Koom

V-Limited's, both STI and non, also have the helical front diff.

I've never found Blacks to be the cheapest, but this kit isn't too badly priced. http://shop.blacksfasteners.co.nz/#/Product/info/COILB40293

If your car has a Cert, changing tyre sizes doesn't effect it. The height on the Cert Plate is the relationship between the hub centre and the guard, which doesn't change when changing tyre profile/width. The Cert does usually lock you into one particular wheel size i.e. 17 x8. But not the offset.

http://www.hardrace.com/Product_detail.asp?id=2807 I'm pretty sure that something just like that is what Tony used. Then modified the rack ends to be height adjustable to adjust out the bumpsteer. But the angle of your axles is dictated by the wheel centre and the height of the gearbox. If you want to go lower, you can't fix the angle of the axles by adjusting anything at the hubs, you'd have to lift the engine/gearbox up.

I doubt that it's possible as the CV joint would need to be in the same location as the strut mount. There are Roll Centre Adjuster kits which will achieve a similar result. Also need to correct the bump steer if the kit doesn't contain those parts.

The lower the level of Rallying, the louder the anti-lag must be set up! Its a rule haha. A proper antilag setup these days involves fresh air recirculation and a lot less popping and banging than what used to happen in the Possumlink/Link G3 days but I still wouldn't go anywhere near it unless you really, really need it. Cause it's otherwise a massive pain in the a**.

No worse that a service park during a Rally. Except it should also be either a) raining, or b) freezing and windy. Also add in a predetermined time limit and a grumpy driver who's busy watching the time penalties stack up

I'm guessing you mean chromoly? Which is a steel alloy that's generally tougher than plain steels. The factory ones are steel. Possibly plain carbon steel or low alloy content but likely to be chromoly as well. You could get some made but the cv's prevent you from making a super strong axle. As any axle is limited in outside diameter by the spline that fits the cv's at either end. Have you looked at the driveshaftshop.com to see if they do an upgrade axle/cv set for your car?

10% of 10.5" is 27mm 35% of 10.5" is 93mm So max/min offset of +27/-93 But I don't know how that equates to the factory wheels which are outside of that? But that also states that it's for transversely mounted engines too. Subaru's are longitudinal. Might be easier to post a question on the lvvta forum and get an answer straight from the horse's mouth. Or talk direct with a certifier. What flares are you planning on using?

Nice result! What fuel is that on? Just pump gas or gone for an ethanol blend?

Attacked it with a grinder and then the welder. Pretty much rebuilt the up-pipe and downpipe so far. All to move the turbo 10mm (+ decrease the angle it's mounted on) and fix up a leaking wastegate. Might even make a decent heat shield for the brake and clutch masters this time round!

Did the seat get left out of the wastegate when installing? Although that wouldn't explain why it can't hit peak boost, but would cause it to be slow to start to make boost.

Na can't see it............oh wait

From memory, yes, that is the case.

No IAT on the Possumlink. Also I wouldn't recommend going to the 3 bar MAP unless you really need to run a tonne of boost. i.e. Over 20psi. As you end end up with very few rows in the cruise area of the tune and it's a pain to try to tune down low.

Done it a few times using scrapers, wire brushes in a drill, strong cleaning fluids and also lots of beer. It sucks. So if you can do it using machine power, I'd highly recommend it!

I had nothing but good experiences with Spec. Explained everything that was going on through the process and had some really nice fabrication work done where they fixed the leaks in my intercooler piping. Their dyno was within 0.1 compared to my Innovate gauge which I took add meaning that my gauge wasn't as bad as I'd been led to believe (if you believe internet reviews) and the boost came out pretty much where it should be. Have to take my car back soon to finish it off, after I finally found the issues I'd caused that held it back from its it's full potential. Which they'd taken a huge amount of time to try to meet my expectations in the first place.

Some of the early afm's are pretty easy to open up and re-solder the main connections rather than replacing. Worth doing to rule that out anyway.

Massive air leak somewhere, freaking out the afm? Coils? I've had the early ones crack and cause similar running weirdness. Or something left field, like an intake hose collapsing and blocking the airflow?

Who else is still sad enough to have the same car that they started here with? Haha #myhandisup (I couldn't figure out how to fix my thermostat and it took me hours!)

1/2 motivation, 1/2 I can use my arm again after it was out of action for two months or so. Still gets in the way on done jobs...

Yup. Current issue was that both exhaust pulleys were far too advanced! Second hand adjustable pulleys had dints where the original owner had set them. After I originally installed them, they then moved themselves back to those original positions. A bit of filling and new bolts/washers should sort it all out though.

Finished re-timing the cams on my RS. Been an ongoing job since Sunday and did the last triple checks tonight. Not the easiest when you've got this much space to play in; Figured out (and rectified) the cause of them being up to 10 degrees out, so hoping for a bit more power next time it goes on the dyno Need to set it up to take some ethanol before then though.

Bought my BC5 RS with 140k kms and it took me about 3 engines to get to 270k kms. The last engine did about 90k kms of that (with many trackdays) before I blew it up. Latest motor only has about 500 kms on it so far.