hijacka
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Posts posted by hijacka
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If its a subaru it should be getting driven daily unless the engines out.
Well maybe for some but there are weekend only examples out there to that might get caught out/ not just cars boats or why would suffer the same. I would say its like that with all gps trackers?, perhaps a battery upgrade to go with the tracker would be a good investment in any case.
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Speaking only of the cheap ebay ones they are worth having but you should note they will flatten a battery if the car is unused for a week or why depending on the battery its self.. although its got a built in battery the unit keeps sending gps signals so puts drain on the battery.
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Change the wheel color orange looks awful and its bound to put buyers off perhaps black would be better, also the first thing you read is you want to sell asap to buy a Audi(remove that bit) that only tells me its a boring car to drive and i to feel like buying a audi after reading that, ditch the stereo install pictures!
shine the car up and take it to some nice spots for pictures/photo shoot, having picture of the car at a gas station isn't really ideal and neither is your own drive although seeing it looks like a nice area might be an advantage. ultimately you are probably trying to attract a female drive so nice shiny pictures that say fun times will work lol.
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Same reason for clamping the slave's piston in.
Nah still doesn't get rid of the air pocket that accumulates at the bottom of the slave cly piston. Its the angle of it thats the issue
you leave the pedal in the up position. unbolt the slave from the box turn it up so the nipple is pointing to the sky, crack the nipple at the same time put slight pressure on the slave piston rod (so it doesn't suck air in) Push on the slave till it expels all the fluid tighten nipple release pressure from rod and allow the piston to throw back out before repeating... no need to pump the clutch pedal if there is fluid in the lines already as there is a spring on the bottom of the piston to allow it to return. and Joker even though its called a return spring its not its job actually it works the opposite way.. bleeding the clutch system is a 1 person job and you must remove the slave.
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Looks like normal wear for a car that is 22 years old and only had 1 major service
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Sorry not really getting the ''play thing'' you are talking about? Your spigot bearing or bush which ever one you have will centre the gearbox input shaft, if you have a loose input shaft then its the input shaft bearing you should be looking at. It is the most abused bearing in the box
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Put a new engine into the de reg v5 gf8 got it running icely without looking over the body properly first now i found this in the rear quarter panel and its nasty lol. Looks like i will need to re shell it, bloody hate half arse repairs!
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Mainly for sensor life/temperature reasons isn't it?
Reversed scenario but I'm still running my original upstream BH5B O2 sensor, now downstream with the version 6 STI ECU. Only thing I've noticed is a very light power surge while warming up during light throttle cruising.
When the new DP and genuine V6 STI O2 sensor goes in (shorter cable), I'll have to extend the plug wiring about 400-500mm.
With a twin turbo you have 2 downpipes so its going to read better in the manifold. Early single turbo leggys have them in the manifold, perhaps they found better results with them mounted in the downpipe? considering how close they are to the turbo and how well they survive imo i don't think it will last any less than one in the upstream .. i know the sensor it self can take up or downstream but don't know comparisons. Air fuel ratio sensor is a different story.. which is probably why v7 sti have them upstream you would have to mount it 1 metre from the turbo for it last and that would be after the cat so its not really a option for a new car. Thats just my own thoughts not factual at all lol
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This is one of those moments where you need to have it physically checked by a decent mechanic hopefully one in your area can chime in and help you.. Perhaps start a thread in the north island section as there are plenty of good mechanics up there who are on theses boards regularly. I'll get the ball rolling anyway.. Are the swaybar links sitting right? what sort of links are they pillow ball or plastic? strut might be loose? jack te rear u and see if the strut shaft falls out might not have done the nut up properly.
