eddiewould
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Posts posted by eddiewould
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3 minutes ago, evowrx said:
Whats your location?
I'm based in Wellington.
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Hey,
Just had my engine replaced by local garage (big end bearing failure). When they did it, they called me up to tell me that the release bearing for my clutch needs replacing - so I went ahead and got that done too (not being mechanically inclined).
Now the car makes a "whirring" noise when the clutch pedal isn't pressed in (i.e. most of the time). It sounds like a belt to me, but the garage says it's due to the release bearing being new and the pressure plate being old - and the (pins/teeth/gears?) not lining up properly. It's done just under 1000km since the engine was replaced. They told me "I wouldn't worry about it" and "it will probably get better with time".
The car also makes a different noise that it didn't use to (sounds like engine breaking but louder, kind of like something is resonating) when I back off the accelerator at highway speeds. They tell me it's "internal to the gearbox". But it sounds very coincidental that this noise would start right after the engine was replaced - it didn't make that noise before.
1) Is (the pressure plate) something they should have checked when they did the release bearing replacement?2) Is it (the pressure plate) really nothing to worry about?
3) Are there any other explanations for the engine-breaking noise I'm hearing?
It's irritating to have spent $5k replacing the engine and still not to be happy with how the car is driving.
</rant>
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Diagnosis: The assembly v-band clamp has loosened itself and caused the bearing body to fall out of the exhaust housing on a angle and damage the bearing body and turbine/shaft.
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Sometimes the trip computer on my BL leggy will show "IGN". According to this thread
that indicates "the ignition power circuit is open".
Is this serious and do I need to get it looked into? What might have caused it?
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The reason my engine died is because of insufficient oil pressure (pump issue). Does that change likelihood of turbo failure?
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Ive been using david for turbos on my own car & mates customer cars for years. Never had an issuse or have they. Good to deal with & has been involved in diffrant areas of motorsport for a number of years. Check out his fb page. Or if your local happy to show you turbos hes built for me.
Thanks!
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You cant hear turbo bearings . Good or worn out .
Have u eliminate anything that could be a result of pf the engine having been out and back it . Turbo inlet or outlet noises . Heat shield not put back it . Air box lid not clipped in properly ?
I can hear something that sounds to my ears like high RPM whining and seems to respond to throttle. My mechanic said the "turbo has a noise from bearings". Do I need to find a new mechanic?
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Hey,
Turbo on my car is not performing properly, not sure if it was caused by big-end bearing failure or vice versa. Engine has since been replaced so seems like I should do something about the turbo.
"Total Turbo" have quoted me around $450 for a rebuild assuming it's a simple job (fit OE rebuild kit, rebalance). That seems like a really good price. Wondering if anyone has dealt with them before?
Alternatively, I've found a TD04-HLA for $695 from a wrecker w/ 30 day warranty which seems reasonable.
What would you do? I don't want to try and improve performance of car (MY04 Legacy BL GT), just restore to original spec.
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If it looks like this you can split it. This also means you have an amplified McIntosh unit.
As the connectors from the HU to Amp are not RCA you cannot just drop an aftermarket unit in as the speakers are not powered from the HU. The speaker connections are under the passenger seat.
So long story short, you can run new RCA leads to a new amp under the seat (nano amp if you want it to fit) and then hook your factory speaker cables up from there. Or you can run some new speaker cables from HU to your speakers.
There is probably some way to get some RCA leads spliced into the factory loom to use the factory amp, but I have not seen it.
Cheers for the info - pretty sure mine looks like that, so that's a good sign.
With regards to the wiring - hasn't "Guitar_guy" done it here? http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?48404-Guitar_Guy-s-2004-Legacy-McIntosh-Stereo-Hack-Pic-Heavy
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Well if anyone is interested I found out why the big-end gave out - the pressure-release valve on the oil pump had gunk in it and had stuck in the "open" position meaning oil was going straight into the sump (insufficient oil pressure) rather than where it should be going. A bit disappointed I didn't get a CEL for that. I guess I know why people buy fancy gauges now.
