Koom
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Posts posted by Koom
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Haha nope. There's no way I'd put a restrictor anywhere near my car!
Still just waiting to clear debt before my car puts me back into the red
Mortgages are hard!
Accepting donations via PayPal. Should start a givealittle campaign
but then my first world problems don't really rate very high on the charitable status list. -
Not exactly my car but I brushed 3 years worth of dust off my flowbench, re-learnt how it's supposed to work, tasted 3 year old water when attempting to replenish the manometer (not high on my list of recommendations), fired up all eight vacuum motors (burnt out the controls for a couple) and did some testing on some restrictors.
Need to do some industrial strength rewiring on the control panel so that it'll run at full strength again but it's good, interesting fun playing around with various ideas and seeing a physical difference. All while trying to not go deaf or lose items of clothing into the test piece! 8x ~2000w vacuum cleaner motors through a 4" bore creates an awesome amount of suck!
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Stick it in a lathe and measure at top and bottom of the rotation?
Or on some homemade vee blocks if you don't have any fancy gear floating around?
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question, can I take the drive and gear cog out of a r160 4.44 and bolt it all up to a r180 3.9 diff and make it a r180 4.44
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/diffs-axles/auction-783470817.htm
like was been claimed in this auction
Not between an r160 and r180.
Are any of the r180's 4.444:1?
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Is this the site you're meaning? http://www.importperformanceparts.net/
Yes. Glad someone is sober driving this internet thing.
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Just building up the tension before the anti-climax...
Long dramatic pause (of 5 years)....
In "on topic" news;
Rods are better priced on www.importperformanceparts.com than staparts. About $320usd for a set. Cheaper again on ebay at $320nzd plus $30 ish for shipping. But still extra cost that may not be worth it for what Reuben is looking to achieve?
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Yeah the collectors on the early ones are quite different lengths (and even more unequal). They look the same at a distance but it becomes apparent when you put them side by side.
[quote name='DacerX said:
I hate having loud cars now, i think im getting oldSame. My RS is barely louder than my BMW these days. Took a few noise infringements before I got it much quieter than it was though to be honest.
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I understand what you mean by that 20g sound and it is amazing. My v4 doesnt sound like it and its kinda sad but its still fun, thats why i went out and got another first gen and am making this specific engine for it, not to the same extent as you but you know what i mean.
Half the sound is due to the different lengths on the cast elbows on the exhaust manifold. I put some on my gtb to make it sound similar to my rs back when that was mostly standard. The rest of the sound is likely from cam timing/tuning differences between the old heads and the tt shim over head I reckon.
That plus we used to be able to get away with running a 3" pipe from the turbo to the bumper without caring about noise levels. Rear seat passengers hated it though
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You have me thinking though, just how much are rods these days? They sure were expensive enough when I did beasts motor.
Rods are cheap. Even the m&h ones from sta parts are apparently good for moderate builds.
1.3mm gaskets aren't that bad if the pistons come up to the top of the block.
Also, a 2.2L block needs a 79mm crank! But thats a whole new hybrid kettle of fish to throw money into.
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Put a slight taper on the nut, with an angle grinder. Then hammer a 13mm socket onto it.
If he doesn't care about the mount, just put a grinder through the centre of the nut.
Or use a grinder to make two flats and use vice grips or nut f******s to undo it.
There's also nut splitters available but not sure if there's enough space.
Basically, a grinder will fix everything
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That looks rather straight and tidy!
If it's a low boost daily, then the rods will probably be adequate and probably not the bottleneck on a hybrid motor.
I just don't like those early rods as they don't handle revs. But my engines did also used to live up around the red line.
If it does have compression issues with your chosen mixture, you could just fix that the old school way with thicker (or thinner) head gaskets. Just need to be extra careful with valve to piston clearance and it's nice if you can achieve a quench height that isn't blown out too big if thicker gaskets are necessary.
I also wouldn't be too afraid of running it with the compression around 9:1. Should mean less boost is needed and more responsive.
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Dave may have found me some RS-RA heads in the fs section, the chart reckons those will give me 8.1, and not 9.2 compression. Good news for boost, but isn't there issues with mixing heads and blocks, with the early and late hydraulic engines? Afaik it's the other way round, can't put wrx heads on a legacy 20g block. Is that right?
I thought the issue was early heads on an ej20r (or k) block?
But it's been a looong time since I played with factory internals so i may be completely off track?
Is it really worth turbo'ing a 2.2 that's got standard internals? I just really hate those weak rods, even the turbo engine ones. A set of eagles are pretty cheap these days aren't they?
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Are there any caveats I should know of?
Does anyone have EJ22E piston dish volumes, and EJ20H/WRX EJ20G head volumes, so I can work out my compression ratios? I also want to make sure oil pressures remain up to the task, are the N/A and turbo oil pumps different (I've assumed they are the same)?
Try this for dish volume, head cc etc.
Can't vouch 100% for the information but it has been pretty useful to me in the past.
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The car won't know what's hit it!
Good to see it's getting some love.Not sure about the carbon bonnet myself but it definitely suited the zerosports kit better with the rear spoiler IMO.
Check the inside of the tyres cause they were always close to the bottom spring nut too.
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on another note, Where would I source injector o-rings in canterbury? and when you say "injector seals" you are referring to the o-rings? and am i right in saying that theres 2 o-rings to each injector? one in the rail and another sitting high up on the injector?
If you have sample o-rings;
http://www.sealhouse.co.nz/contact-us-xidc90517.html
Or SIL Seal Imports,
http://www.zoomin.co.nz/nz/christchurch/sockburn/nga+mahi+road/29/-seal+imports+ltd+christchurch/
Make sure they know it's for fuel too.
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OK I want to fit a solid rear diff axles etc to my track car as ive uprated the motor now and the r160 wont handle it, want to stay 5 speed, have a late V8 STI wagon 5 speed which is 4.44 cant seem to find a 4.44 r1800 arse end and the closest r200 ratio is 4.36 will that difference Make any noticeable difference
Yeah, it'll overheat the centre diff. Especially on the later model 5 speeds.
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Factory 205/50R16 read 10% high, seems silly to me. I was thinking there was potentially a way to digitally recalibrate
If you have an electronic speedo, Jaycar sell a little bit of diy witchcraft that can use to re-calibrate the speedo.
Can't remember what the kit is called though sorry.
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That's a tough one. Don't the wrx heads have hydraulic lifters (hard to tell without pulling the cams out).
Not sure if the valve covers are different between them?
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Even just some new fabric (rather than leather) would probably hold up well without looking out of place.
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Road dyno spreadsheet off data logs. Correlated with dyno on original setup and injector duty. So it's a ballpark figure but I've narrowed down the ballpark
but then my first world problems don't really rate very high on the charitable status list.
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Bathurst 1000 2014
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Was a mint race. The mid race intermission was perfect for a beer run as we were that unorganized this year.
That channel 7 link worked a treat too. Screw sky and their monopoly!