Koom
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Posts posted by Koom
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hmm shocks seemed to be in good nick they are going to be replaced in a few weeks . can you explain under damped springs?
By that I mean the stiffer springs may be too much for the existing shocks to dampen. So the car can feel floaty or bouncy. I had that with a set of king springs on original rs shocks and it felt pretty horrible. The shocks were probably a bit old at the time too which wouldn't have helped.
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Been running an A7 and now a J2... I did it when i was 16... its kinda basic.
gazzys doco makes it super easy to follow.
We are talking about bh5 rev A which is same as bh5 rev b and c as far as wiring is concerned.
Oops, I was thinking bg/bd when I read rev A and didn't read back through the earlier pages.
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Wiring is a peice of piss in rev A. All you do is bypass fpcm(found in boot) run an earth to the fuel pump solenoid thing to the ecu and if you dont use the wrx coil pack setup then just hook up ignition wires 1&2 to 1 and 3&4 to 2. Eeeasy. Im an idiot and I did it. Then obviously there is the breaking down of bbod. Not too difficult at all.
if you need gazzys wiring doco pm me I have it on file.
Was that to use the tt ecu to run it as a single turbo? To run a wrx ecu in a rev a definitely isn't a basic wiring swap. Rev b 3 plug is a piece of piss though and opens up the options of using a much better sti ecu.
A turbo'd ez30r would be fun..
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What's the best way to remove a stuffed turbo stud
If there's enough thread to get two nuts on there, put them on and tighten them against each other. Spanner on the bottom one should then undo the stud.
Next option is weld a nut onto it.
Disaster option is cut it off with a grinder and drill the last bit out. If you're super lucky the heat from grinding breaks the seal and it can be removed by cutting a slot and unscrewing with a flat head screwdriver. If not, kiss goodbye to lots of drill bits unless you can get it into a drill press.
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Yeah that's what I've assumed as well. I always just go back to where it was before it jumped, never right around.
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Sweet. Good to hear that you got it sorted. Once you've got those marks on the belt, it is quite an easy job (as long as nothing is seized)!
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If it's a phase 1 motor, then yes you can swap to the steel pulleys. Just double check that the sensor marks on the rear are the same as the ones being replaced.
You can't rely on just those marks on the pulleys to get the timing right, you need to do it based on the number of teeth on the belt between each of the marks. As all of them often end up pointing elsewhere once the tensioner is released.
I only have a link to an early bc5 engine manual and it looks like your dealing with a slightly later engine that has the different tensioner, so you'll have to Google for the correct timing marks. It's easiest to mark the belt with a paint pen (or twink/vivid etc) like a new one, then fit it to the motor.
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If there's nothing coming out the regulator it could be a dying fuel pump? Although they usually fail to start rather than fail to provide full pressure. So if it can pump out through the filter, should be able to pump through the rails and out of the regulator.
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Although thinking about it, doubt you could check those two points with them round the wrong way.
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Have you got the fuel lines around the correct way?
Check that the return from the fuel pressure reg goes straight to the firewall and not to the filter.
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For the injectors, detach the fuel hoses over by the filter/firewall and the lot comes off with the manifold. The loom also comes off with the manifold so unplug anything that attaches to the car.
There's water hoses that need to be detached from the throttle body and the idle control valve on some models.
I think the standard inlet to the turbo usual stays attached to the manifold too?
Basically, the manifold comes off the block and takes everything with it (except alternator, ps pump and ac compressor which have to be removed first). Need to unplug the loom from the cam, crank, water temp sensors etc as they stay on the block.
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Right so its bg5b ej20r. Does that mean yellows? I hate this early **** give me v5- aldae.
Yep. These ones are super easy to convert to single turbo and run with an sti ecu. Similar year wrx stuff may be similarly easy to set up. Have a look through the single turbo conversion thread as it was the bg5b that started it all.
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How hard is it to convert a v3 era bg with dead engine to wrx engine when you have a complete v4 front cut? Just swap in complete engine and engine loom or is it easier to repin?
If it's a bg5b, swap in long block, plug into existing loom and use the yellow injectors and afm from the legacy, convert to wasted spark and swap two wires at the ecu plugs. Plug in a v3 or v4 sti ecu and that's it.
If it's a wrx front cut, then it's my97 or my98. V3 or V4 is the nomenclature for the sti's.
If it's a bg5a, then it's a huge job. I did it by swapping the pins at the ecu end and modifying the existing engine loom to suit.
Pinout diagram with notes on differences between wrx and 4 plug bg5a ecu.
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Reading something interesting somewhat smart said the other day in relation to pipe size etc mightve been paul/22b but wasnt on there. Will see if I can dig it up.
As well as having rather long exhaust primary length, the ej engines have quite a short stroke which doesn't help with spooling a turbo.
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Have you checked for fault codes?
http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?4799-Full-list-of-fault-codes
Although I'm unsure if that still applies with the 99 models?
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An old flatmate had the same thing happen which he sorted by drilling a pilot hole from the underside, up through into the footwell on either side.
Then used holesaw to to put holes on the topside which he could drop nuts down into the correct place and get someone to hold with a socket while installing the bolts underneath.
Personally, I'd use weld-nuts and weld patches back over the holes.
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From memory Tony did the opposite. He upgraded to late model hubs, then re-drilled the flanges to suit 5x100 pcd wheels.
If you can find hubs then they're a better design on the later models. There is a difference in width on the part where the strut bolts to the hub and i can't remember which version wider? Nasioc and Google may have that info?
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Yea i did it with the car jacked up because i dont have access to a hoist or ramp.
I thought its ment to be at normal ride height when tightening it back up? Well thats what ive seen from some of the diy's from forums such as nasioc and iwsti
With the swaybar you mostly just need to make sure both wheels are off the ground, or at normal ride height. The problems start with just one wheel jacked up.
All the bushes on the wishbones/control arms must be finally tightened with the car at normal ride height otherwise the bushes will twisted and prematurely fail.
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The oil should show up on the dipstick around 3.5L.
There's about 0.5L up to the low mark then another 0.5L up to full. As far as I can recall?
So it should be nearly there.
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Dunno, mine were green. Depends on which dash you're trying to fit. If they plug in then they're the right ones
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It's not a huge job to just swap the necessary plugs for the dash if you want to swap that. I've got a modified white face my98/99 dash with electronic speedo in my bc5.
Failed to get the clock working though. Everything else works as it should.
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Dumb Question Thread!
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
It's often the fuel hose clamps need tightening. The fuel hose goes hard with age so the clamps need to be tightened. The one in the centre under the manifold is also the worst culprit as well as being the hardest to get to. Never seen actual fuel leaking out but have fixed the smell on a few legacies over the years due to loose clamps.