eddiewould

General Member
  • Content Count

    122
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About eddiewould

  • Rank
    Forum Member

Personal Information

  • Location
    Wellington

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hey, Wondering if anyone can put me in touch with Rick Wheeler (place of work)? Want to get a second opinion on some work that was carried out on my car. Chur, Eddie
  2. Hey, Just had my engine replaced by local garage (big end bearing failure). When they did it, they called me up to tell me that the release bearing for my clutch needs replacing - so I went ahead and got that done too (not being mechanically inclined). Now the car makes a "whirring" noise when the clutch pedal isn't pressed in (i.e. most of the time). It sounds like a belt to me, but the garage says it's due to the release bearing being new and the pressure plate being old - and the (pins/teeth/gears?) not lining up properly. It's done just under 1000km since the engine was replaced. They told me "I wouldn't worry about it" and "it will probably get better with time". The car also makes a different noise that it didn't use to (sounds like engine breaking but louder, kind of like something is resonating) when I back off the accelerator at highway speeds. They tell me it's "internal to the gearbox". But it sounds very coincidental that this noise would start right after the engine was replaced - it didn't make that noise before. 1) Is (the pressure plate) something they should have checked when they did the release bearing replacement? 2) Is it (the pressure plate) really nothing to worry about? 3) Are there any other explanations for the engine-breaking noise I'm hearing? It's irritating to have spent $5k replacing the engine and still not to be happy with how the car is driving. </rant>
  3. Diagnosis: The assembly v-band clamp has loosened itself and caused the bearing body to fall out of the exhaust housing on a angle and damage the bearing body and turbine/shaft.
  4. Sometimes the trip computer on my BL leggy will show "IGN". According to this thread http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/15509-acc-flashing-information-display.html that indicates "the ignition power circuit is open". Is this serious and do I need to get it looked into? What might have caused it?
  5. The reason my engine died is because of insufficient oil pressure (pump issue). Does that change likelihood of turbo failure?
  6. I can hear something that sounds to my ears like high RPM whining and seems to respond to throttle. My mechanic said the "turbo has a noise from bearings". Do I need to find a new mechanic?
  7. Turbo (bearings) are audible - much more so than previously. What diagnostics do you reckon I should run?
  8. Hey, Turbo on my car is not performing properly, not sure if it was caused by big-end bearing failure or vice versa. Engine has since been replaced so seems like I should do something about the turbo. "Total Turbo" have quoted me around $450 for a rebuild assuming it's a simple job (fit OE rebuild kit, rebalance). That seems like a really good price. Wondering if anyone has dealt with them before? Alternatively, I've found a TD04-HLA for $695 from a wrecker w/ 30 day warranty which seems reasonable. What would you do? I don't want to try and improve performance of car (MY04 Legacy BL GT), just restore to original spec.
  9. Cheers for the info - pretty sure mine looks like that, so that's a good sign. With regards to the wiring - hasn't "Guitar_guy" done it here? http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?48404-Guitar_Guy-s-2004-Legacy-McIntosh-Stereo-Hack-Pic-Heavy
  10. Well if anyone is interested I found out why the big-end gave out - the pressure-release valve on the oil pump had gunk in it and had stuck in the "open" position meaning oil was going straight into the sump (insufficient oil pressure) rather than where it should be going. A bit disappointed I didn't get a CEL for that. I guess I know why people buy fancy gauges now. I've ended up replacing the engine with one from a wrecker with ~80,000km on it (allegedly). Using my cambelt/tensioners/water pump etc since they were replaced only 40,000km ago. Fingers crossed!
  11. Sorry to dredge up an old thread; I have a MY04 JDM BL5 (Spec. B). How do I tell whether mine is a splitable unit or one-piece? Do you need to take it out to establish that? Also people are saying you'll need to replace the amp if you go with an aftermarket HU, why is that?
  12. Ouch, after looking at the quotes I might end up sending the car to a wrecking yard after-all