Koom
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Posts posted by Koom
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Yeah they'll be close but it depends if he's got adjustable gears or now looking at it again, is he just saying that the marks on the pulleys don't line up perfectly (cause they never do).
Could have jumped a tooth at some point?
P.s. The cams rotate once per two crank revolutions so it's over 720°. So 3.75° per tooth.
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You can't tell if the cam centerlines are dialed in by looking at what the adjustment on the cam pulley's is set to. Half the need for adjustable pulleys on Subaru's is due to any machining of the block or heads changes the distance between the two heads and therefore changes the cam timing because the cambelt is a fixed length. So the timing can only be checked by physically checking the timing, not by looking at what the marks on the pulleys are set to.
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2) Again, lockup clutch. Since the CVT is mechanically connected to the crankshaft it engine brakes. Particularly noticeable if you shift the CVT manually.
Disclaimer: I don't know the specifics of the BR9 CVT as I've never serviced, replaced, or dismantled one.
What are they like from a drivers point of view? I've never liked normal auto's, partially due to the lack of engine braking among other things, but can a manually shifted cvt be fun to drive?
Only cvt I've driven was in a Nissan Murano and it was worse than a normal auto out on the open road. Especially up the twisty parts of SH1 near Kaikoura.
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For 5 years mine had been used to cover up the oil patches on the floor of my garage and also as a handy storage rack for various mtb parts and tyres.
Have recently retired it from that position and shipped it off to the doctors to see if it can make brrrmm brrrmm noises again. Might use it for weekends and trackdays if it survives.
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Put a Lexus V8 in it.
That's all wrong for weight distribution. Needs to be in front of the rear axle line unless you've got some of that magical German Engineering DNA in your fault tree that could make it work. How cool would a mid mounted v8 wagon be from a pure sh##s and giggles point of view? haha!
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Check the engine mounts. They often fall apart and would cause that type of feeling.
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www.raptorsc.com.au/subaru4.html
It's not a turbo but it is 80% of what you're after with the performance that you're looking for.
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GT Radial HPZ
And Bridgestone RE050a
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Are you running AVCS Koom?
I get boost from about 2500rpm and hits full boost at 5k. Agree with you on the load thing though, hard to build all the boosts in 1st and 2nd and after that you're doing a lot of kph.
That's with a (functionally) HX35 with a smaller single scroll housing that may not actually be super well suited to the turbo.
Still keen as to give a t/s 12cm a whirl though, both in single and twinscroll configuration.
Nope, no avcs. It used to be std V3 STI RA heads but now they've also been ported and polished. Also put adjustable cam gears on as the timing on the drivers side head was drifting miles off the correct centerline after machining the heads and block.
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Pretty much bang on how an hx35 with 12cm3 spilt housing reacts on an ej20 with single scroll up-pipe. Also, 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear only loaded it enough for it to hit about 18psi. Then 25+ in 4th but by that stage it's far from legal road speeds.
That's also why I stroked it in an attempt to lower the boost threshold along with twin scroll. The 4 year stand down period (because homeowner) has turned it into the 2nd longest running experiment in the history of science though!
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Could always run a Prodrive "rocket" system and have 30psi from idle
Which way around are you saying is a waste of gas flow? Twin scroll, single to t/s housing or with a qsv?
The single to t/s housing is a waste of time as the result is sh*te. But I still had a massive grin on my face every time it finally spooled!
[quote name='evowrx said:
See you at flatnats hamish.
Don't jump the gun there. Have to see if it holds together on the dyno first... Watch this space.
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And can you tell the difference when you are driving between a cheapish tyre and a higher end one? Sorry only have Ovations on mine, cost $140 each.
I thought that one of the arms in the rear of my car had lost a bolt. Turned out it was just the nankangs that I'd chucked on due to lack of job/funds at the time.
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I'm planning to get the 12cm twinscroll housing and try it both on my singlescroll setup and on a true twinscroll arrangement, eventually.
It's fun on a single scroll setup because after waiting a week for it to reach the boost threshold, all hell breaks loose and it flies! But it was slow as hell because of it. I could only get mine to spool before 5500rpm by loading it on the brakes. The car was better with a td05. Will find out one day soon how good it is with true twin scroll (all going well).
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I changed my fuel filter the other day.. forgot to take the gas cap off to relieve some pressure and got sprayed in the face with petrol. Oh well!
Gas cap wouldn't have helped. Best bet is to disconnect the fuel pump relay (or pull it's fuse, or leave the car immobilized) and crank it over to use up the residual pressure in the lines. They stay pressurised cause the fuel pump has a one way valve to hold pressure in the lines.
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About $72 delivered via ebay.
[quote name='tydon said:
where can i buy replacement studs and are they as easy as twisting them in?I think you can get them at Repco?
Or try a fasteners shop like EDL or Blackwoods etc. But you need to know both thread pitches and lengths.
To install them, put two nuts onto them that you tighten against each other, then use them as the head to screw in as you would with a bolt. They don't need to be overly tight either.
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Swapped it for a fat stack of Rutherford's.
Now I might be able to be a Subaru driver again! Stoked.
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The old flat that was the chch clubsub/submerge workshop.
The car that I was originally helping to build and beat back in the day.
Think this was the Clubsub track day when I first met Fastfour, Jammasta, Lorna and whoever the other north islanders who came south and my old age means I can't remember the names.
Akaroa cruise.
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Oh god, I'm so glad that's a photo of my good side!
I guess that's the south island version of the "blue steel" look haha.
Isn't that from the mtb club party? Good thing it was a bikes night and not a cars night aye.
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Well this is the 5000th reply in this thread. Its great that people are getting help, but a darn shame that the culture that created this thread in the first place still exists.
I'll be asking the Com to consider closing this thread. Clubsubers shouldn't be scared to post a new thread with a question. Sure, if the question has been asked/answered 50 times already then you might attract some negativity however I admit it's not been that easy to find/search things lately... (forever)
Having a whole bunch of useful info jammed into one post isn't helping either.
Hopefully this will change shortly. We are putting quite some effort into restructuring the technical boards, with a large collection of FAQ's and links, that should hopefully satisfy most of your 'dumb' questions and more.
I agree. So much good information gets lost in here.
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Here's a bc5 service manual.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6eqicpdpeh3apar/89-92%20JDM%20Service%20Manual_legacy.pdf?dl=0
Wiring in the section near the end of the manual. (30Mb).
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Could it be that the coil leads have been swapped between the two cylinders on the one side?
If it's got spark on all four, you could try swapping the leads to the coils, front to rear, on the side that's not firing correctly?
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If you've already got a 2.0L block, then I'd go with sleeves and larger bore version.
Personally, I've always preferred the idea of the de-stroked ej25 and using longer rods. But only if the intake and exhaust manifolds (including the plenum) + the heads are developed to suit a higher rev range.
Most of the time, a well spec'ed 2.5L build will be a better option.
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I usually jam a block of wood (usually the handle of an old hammer) between the sump and the crossmember to give a better angle on the engine if you're doing it with the engine on the car. I also only use the bottom two studs to align and bolt up the box, lifting the rear with the jack or by hand, and only worrying about the top bolts once it's in place. Otherwise I found I always ended up having a fight with the box similar to the one you're having.
Double check the clutch alignment too.
Often walking away and coming back to it later someone magically helps?
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Driveshaft loops lvvc
in Body
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50 x 5mm.