Koom
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Posts posted by Koom
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RDL how can i get ahold of them and you wouldnt have an idea on what they charge? im in invercargill but chch isnt to bad of a mission thats what they built trailors for...
Tony can be contacted on 03 349 9615.
Not sure what a twisted setup would cost but PM WRXER as he had this done a few weeks ago.
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Project Mu are pretty good too to add to that list.
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A TD05 20g would be closer in performance to a VF23.
The VF23 has a roller ball bearing core which will always spool faster than plain bearing, making it a more street able Turbo charger.
Of course the TD05 is more rebuild able and can be so for more power, but to a lesser extent so can the VF23.
At the end of the day it's all about setup.
A 20g is huge compared to the VF23.
A couple of years ago my flatmate and myself built nearly identical engines and I chose a TD05, he had a VF23.
With the same boost (15 psi), my car made 10 hp less but spooled faster so my torque curve was slightly more to the left than his. This was with the same tuner, on the same dyno a few days apart too.
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Do you know if they still have hydraulic lifter's?
/quote]
Sadly they do.
I will get sticky lifter's near it's 5000k oil change on a cold morning start.
I have seen good result's from forged EJ20's using RA heads (200kw plus) but really you're better off with something like V3 STI head's or even later model WRX head's (MY97/98)
Yeah I agree with that about the sticky lifters. I got sick of them and swapped to GTB heads a couple of years back and wouldn't go near hydraulic lifters ever again.
If I had managed to buy a standard RS-RA when I got my car I would have felt bad modifying it. I got a normal RS instead and love changing everything on it just for the hell of it ;D
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So what if any are the diferences between an ra and a regular rs engine wise?
/quote]
Fully blueprinted and hand assembled.
Port and Polished head's with gold alumite cam cover's.
Handfinished crank signed by early STI technician.
Forged pistons and rod's.
Do you know if they still have hydraulic lifter's?
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The only reason I have an issue with this is because there doesn't seem to be any documented evidence to prove/disprove that painting the front of it doesn't cause any ill effects. There is alot of people who do it and then say that its all good though, but no one has real proof. I've also painted the front face of mine and haven't noticed any effects but I don't even have IAT compensation in my ECU so I wouldn't have a clue what my intake temps are.
I agree with what you've said about the front face not effecting it too much as the cooling happens in the core. I have also seen the way that some people paint things (i.e. extra thick layers) and that's why I'm wary of the method of coating that some people choose.
[quote name='Koom said:
I'd be wary of using any paint that was too thick as it could create an insulating layer an negate the benefits of having a larger intercooler.
/quote]
Having that on your piping couldnt have the oposite effect however. Especialy on the return side insulating the cooled air from the heat as it passes over the engine to the intake.
Also a good point as once the air has passed through the core its not going to get any cooler when its passing through the engine bay so insulating the cool side of the piping through there would be beneficial.
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note to self never go to mt hutt sounds ridiculous
haha its not really all that bad. I've never actually driven my Subaru up there but used to take my Ford Laser (Ghia model, cause thats how I roll
) up there every weekend. Wack some chains on it and it would get 3 (struggle with 4) people up there easy as. Just couldn't lift off the go pedal for one stretch thats about 5kms long or else we'd be stuck in 1st crawling the rest of the way at less than walking pace. -
I've always thought that it would be a difficult test to get conclusive results from. Although if testing at least doesn't show up any major issues, then it could then be assumed that the effect of painting is negligible. But even if it changes the IAT by ~5 degrees (for example) for a given ambient temperature then that would be a bad thing.
For the record I painted the front face of mine with some generic acrylic paint but have no idea if it changed anything. Looks heaps better though
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Swindog']
[quote name='nt_a_foz said:
I used the heat poaint i painted my manifold and piping with ...worked all good/quote]
Just wondering:
In theory wouldn't using the heat paint defeat the purpose of having a front mount, since the paint was designed for use on manifolds to hold the heat inside them... ???
Apparently there's another type of heat paint that helps thermal conductivity. I think VHT do it. Haven't seen any but have never really looked but if it does exist it would be a much betterer idea than a normal paint.
Thinking out loud here.....wonder if anyone, anywhere has tested the intake temp's before and after painting the intercooler??
http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?topic=1644.0
I want my car to remain a sleeper/stealth. Can I paint or anodize my intercooler so it is not easily visible?
Yes! It is not uncommon at all for an intercooler and endtanks to be anodized black to keep attention away from the car and help it maintain a sleeper appearance. A very light coat of paint on the core and endtanks is also another option, usually much cheaper and easier than anodizing, with a negligible performance loss.
Yeah thats nice and all. But got any actual real world results and some temperature figures to back that claim up that it will have a negligible performance loss??
