Koom
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Posts posted by Koom
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Thermostats are cheap. Replace that to see what difference it makes as your one sounds like it's being a bit dickey.
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Depends how confident you are with making wiring changes vs just swapping parts? It is a rather large job to swap those looms over though as the entire car is assembled around the loom.
Personally I'd just swap the plugs around at the end of the loom (free info: 3 of the four plugs are physically the same parts as the 3 plugs connected to the 7s ecu).
But I have done a few of those swaps and I love wiring. Many people don't....
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Got mine firing on all four with individual ignition rather than wasted spark. This is one of the steps that's been holding me back for the last few months (along with lots of minor wiring issues that "past Koom" had left as a present for me). So nice to hear it running again!
Also confirmed that the new muffler sounds good without being loud. Can't wait to hear it with some boost through the system!
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Sounds like a headgasket. Once you've re-fitted the radiator, try running it up with the radiator cap off. I make a little funnel with some thick rubber hose so that it has a small head of pressure as well (helps to bleed the system).
And keep a very careful eye on the open header tank. I reckon it'll keep blowing bubbles out i.e. headgasket failure
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Although I can't tell which setup that possumlink would be from the pics.
What is this "loom"that you have? Is it an adapter from the ecu to the plugs in the car?
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Here's all your pics. You just need to click on the share link icon, then select the link to paste here.
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You need to sign into an image hosting site like "photobucket"and upload your pics there. Then copy the link that it'll give you and paste it here to post an image. The link will have "img" tags or start with "url=".
Here's a comparison of the 4 plug ecu's that I've managed to chase all the pins over the years. The bd5a/bg5a pinout is completely different to the normal wrx or bc5 pinout. So you'd have to know whether your possumlink was originally intended for the normal layout or for the bd5a layout? I didn't think that they made a possumlink for the twin turbo, 4 plug legacy?
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Started it! Only taken a couple of months of frustration and fixing niggly little things haha.
So stoked to hear it running again!! Now to iron out the last of the electrical gremlins to get it ready for tuning.
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Sounds like its broken a weld nut. If it's a nut that's inside a chassis rail, you may have to cut the head off the bolt to get the subframe out. Sometimes if you're lucky, it's possible to get a spanner or vice grips onto the nut to get the bolt out.
Then the not so fun part, is trying to figure out how to weld another nut in its place without having to de-stitch the metalwork.
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Split hose or radiator end tank? I'd just run the car up to temp with the bonnet up and around about the time that the fans kick in, you should be able to see where it's squirting out from.
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That looks like a Tron version of an M-Coupe with a Mazda front end......
Need more neon stripes around the edges though.
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Could try either wrc developments in Napier or Dtech in Tauranga as they're both highly recommended and probably the closest to you.
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Flooded it. For about the fifth day in a row....
The damn thing will start soon! The joys of a small battery, a very slow charger, trying to map the ecu from scratch and a driveway which makes life very difficult to get another car close enough to jump start it!
Fingers crossed for tomorrow
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I was just watching the footage of his huge moment the other day. Makes you pucker up just watching it yet the guy in the silly seat barely reacts! It's funny to watch his eyes as he follows the road ahead as the car tank slaps it's way down the road.
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Thought the cop>coil pack?
Same, thought that was the general consensus. I'd recommend swapping the early coils for some of the 3 wire, internal igniter coils that were first found on the bg5b gtb's. Takes a bit of wiring though as you need to bypass the original external igniter, then run a third wire to each (from memory, they need an earth added, which joins together and is connected the back the manifold with the other sensor earth's).
They're a much stronger and more reliable coil.
If looking for issues on the original ones, look for any micro cracks on the ceramic insulation. Doesn't take much for them to start dying.
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I've recently bought a set of gt radial uhp1's to replace the hpy's I'd worn out and I quite like them as a reasonably sporty, touring ish tyre. Good value from mag n turbo. I'd run them on my Subaru much, much, much sooner than anything like a nankang/linglong/triangle etc.
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I've used http://www.japaneseusedcars.com before and they were really helpful as I went into it completely green and had no idea what I was doing. The main thing to consider is the costs of compliancing and importing duties. Also had to replace a few mechanical components i.e. brake rotors etc and give it a full service. Also drain and replace the fuel before using it as it could be months old and gone off.
I'd look at Ireland before the UK as they use less salt on their roads but for Subaru's or Mitsi's, Japan would be easier I reckon.
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All things must go up eventually
This guy and his theories around the concept of gravity may disagree with that statement.....
But back on topic, I do think it makes sense. I've always wondered why it costs the same to get a set of adjustables certed as it does to get a scratch built Lotus 7 type replica (for example). I am assuming it has been the one fixed cost so far?
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Looking at an ecu chip is 1bar 14.5psi too much for a completely stock wrx v1 or is it too much im currently running 12psi
I used to have a chipped ecu back in the day. Ran 14.5~15psi on grey injectors. Also had a full 3" exhaust. Was easily the best bang for the buck upgrade that I ever had on the car. The engine didn't enjoy life when I later upgraded to a td05 so I should have stayed with the vf10.
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Thanks Koom! unplugged the problem speaker, everything worked. Plugged in only the tweeter on that side, it worked.
Took problem speaker out, thought maybe it was kinking, swapped it around and bam it works. I'm very relived now.
All good! Just make sure it's all well insulated and secure, then you get to forget about it and just enjoy your new sounds
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Installed new speakers today and suddenly they stopped working.
I've checked all the fuses and nothing is blown. The headunit works fine and I can hear my sub working. Any ideas??
Could be all sorts of things. Firstly, I'd pull the head unit out and go back to the beginning i.e. check each connection to all the speakers individually. I have also seen a case where someone had a similar issue and it turned out that the connections on the back of the speakers were touching the metal the inside the door panel.
Also try connecting just one speaker at a time and swapping one known good speaker through all four channels make sure they're all working.
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Ej20g/h into 95 liberty
in Engine Related
Posted
I'd be checking both the wiring is correct to the ignitors/coils and that the wiring from the crank and cam sensors is correct.
The cam and crank sensor wiring changes color on some models (i.e. white is positive on one and negative on the other).
Is there definitely spark from each plug too?