viperguy

Just wondering if anyone out there might know what these Springs are meant for... Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

and lets just say security has been ramped up significantly...

Never got her back, but have just started dating her hot sister...

heh im just dreamin, no idea really where to from here, such a pain in the ass

Yeah you too, looks like I'll just have to get that 2015/6/7 STI after all, looking on the bright side and all that

Sorry to hear about that, seems like someone was out shopping, mine was nabbed too, similar situation, fully alarmed but not a peep out of it

Welp I guess it happens to us all...as of last night my baby has been taken from me: Light Silver 1997 WRX wagon, rego CZM794, notable features I guess would be the 3" stainless exhaust? Other than that completely stock looking besides: light window tints, rear hatch sticker removal, antenna is a bit askew, and not particularly fancy wheels (17" 5 spoke style "shadow chrome?" colour)...taken from Houghton Bay road between about 1am and 7am Car had an AVS alarm and was literally outside my bedroom window so its pretty amazing that they can get them so stealthily....

awesome, cheers heaps for that, just like mine is doing on the plus side, it took sweet f**k all wd40 to get the actuator arm moving smooth as butter, just squirted a bunch of it up into where the arm comes out and a bit down the housing pivot and cycled it a bunch of times, feels good as new and no more rattling at idle not looking forward to the smoke tomorrow though so drama over thankfully

could someone snap a pic of how far their actuator pivots the wastegate arm....I just want to double check that this new downpipe i got installed isnt interfering with the wastegate opening fully as I cant remember how far it used to move.... wastegate arm is currently rotating about 30-45 degrees at full actuator extension at a guess...but I've yet to go for gold at freeing it up and getting it moving smoothly

oh ok, cheers for that!

are they hard to source? trademe sure didnt seem to offer me much

no need to wait, I found the issue after a little poking and prodding and banging around: Sticking wastegate! mechanism is really stiff and the spring tension does'nt appear to be enough to close it fully so its just resting there rattling away at idle but if I pushed it closed its whisper quiet. So I guess does anyone have any hints and tips they've found that work well before I go crazy with the finest lubricants money can buy

fingers crossed, lets see what the weekend brings

all there as far as I know noise seems very turbo-area-centric, I'd have thought a header shield rattle might sound a bit more "everywhere" in the engine bay being down under the engine...but i guess the downpipe area is a natural place for under-car sounds to resonate up through....

headers are all stock, did have a new stainless turbo-back system thrown on by Midas last week which included a new up-pipe, but I'm pretty sure I'd been hearing some noises before that...maybe I'll throw the car on the wheel ramps this weekend and go hunting before I get too depressed (or hopeful?)

Well howdy all, I suspect my VF23 is on the way out, theres a distinct rattle coming from the turbo area that sounds like a loose metal cover (although theres no covers nearby as I've removed the heatshield any years back). Theres no scary sounds audible when driving, I just catch it when idling at the lights etc The noise comes and goes with RPM changes and I'm not noticing the smooth ball bearing turbo spool-down whine Im used to when I turn the car off. Power is the same as I can tell, theres no noticeable changes in how boost comes on or is kept, just the rattling noise, oil changes have always been at 5000 with 5w30 Castrol Edge. Turbo has in my estimate ~160k on it So seeing as I just had a cam belt damage scare caused by a bolt that came loose and bounced around inside my cam covers I'm very cautious about funny noises now and a grenading turbo is not something I want to deal with... So I guess my question is: What can I actually replace these good old things with nowadays that isn't like hunting for a unicorn? Im not chasing more power, just something that comes on about the same time (or lower) and carries that power up to 6500 or so. Cheers everyone

well since i had a spare $7 laying around I decided to put my trust in the internet and bought the exact steering wheel remote pictured above off Ali Express....so I guess updates to come once it arrives.

done like a done thing

this is a nifty gadget I've included in the system now, its a USB powered access point (can run in multiple modes) but i have it set as a regular access point so that the car has a hotspot for people to connect to and use Shairport (link here) to airplay music to the carputer, at least until Apple breaks it with their next update...not bad for like $45 and in the background next to the old carputer is a new USB hub I had to put in because the NUC doesnt have as many USB's as the old machine (I also liked the idea of only having one USB to plug in and out any time I removed the carputer) and heres the centre console connections i mentioned: Pretty self explanatory, just need to silicone them in place...also shown here is the hackery i put in place to drive the carputer, the out of place electric mirror control interfaces with the carputer....Up is music, down is music videos, left and right skip to the next song/video, dont really have a use for the other buttons but they dont really work proper anyways due to how the whole assembly physically is wired so im still on the hunt for a decent control interface...ive been looking at something like this http://www.3dconnexion.eu/products/spacemouse/spacenavigator-for-notebooks.html for a multiaxis usb peripheral, but its a little bulky to really live there so im considering an IR based steering wheel remote like you can get with headunits, like so as an example since the NUC has a built in IR receiver: but havent given that too much thought yet...

and some new shots, interface wise at least of android... the new power supply attached to a plate for insulation and adhesive purposes (i double-sided it underneath my headunit behind the screen), the supply has 4 connections (visible bottom right): ignition sensing, permanent 12v, ground and an anti-thump connection which is meant to turn your amps on, but since my headunit does that ive used it to drive a relay which powers up the LCD screen out with the old...

Just as a start before I get the retroactive ones back up, heres a comparison of the old carputer vs the new NUC one...

my old pics of the project? probably died due to me dropping my imageshack account, happy to stitch them back in if you want.

Well just because I like zombies, there's actually updates to the Carputer saga!!! As I was in need of a new project, I decided to go with Carputer MK3, this time around based on an Intel NUC which due to its tiny size will now live in my glove box. For a couple of reasons, easy serviceabaility and and totally frees up the boot. No major changes to the system besides re-routing cables, but I did need to get a new carputer PSU as the NUC only has a DC input, but I sourced a PSU that still ties into the ignition, but tells the NUC to turn off via USB and the NUC just turns on when its gets power via the DC jack. New items are a centre console USB port and 3.5mm input for guests to charge their phone or play audio via the Carputers line in jack. Still the same software running the show, just a bigger capacity SSD (well a 256GB NVMe M2 stick), also experimenting with dual-booting android (as well as Android via a Virtual Machine which could be embedded into my carputer software) now that Android Auto doesn't need a compatible car or headunit to work since I'm itching to have native Google Maps functionality. Some nice additions Ive been playing with are that I've automated the media syncing process using Eventghost so that when the carputer boots (or resumes from hibernate) it pings the server via WiFi and when it gets a response it then runs a batch file via Robocopy to mirror my music video and music directories from the server to the carputer. If there are no pings (like when starting away from home) then it just times out after a minute or so.

I tried George Stocks, but he said he wasnt getting them in any more because he needed to order them in in sets of 20 or some BS, but did propose some Koni inserts for an expensive price...like $450 a corner (that might have included installation if you sent your old struts to them I think)

good old eBay, seller had plenty of good reviews so just went with it and he rigs it so you dont pay anything for customs, reports the value as something cheap as it was from this guy http://stores.ebay.com/70after-Racing/KYB-/_i.html?_fsub=4817933015&_sid=998702205&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 tbh the hard setting would get old really quick on the street, so its pretty stiff, wide open would be pretty close to factory, but then again my struts had 200K on them so cant really compare to factory I have them set to half front and rear and its a nice firm ride. I notice quicker turn in because of the higher damping meaning you arent rolloing the body then starting to turn, things like that. probably worth noting I have King Springs (Lows) as replacement springs