Simon C
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Posts posted by Simon C
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I thought about their TS 1.5 XTR, but I've heard stories that their turbos are generally slower to spool than their specs suggest.
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No, something with exhaust runners that aren't a meter long.
Why do you think a 4G63 can spool a larger turbo considerably faster than an EJ20?
It's because they can have very large diameter runners (flow) without them being a mile long and taking ages to respond to transient changes in pressure.
An RB30 or 2JZ will always spool a turbo way faster than an EZ30... unless you go front'n'low mount but that's a mission.
Agreed, the stock EJ setup has a tonne of pipework to pressurise. Hardly the best design for spool. That's why the R35 GTR has its turbo hotsides cast into the exhaust manifold, likewise the turbos on the current VW Golf GTIs and Rs. Low mount turbo on a Subaru is $$$$, needs heaps of custom pipework, lines, scavenge pump, etc.
I was planning on getting a JDM GRB STi when I get back to NZ next year and do some upgrades to it. Want to keep the spool and transient response as close to stock as possible, but be able to use the entire 8000RPM of the EJ207 without running out of puff. I was planning on seeing what Steve Murch could do to upgrade the stock one, but given what you've said (no ability to upgrade to BB CHRA, limited options for wheels and housings), I might be better off to go straight one of the available aftermarket twinscroll options. Pity none of them are cheap. Thinking Borg Warner EFR 6258 (requires work to fit) or possibly the Litchfield LM400 (but that's $3k+). IHI RX6R would be wonderful but the price is insane. Other suggestions welcome.
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Hey, is anyone doing a trip from Wellington to Auckland or Hamilton in the next week or two? I\'ve got a set of bicycle wheels which need transporting. Payment in beer or petrol money.
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Last time I bedded in a set of pads was years ago, Mintex 1166 compound on my old Peugeot 206 GTi. The recommended procedure was 10-12 cycles of 100kmh --> 20kmH with full ball acceleration in between, then a cool down drive. Sounds a lot more vicious than what you\'ve described, and the pads were pouring smoke by the end.
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If they don\'t have a picture of your face in the speed camera photo, would not the duty of proof fall upon the police to prove that it was you, rather than fall upon you to prove it wasn\'t you? Innocent until proven guilty is a cornerstone of our legal system.
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I\'ve got a new set of Ferodo DS2500s in my car. I need to bed them in. Like most high performance pads, there is recommendation for multiple cycles of braking and accelerating to get heat into the discs and pads, and then a prolonged cool-down drive. The only place I know of outside of a racetrack to do this, and have room to keep going if (and when) the brakes fade is on the motorway. Would do it in the small hours of the morning. AFAIK this isn\'t illegal or a traffic offence in any way, I\'m talking max speeds of 100kmH. Does anyone else have any other suggestions? I\'m in Auckland, by the way.
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Ongoing urgent maintenance to the new car. Stupid Japanese owner didn\'t do any servicing for 80,000km!
So far:
Spark plugs
Engine oil
Transmission oil
Wheel alignment + camber bolts (completely out, running positive camber on front right and negative camber on front left!)
Replace crazy Japanese GPS stereo with something useable
Almost there, just need to flush the brakes and fit better pads next week. Big thanks to spark38 and mattapo for all your help!
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Thought 6sp was much stronger than the old 5sp boxes?
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That old Top Gear review where Jeremy compares the Evo VIII GSR against the V8 STi is actually a pretty good summary.
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The KW coilovers on my old car had helpers. Plush ride
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It\'s a 2004 facelift Honda Civic EP3 Type R.
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My new car has almost arrived in port. Once it gets complied, I need it brought from Wellington to Hamilton. I\'m a bit busy at the moment and can\'t spare the time to fly down and drive it back. Can anyone recommend a transport company to get it up to me? Cheap is good, but good is good as well.
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Does the ethanol content in E-10 eat hoses? Big PITA if BP Melling no longer stock 98.
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I had a lot of problems selling my V7 RA Spec C over a year ago, with a lot more rare parts and power than your car, similar mileage and well maintained. Unfortunately you\'ll really struggle to get $18k for your car, $15k would be a much more reasonable expectation IMHO and you may even have to be prepared to accept lower.
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I\'d go for Race Comp Engineering Yellows, but H&R are good too.
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Have you still got your GT3071 Funky? Haven\'t been following your build thread. I almost bought one of those myself, but as you know I ended up with something smaller (GReddy T518Z, which doesn\'t come in twin scroll AFAIK). Litchfield in the UK also do twin scroll turbos for Subaru, but they are $$$.
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I thought Big Day Out was no longer happening in NZ?
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These photos are a bit old, they were taken in late 2011 at a supercar experience my wife got me for my birthday. Camera is a Nikon D700, lenses were a Zeiss ZF2 21mm f2.8 and Voiglander SLII 40mm F2 from memory.
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I\'ve always liked SSR Type C. They also happen to be one of the lightest rims available.
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Yes, it can be done. Not quite straight forward though. The HIDs have different plugs and different numbers of bulbs. Also, I ran a relayed setup. I got Lightwerkz in the USA to custom make me a plug-and-play adaptor harness, it made everything a lot easier. Even then, Jason had to swap some of the connectors to make it all mate up properly. We couldn\'t figure out where the factory ballast mounts went, so we just discarded them and drilled mounting holes for the ballasts directly under the HID housings. Worked fine.
Be aware that the Spec C doesn\'t have the sensors and wiring for the levelling motors, so there will be an unfilled plug at the back of the housings once the conversion is done. Dunno if that makes the HIDs illegal in NZ, but they are illegal in Europe without the levelling function.
The HIDs got sold off when I parted out bits of the car prior to sale. Figured I\'d get more for them separately than selling them with the car. Also, they\'re a lot heavier than the factory ones, so you will violate the lightweight spirit of your Spec C if you go HIDs!
You can retrofit HID bulbs into non-HID housings, but because HID outputs a completely different pattern of light distribution from the bulb, the reflectors will not work and you will get a lot of blinding scatter rather than a tight focused beam. You may actually end up seeing less, despite the extra brightness! This is why I went with factory HIDs.
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Er, so what's on it now?
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VF Turbos what you need to know in laymans terms
in Engine Related
Posted
The flip side of that is that we get nearly 8000RPM to play with in STi form. But yes, the FA20 is a square design with a factory "low mount" manifold design, so much better suited for spooling a turbo as is the fashion with engines these days.