viperguy
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Posts posted by viperguy
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better than most im sure, but not as good as none
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that amp might be a bit light to properly power those speakers...i can highly recommend powering the tweets and mids seperately off the amp (so using all four channels for just the fronts) and using the network mode (which gives you a sub/mid crossover and a mid/high crossover) if the headunit has it, it really cleans the speakers up getting rid of those dirty passive crossovers
its not all bad having the holes in the parcel tray...it'll let the sub air movement into the cabin so you can hear the sound not just feel the vibrations
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frankly on the mods path, i find handling mods put the biggest smile on my face
lower it a tiny bit, uprate the swaybars and end-links, put an antilift kit on and be amazed how much faster you can get around without any extra power
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dont get tein s-techs...the 's' literally stands for stylish-spec...they handle like pillows
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pre-megameet task # xxx
tighten wheel nuts so right front brake doesnt rub in corners...
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i wondered why vtec was showing up everywhere ;D
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smoke might just be coolant in the up-pipe from the turbo swap, i remember getting coolant in my up-pipe when i did my turbo swap and i made a thick foggy smokescreen down an entire street until it had all boiled off, so see how she runs with the proper afm...
also i found my VF turbo made that sexy spinning down noise that the TD turbo didnt (i went td04 to vf23) so possibly nothing to worry about there fingers crossed or my ones poked as well
but has been going just dandy for the past 40K's -
washed and waxed and had to buy a clay bar for the roof crud :
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...sigh...they only had one of the non-adjustable 22mm one in stock, bit of a mixup with letters it would seem
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It is temperature related, not just heat but cold too.... Its the expansion/contraction of parts in the car/alarm brain that will be picked up by the shock sensors first stage as they move with temperature. You guys can adjust it down but if it doesn't annoy you then I advise you just to leave it there and have the sensor working in that mode. At least you know the alarm is working
Brad
makes pretty good sense, no harm in having any lurkers reminded that its alarmed as well
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adjustable FRONT?...
just clarifying
yep front, i already have the 22mm adjustable rear on the hardest setting, so its going to be an experiment really to see if it helps the overall handling,
ive done enough reading (and my personal experience, i have the 22mm rear bar on the hardest setting) to figure out that just doing the rear does help a lot with the balance on a stock(ish) setup, but as regards to improving overall grip levels i couldnt really say, but i feel that doing the front should also have tangible benefits in helping prevent understeer for the obvious reasons of helping the front wheels stay flat on the ground
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SAS in the hutt (petone?) just have a new shipment of these in, charging me $250+gst if anyone is interested in getting hold of one
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interesting, I too have an S5 (thanks AVS) and have never heard it cherping myself (untouched) but Leith was saying a month or two ago, one realy hot day it was cherping away. so maybe its something to do with sensors getting hot?
/quote]
yeah i've always had a feeling when mines randomly chirping away (sorry neighbours) thats its temp related.
mine does it during the night, so methinks its not temp
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I've also got a query for the AVS guys about my alarm.
I've got a S5 in my WRX and when its alarmed it randomly chips 4 times. Theres nothing touching it, all the doors and windows are shut and it appears to happen utterly randomly. ??? sometimes itll do it once, others many times while its sat there.
The manual makes no mention of 4 chirps unless its been activated, but this happens when its just sitting there. Its chirps then continues as if nothing had even happened, and it doesnt inform me of it having been activated while it was alarmed when i disarm it :-\
Its really quite odd. Other then that, its a really good system, it seems much better then the other alarms ive had in the past!
i have the same issue, i presume its just some uber-sensitive shock sensitivity...i just explain to anyone within earshot that my car is demanding to go for a drive
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i just threw some re001s on in the weekend...seem comparable to the toyo t1r's i had on previously...the re001s feel a bit grippier if i had to make a call on it (on a little test drive over the paekakariki hill) and quieter as well, got mine for $192 a corner fitted and balanced from good old tonys tyre service
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hmmm, you wouldnt happen to have an ini file for a 1997 sti? i successfully got the ecu id but it doesnt seem to be too happy playing with the supposed match in the standard ini file, some readings are garbage while others alternate between something sensible and zero...
this is all using the evoscan ssm cable, the evoscan software works very well by the way
i performed a scan with the ssm dump program, but wouldnt have an idea how to quickly figure out which address corresponds to which sensor apart from the obvious method of disconnecting the sensor itself and narrowing it down via trial and error :'(
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ooh, they turned up today...bring on the weekend
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Yeah those are the ones I'm about to put in with my new 4 pot recond brakes. MP Autoparts sell them at $115 approx (maybe thats trade price)...
Currently using Bendix ultimate which aren't too bad, pricewise they are $160 trade at BNT.
price i was given over the phone from znoelli was $96 less 15%, i presume theres a little shipping on top as well, will see when i get invoiced...
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my 97 GF8 with sti ecu +vf23 = 10L/100k around town....open road 9L/100 (light-foot cruising)....on the track 24.5L/100k
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yep, i called the fullas up to order a set, club subbers get 15% off, cant complain about that
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ditto, no noises here...did notice some initial NVH over stock straight after fitting but for the benefits of the upgrade its all pluses in my book
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haha, ive got a 90x4 rms alpine amp and that is powering the tweets and mids directly, just need to lower the tweets level in the headunit a couple of notches as theyre a bit bright otherwise. Yes with more power at hand if you crank the system to ear bleeding levels theres a better chance you could blow speakers, but whats worse for speakers is clipping the amplifier output at high volumes and pumping DC into them, which there is more of a chance to do with a lower rated amp...but frankly in the real world it really doesnt matter too much, you'd be deaf first