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This is how you drive in the snow
keep off brakes as much as possible(use gears and yes even in an auto the van i drive is an auto and i barely touch the brakes coming down)...
/quote]
Ruapehu cant be very steep cos when im coming down Mt Hutt in the forester i have to be on the brakes a lot, even when im taking it really really slow
Yeah Hutt is alot steeper than the Ruapehu roads but it also a totally different road surface. The worst thing about the Canterbury fields is people in 4WD's that don't use chains, compacting the snow into a thick layer of ice and making it harder for those in light vehicles (even with chains) to get traction. The steep bits of Hutt are often still just gravel though which helps alot for traction.
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I used the heat poaint i painted my manifold and piping with ...worked all good/quote]
Just wondering:
In theory wouldn't using the heat paint defeat the purpose of having a front mount, since the paint was designed for use on manifolds to hold the heat inside them... ???
Apparently there's another type of heat paint that helps thermal conductivity. I think VHT do it. Haven't seen any but have never really looked but if it does exist it would be a much betterer idea than a normal paint.
Thinking out loud here.....wonder if anyone, anywhere has tested the intake temp's before and after painting the intercooler??
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I'd be wary of using any paint that was too thick as it could create an insulating layer an negate the benefits of having a larger intercooler.
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madmike']
[quote name='madmike said:
Guess what i got LOL!!!!
img]http://file048b.bebo.com/21/large/2008/12/22/04/4592716964a9689495804l.jpg[/img]
Did you compete in the Otago rally last year?
Nope not me.
Car has been in north island all it's racing life
last big event it did was 07 Dunlop Targa.
Shale:
yep it's a bit of fun alright!
When I first saw the pic of yours I thought it may have been this one;
But noticed the number plates were different etc...
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I've got one. Black, not the tidiest but its fun ;D
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BC5RA']
[quote name='BC5RA said:
For starter's you shouldn't run a stiffer front swaybar, perhaps you should read up on Suspension 101
/quote]
Thats a bold statement
I run a 24mm front bar and an adjustable 22mm rear bar and my car handles brilliantly. I do have DCCD though
Yes.. thats already been pointed out.
Would you go ahead and put a thicker front sway bar on your FWD bias Subaru?
Depends on your suspension setup and what your rake and corner-weight's are.
Also depends alot on how you drive, where you're driving and what the main use of the car is.
It "could" be the best addition to someone's car (depending on how it is currently setup).
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Easy fix! By two of each wheel and put a pair on each side. That way you get the best of both worlds.
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Those wheels are becoming the Motoform Sekta's of the 2000's.
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If you're taking just the outer CV off (rather than the inner then the outer). The outer has a snap-ring inside the CV itself. To get the CV off the axle, hold the axle in a vice (wrap a rag around the axle to prevent marking it) with the CV hanging towards the ground. Then hit the CV off with a soft hammer. Try to hit the inner spider of the CV rather than the outer part of it too.
I usually just get someone to hold the axle, pull the boot up and out of the way and then give the CV a whack to get it off.
(The circlip is only on the inner ones and it is a larger wire clip that stops the balls coming out of their wee grooves in the CV cup)
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ok im sadly not in wellington. ive got a tool to flare pipe ends. that should be sufficient to do the fuel line ends?
I wouldn't flare the ends of the cut rails to fit fuel hose over. You run the risk of the flared end cutting the inside of the fuel hose. It is possible to get a tool that leaves a similar swage as the end of the factory fuel lines where the hose normally is fitted. Can be hard to find though but is the only safe option when cutting up the factory steel fuel lines.
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I use Ferodo Excels on the track, excellent pad!
Bit noisy around town but once they have heat in them they are really good.
In fact less dust than the others i have used and my rotors are still good! I wouldnt pick on them because they are Ferodos.
They're not picking on them just cause they're Ferodo's. In fact the guys above have said good things about Ferodo's.........the Formula Series and then the DS Race pads though.
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If your engine temp is showing up normal temp (and is staying at that temp) then there is quiet possibly a blockage in the heatercore. From memory its a prick to pull the actual heatercore out but a good way to check that it at least flows is to unhook the hoses where they go into the firewall and run some water through it from a garden hose. This way you should be able to figure out if its letting water through.
) up there every weekend. Wack some chains on it and it would get 3 (struggle with 4) people up there easy as. Just couldn't lift off the go pedal for one stretch thats about 5kms long or else we'd be stuck in 1st crawling the rest of the way at less than walking pace.
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afm and a possum bourne link cpu
in Engine Related
Posted
The PossumLinks use the factory MAP sensor.
They don't use the AFM at all.
Just unplug the AFM and see if it runs....