I've ended up replacing the engine with one from a wrecker with ~80,000km on it (allegedly). Using my cambelt/tensioners/water pump etc since they were replaced only 40,000km ago. Fingers crossed!
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Sorry to dredge up an old thread; I have a MY04 JDM BL5 (Spec. B). How do I tell whether mine is a splitable unit or one-piece? Do you need to take it out to establish that? Also people are saying you'll need to replace the amp if you go with an aftermarket HU, why is that?
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Ouch, after looking at the quotes I might end up sending the car to a wrecking yard after-all
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So I had this dilemma not that long ago, and it really depends on your budget etc.
I had three options priced up as I kinda of knew what I wanted.
Option 1 - Rebuild current motor (depends on the level of damage)
Option 2 - Was buy new/second hand ej207 shortblock and use current heads (again depending on damage)
Option 3 - Buy new/second had ej257 short block
I was originally going to just have mine rebuilt but there was too much damage for this to be a realistic option, so I ended up going with a ej207 short block and I am so much happier for it
But it really depends on what your after, power? reliability? just getting it back on the road?
Also pays to a
Thanks very much - very helpful!
What did you pay for the EJ207 short-block & when? Where did you get it from, any idea on how many K's it had on it? Did you do the work yourself? I will be getting my mechanic to do the work (not mechanically inclined myself) but just trying to get a feel for how straightforward the EJ207 short-block + EJ20T head Frankenstein would be for them.
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So - despite having my car religiously serviced every 6 months (my car does only about 8,000km a year) the big end bearing has failed and so I effectively need a new engine.
The car is a MY04 BL5 Legacy GT Spec. B (manual). The car is tidy and fully optioned (full leather, HIDs, seat heaters, Bilsteins) and has 140,000km on it. It's also got some very nice near-new Michelin rubber on it. I could be wrong but even if I decide to sell the car, I think it would be in my interest to get it going again prior to selling.
What are my options for engine replacement (within a sane budget - I know this isn't going to be cheap but want to keep costs reasonable)?
Can I take an engine from
- A later version of the same chassis (i.e. facelift)?
- An automatic BL5 (my is manual)?
- A wagon (BP5) - mine is the sedan (BL5)?
- A WRX?
Cheers,
Eddie
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Got it sorted. Thanks to those who offered a hand!
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Hey,
Wondering if someone has a rivnut gun and would be happy to help out on a small project of mine (not car related). Just need 6x rivnuts put in (I guess M5 or something) to a freezer lid (!) for hinges. I've marked out where I want the 6x rivnuts to go. Will of course bring the freezer lid to you, reimburse you whatever the rivnuts are worth and give you a couple of bottles of delicious home-brewed beer (a double IPA and a scotch ale) for your trouble.
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Legend. Cheers brah.
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Hey,
Wondering where I can buy the little "pegs" that hold down the various bits of trim in my engine bay? Car is a MY04 Legacy.
Chur,
Eddie
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Does anyone have anything good or otherwise to say about the CTEK battery chargers (specically, the CTEK MXS5.0). I occasionally run my car flat by mistake (I know, I know...) and so it would be handy to have something that can charge it back up overnight and/or recondition it.
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Bleh, will have to find somewhere else to get my car serviced. Ain't no way I'm driving all the way out to the Hutt.
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- Clock / trip computer in the dash (it stops working, display garbled etc). Usually fixable for about $150
- Check the central locking locks all doors
- O2 sensors
- Rough idle / bunny-hopping when under load
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I've decided to hang on to them. I had a closer look at them (and a guide to that specific model of bulb) and I'm pretty sure they're legit. Even if they're not, the 12 month warranty + cost of generic bulbs makes it a reasonable risk/reward. Installed them today, they're all good - a bit yellow, but suspect they'll burn in and go a bit whiter with time.
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Rick Wheeler
in Wellington / Kapiti
Posted
Hey,
Wondering if anyone can put me in touch with Rick Wheeler (place of work)? Want to get a second opinion on some work that was carried out on my car.
Chur,
Eddie