viperguy

just an update, have added bluetoothing with my phone so can make and take calls with phone still in pocket, computer also reads emails to me

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqTJGgEyLYE youtube demo, available in 720p also... a plus side of it sticking out like that is that it rests at a great viewing angle, so not all bad really

Couldnt have wished for a better day here in welly for the carputer screen install, no real dramas besides having to make a custom USB joiner, I would have liked to have got the motorised screen i wanted originally as the one i have now sits proud of the dash a little bit due to the fold-out mechanism, and the fact WRX's are skimpy on the space behind the din panels I didnt bring the CD headunit out of the dash to match the screen because i couldnt easily get the cup holder out, but it shouldnt really get much use now besides volume control, which in practise is still readily accessible even with the screen out things still to do are attach my evoscan usb adapter, and permanently mount the gps unit and the wifi antenna somewhere they can get a good signal Pulling out existing screen Freaking out over amound of cables to stuff back in the hole test fitting location trimming dash bits to fit new slighty wider screen the other side test fitting slots dash back together choosing a location to hide excess cable mounted line input to pioneer head unit box for PC audio this was a usb adapter i had to make so that i didnt have to deal with butchering the cables that came with the new screen, or run a new usb cable through the car to the boot.... $7 well spent tested and hot-glued so no magic smoke gets let out of anything important carputer screen joins prior to securing to crossbar behind glovebox all back together after 4 hours of messing around

and i would stay away from Infinity amplifiers, I bought one recently and it sounded like ass, absolutely no depth to the sound, I immediately replaced it with an Alpine.

well finally after weeks and weeks of drama i finally got me hands on a screen to use for the carputer, gave it a trial tonight and works pretty damn well. I r much excited to get it installed this weekend, probably throw some videos up on youtube on the install if theres any interest.

or this stylish install http://www.mp3car.com/blogs/142159_iPad--System-Wide-Voice-Control.html

yeah I'd like there to be another way but i need to keep the headunt for all my EQ and active crossover duties

good luck mate, theres like 2 in-dash single din units on the market and one just dropped off recently, Ive had ebay nightmares trying to source one. The one I'm trying to get hold of at the moment is by Xenarc (700IDT) its a 7 inch widescreen, non-motorised, 800x480 native resolution touch screen http://www.xenarc.com/product/700IDT.html you can pick them up for about 420US + about 60us for shipping or so sadly not the prettiest unit but beggars cant be choosers

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,9493.0.html http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,7722.0.html pretty sure theyre open deck, I've been running for about 50k with the sti power upgrades (and a boost controller holding it at 16psi) along with a couple of track days and no ill effects so far so as long as these blocks arent raped they handle mild power improvements just fine in my experience

you'll definately want to do the turbo, the td04 is a fail once you've driven with a bigger one, but brake upgrades and handling are always an excellent follow-up to moar power if you do nothing else, uprate the rear sway bar to a 22mm adjustable job and tweak to your liking, anti-lift kit is an excellent move also, and slap some 4-pots on there. From there improvements depend on your pocket and passion

if its anything like my 97 wagon, in stock setup you'll have roughly 130-140kw at the wheels what you want to do is throw an sti turbo, ecu, airflow meter, and injectors at it, and you'll have an instant 170kw atw

having run them for my last 2 sets before moving to RE-001s, i would say wet performance is fairly similar, shoulders wear like crazy on the t1rs as mentioned, ride comfort is quite noticeably worse on the t1rs as is road noise, and dry grip in favour of the re-001s I managed to pick the re-001s up for 192 each fitted at Tonys, but for value for money the toyos are great

progress so far-ish, on the right is the power supply, on the left is USB, audio, and vga cables, at the top is the isolation relay connected to the remote turn on module. Have been tinkering with the front-end recently while i wait for the screen to show up, my favourite at the moment seems to be Centrafuse The computer itself have just been sussing out bluetooth features (via a usb dongle i had laying around), mostly using iphone for audio playback, but just about to test out pc phone control. The idea being phone stays in pocket but can use touch screen to select contacts and make a call and use pc for speakers/microphone.

shutdown controller will probably be via one of those usb I/O boards which gets a feed from something which shuts off with the ignition, and startup is fine, when cranking my battery drops to 10v which the dc/dc converter i have seems happy to cope with

could have luck with the netbook remix as a usable interface, dont remember getting mplayer happy with mkvs and 1080p .movs i use a lot of though

i would probably shy away from linux myself, I've often had a tinker with it to see how the development is going, but for ease of day to day use and setup windows still wins for now, particularly with regards to hardware accelerated graphics playback and codecs, I know linux has full support for it but it doesnt quite work that easily out of the box that, and there are 1 maybe 2 carputer specific front ends designed for it ...besides, would you really want to keep typing into command shells on a 7" screen ;D

not really, a touch screened laptop would be more expensive

nope, they supply linux drivers

Computer comes with a vesa mount which i will mount somewhere in the boot of my wagon, and I'll probably run a copy of win7 i have kicking around, puter is plenty fast enough to support win7, and will probably dual boot linux for war-driving as far as purpose goes, 95% will be music player, Music videos and movies when parked up, some war-driving, car-mounted video camera capture as well as OBD logging/track day GPSing, bluetooth handsfree calling is another option using the car stereo. Automate my intercooler water sprayer perhaps...really just going to get the hardware in and see what practical uses i can justify it with

well i decided to bite the bullet and install a computer in my wrx, system so far consists of a Viewsonic VOT132 (quadcore 1.6Ghz Atom with an Nvidia 9400 on-board graphics). I ran some decent gauge wire from one of my amps under the passenger seat (permanent power to the battery via 4 gauge cable) and routed that to the trunk with a cigaretter lighter socket wired to the end of that to provide power. on the +12 side i inserted a car horn relay (good for 30 amps but should only be drawing 5 or 6 max) with an RF triggering system (just a garage door remote really) so that i can apply power to the carputer and have it turn on remotely for admin purposes. Power is provided via a 150 watt car laptop adapter from jaycar as the puter runs off 19v DC. Screen will be an in-dash motorised touch screen fed with a vga signal, just ebayed it yesterday so will hopefully turn up next week. Have already routed a couple of usb's up to the glove compartment as well as an audio cable to go the aux in on the headunit. Costs so far: Computer: 570 (with no OS) Screen: 1100 Jaycar power supply: 90 remote turn on thingy: 50 Level of unnessecerity: priceless

sounds fishy that 2 cables from 2 different kits have the same fault, I'd be looking at either amp or headunit at fault but then again stranger things have happened Whats the symptoms, no sound out of the left channel? could be something as silly as L/R faders being set hard to one side in the headunit, or the amp input gains set way too low on one of the inputs

sounds like the capacitor theory is debunked anyways, i read a post that calculated that the time for a 1 farad cap to drop from 13.8 to 10 volts was like .44 seconds

heh nah, got the power sorted with one of those car laptop power supplies...its just that the output of the dc to dc laptop power supply drops from 19 nominal volts to like 4v when you try and start the car. Will likely solve the issue with a little secondary battery with an isolation relay/diodes or maybe see if one of those 1 farad caps could do the job, do you know if theyre good up to 19 volts?

a nettop (viewsonic VOT132)...$570 for the computer, 90 for the power supply (DC to DC), 700 australian for the screen, fairly cheapish for an off the shelf computer in the car with 320 gigs of music and videos. The only issue is how to maintain power when cranking

ooh nothing like a swag of toys, wish i had new things.... I'm working on a carputer at the moment but dreading having to spend a grand on the touchscreen