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Looking for a set of wheel nuts with locks (for security + the look). Found this on trademe, what do you guys think, mainly concern about the quality/safety factor then
They are alloy so are illegal
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Its not bad to get at it just got to bend the inner panel alittle, undo it when its hot and use crc you should be able to move it with open end spanner, The heat shield is the pain! i will cut the top of the hole out so i don't have to loop the wiring from the sensor through and also you can use ring end of spanner to do up. here where you can buy from: http://www.subaruspeed.co.nz/products/oxygen-sensor-22641-aa191
http://www.subaruspeed.co.nz/products/oxygen-sensor-22641-aa042
Make sure you get the right one/(check the part number of your oem one first to be certain..(most likely the second link one)
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Ive actually just come across this. Funny enough its in my home town where my car is located
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/engines/auction-939094752.htm
This is a CDB correct?
Eww Just build one yourself safest bet.. FWIW i wouldnt buy it.. the fact that it hasn't even been decked is a warning sign!
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Dccd pro had me sold on the its mountable g sensor instead of being mounted in the unit like mapdccd. This way you mount it in the center of car so you get a true reading, also get a version that can be wired/run factory dccd display and using the v8 sti thumb wheel and auto switch. dccdpro for the win imo sorry.(even though i like both and optical offers exceptional customer service
)Keep the thumb wheel turned down in auto on for daily driving in normal conditions
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Found a set of Tein Adjustables for a BG5 Legacy. WIll they fit a 02 GGA Wagon or will i need to change the top hats?
i've also heard you need to run camber plates to make them fit otherwise i would lose negative camber
bg5 brake line mounts via c clip and your bolt on to the strut so theres one obvious difference and if they aren't ride height adjustable then chances are your car won't sit right on the road.. Secondhand shocks market is a dodgy one imo,
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Qwerty used these things to fit phase 2 injectors http://www.carldavey.co.uk/product.php?id=2
Could do that and fit decap v5/6 yellows..
Alternatively I need to change intake manifolds soon probably to a top feed injector type one so my Sard 800s and rails will be surplus. Wont be for a month or two though.
Carl Davey is no more.FWIW you can buy his products from http://asperformance.com/
I haven't used the carl adaptors before just five0 and they work mint.
God dam our LOw $$
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Still need rails/mani so adds up. Their machine was down ages ago but he should see this anyway. Going to v1 mani gives bit more top end too. Also easier to flip for fmic.
No, these injector are same fitment as subaru ph2 injectors.
If yellows are that great capped then why you not run them?
Also five0 conversion ph1/ph2 kit works well if you can't be stuffed changing mani.
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Five0motorsport for match set of new jecs injectors from memory there 850cc sidefeed(p2) are about $500 landed.
Sell your yellows for 150 and buy new.
Think i read in other thread awhile ago Tony wasn't doing it anymore?
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Not sure if this is v8 wrx issue but the be/bh legacy black dash has issues similar with fuel gauge randomly dropping problem is dry/cracked soldier joints. could try removing the v8 dash and resoldier the contacts.. if there is a break in the soldier you should be able to see it if you look hard enough
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Well what bore size is marked on the block (all B?) first you have to strip the block,
check crank journals you can run early crank and there is nothing wrong with strength but the oil ports etc aren't machined out very well they got better through the years.
Throw away the rods and invest in some forged h beams with new arp bolts or find some v7 sti rods
I've got a set of hf pistons from v5 sti block that are good to reuse you can buy them from me(pm if interested) if you want/going this way. If your building a engine something over 20psi then you might want to go full forged. factory pistons are still a weak point but obviously cheaper option.
You real need to measure everything, the bores especially, remember they need de-glazing and machine shop is able to do this best(ie won't tapper the bores.. So thats when you should start thinking about new .50 oversized pistons new rings and bores machined to suit but obviously the safer option is always the most costly but most practical
If its just surface rust on the cam lobes clean it up with metal polish if its pitted use some engine oil and wet and dry 320g sandpaper.
- i'm gonna get some of those clear cam covers. 
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Will this fail a wof??
in Body
Posted
Its double skinned isn't it? looks like someones jacked it up from there,
the rust is more of a issue imo.
I would attack it with a slide hammer and metal tech the holes after its got some shape back and convert the rust and so on.