 180kw@wheels.
If you want to argue that point then go ahead.
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I'd say after about 16 psi the VF10 will just not flow anything more just hot air.
In saying that yes a front mount inter cooler to cool that hot air may be of some use.
I can't see a free boosting VF10 flowing enough air for 230kw at the crank.
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Just leave it, Gunit.
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Buy another heat exchanger from a wreck, take your existing one and that one to a radiator shop and ask them to cut off the endtanks of one of them and integrate the two.
It's been done before and MRT used to offer this as an upgrade and thats the method they used for a larger heat exchanger.
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If you do use just the valve between the compressor and the wastegate don't forget about a bleed.
Since when was there a 1st generation RA?
http://www.autospeed.co.nz/cms/A_1905/article.html Heres the article previously mentioned.
Since when was there a Gen 1 RA? since 1989 not only that but technically speaking they are also an STI (albeit in a lower tech form) as a very early form of STI worked on the engines powering these.
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Why would you even consider a VF10 free boosted or not?
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Yeah I have a Dynamic Race chip in my 90 GT. Runs 17psi happy as on yellows.
Originally I ran 18psi, but the boost kept blowing out the spark. I closed the gap down to 0.6mm and it was fine. AFR's weren't too flash at that boost level, but that was the chip, not the fuel pump, injectors etc.
To be safe, leave the yellows in, or don't boost on the greys. You'll risk leaning it out if the chip is actually for yellows and you fit greys.
Get your fuel pressure checked, the AFM output checked and pull your coils out and check they're not all cracked and falling apart on the tips.
If he bought an off the shelf chip for a face lift Legacy turbo (16 bit) then it will be tuned for 380s is your dynamic race chip tailored for yellowtops?
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I would say 3" turbo back and then 2.5 diff back. Would give best top-end flow and best midrange.
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I use on average 80 litres per week of Ultimate, and i want answers.
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$400 would be with a flange made up so you can remove it and put your cannon back on.
Obviously there are cheaper ways but no one asked for the cheapest way to quieten it down did they.
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Weird. Go to lower hutt pitstop and talk to them about it. Should cost you $400 fully installed.
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Yes the bigger the muffler the better it "muffles" wildturkey best bet would be to get a 2.5 RPS muffler...no not the cannon type its a straight through muffler around twice the size of a cannon, and won't restrict flow.Here a link. I got one put on as a removable type and got through a WOF
thats an untrue statement.
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Who's Online 2 Members, 1 Anonymous, 86 Guests (See full list)
Front-mount on worked 1st-gen. Worth it
in Engine Related
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A joke? ;D
Yeah.. you never need to clean out the core, or replace the water pump bearings or change over the relay solenoids.
Its a fact they do require maintenance. Having one go hassle free for 6 months doesn't qualify you to make a statement like that, but i suppose you'll now tell me you've owned an RS for 11 years plus and never had to replace a broken turbo to intercooler pipe or replace a water pump cause it got too noisy. Do you even know if your pump is still running the low and high speeds? :