zarnah

have you fiddled with a boost controller or something? sounds like fuel cut to me when the pressure sensor senses to much boost it tells the ecu and the ecu cuts the fuel, and yea it can be quite violent, feels like the car is trying to chuck you out the windscreen

the actual plugs dont flash!!!! lol you plug them together then turn the ignition on and watch your check engine light on your dash to see what code it tells you. stick ya head down under your steering wheel end look up in behind the dash you will see them hanging there amongst all the other wiring

turn ignition right off, under dash above the pedals somewhere you will find two little plugs hanging down, plug them together. Turn ignition back on and read the code the check engine light gives you, slow flashes are tens, fast flashes are ones, for example if it flashes slowly four times and then fast twice it means 42

im just changing the fronts, will I have to bleed all four? also by flushing it right through do you mean I should just bleed all the old brake fluid right out through the system and start afresh? also whats a good fluid to use?

Going to put my big brakes on my legacy soon and was wondering how exactly to bleed them, (I know the basic principle of how to do it, someone on the brake pedal, someone on the bleed valve etc) but I have only ever done them on my dirtbike, which is easy peasy, do I have to bleed them in a certain order ie: drivers side first, then passenger side? any help would be great.cheers

ok cool cheers i'll price them up tommorow.

repco wanted an exact model code as all of those chassis codes also come in non-turbo etc with lower spec?

so whats the diference? my legacy has been converted to rwd, properly, locked centre diff, removed front shafts, custom front hubs, etc, my original diff blew and now I have another r160 in it that my mechanic freshened up (new seals, shims etc) and it seems to perform like a lsd should, locks up nice and quick under acceleration etc and has lasted well under the abuse it has recieved. I have been told I should get a r180 diff, what diference should I expect from a r180? failing that, how much would it cost me to get parts/labour etc to do a cusco conversion like loren?

dont all turbo subys have lsd rears anyway?

ok just bought myself some 4 pot calipers and rotors for my legacy (gen1 facelift) the calipers are mint but the rotors are a bit shagged so im thinking of just buying some brand new ones from repco. Since they are not factory fare on my car I have no idea what code or model of car etc I should give them? anyone know? also anyone know the order code for brake pads for this setup?( just for future reference) cheers

does a quick rack give you more feedback from the road? thats what I liked about driving it without the powersteering connected, was more like driving a go-cart! also it doesnt actually make it to hard to steer unless the vehicle is at a pretty much stop

open bonnet the pressure sensor is on the drivers side strut tower facing towards you when you open the bonnet

well i just got my new engine in and running today and before hooking up the power steering I took it for a drive and I quite liked the feel of it. lot more feedback and a more "planted" feel on the road, I know it would be a prick in tight spaces but im willing to sacrifice. Is it legal to do? ie: will I still get a warrant etc??

anyone here removed their power steering? pros? cons?

ok well now for the happy ending, went out this morning and hooked up all wiring, vacum lines, front mount etc, turned it over and she burst into life straight away!!!!! thanks for the help guys, no doubt any sth islanders will probly see me rolling round the south once again!!!

everyone should just go to their local wreckers and ask for an input shaft from a buggered box!! it works mint!! definately putting my one in the toolbox

success!!!!!!!!!!!! I cut the input shaft off an old box I had and used it to line up the clutch before bolting up the pressure plate, stuck it back in the engine bay and hey presto!!!!

ok so im guesing it just lets the clutch plate move a bit so it "pops" onto the input shaft rather than being solid and having to have it prfectly aligned? i'll go give it a go and let you know how I get on, I just wanna get the damn thing driving again!!!

how do I line it up? I took a rough guess and looked at the clutch plate and the input shaft from gearbox

ok well i'm in the process of swaping my engine in my legacy, (old one was BEB victim) I have the old engine out and have the new one in the engine bay but the problem is that I cant seem to get it to bolt right up to the gearbox, I can get it pushed on most of the way (untill theres about a 10mm gap) but it just wont go any further!!!! grrrr its making me so mad!! so close but no cigar so far, any ideas???

my mate also just bought a 1995 gt manual wagon 130k and it sortoff does the same thing, if you turn the key on you have to wait about 20 seconds before you actually try wind it over or it simply will not fire at all, and if you stuff it up ie: you jump in and try crank it over without waiting for 20 seconds, then its a real prick and usually have to leave it for an hour or so before it will start. Other than that its a mint car, runs real nice and dont think its had a hard life at all, checked error codes and it didnt throw anything. We thought it was the turbo timer was faulty so we disconected it and tried a brand new one and it still did it, also thought maybe the fuel pump wasnt coming on with the key but it checked out ok........?????????????????

and as for the air taking longer to get to the intake, I dont think it would end up much longer anyhow if I modify the Ypipe decent enough..... maybe I should try it just for shits n giggles, got a spare ypipe I can hack up and a spare frontmount cold side pipe......

no i was thinking of hooking the water to air up properly with the pump/heat exchanger etc, just thinking if the air is already cooler when it goes into the water to air, and that cools it even more, then its gotta be a bit of a gain somewhere?

for a cheap job you could just get the mechanic to do the one side that blew, although any good mechanic will strongly advise you to do both sides or you could end up doing the other side anyway 6 mnths down the track, costing you more time and money. Unfortunately subarus are not the the cheapest to do head gaskets on, and my engine was also due for cambelt etc which is why i just went with the new engine, I think i was quoted 1300-1400 for head gaskets, but got a replacement engine that had the cambelt etc done 6000kms before i bought it and only cost me 2k all up in the car drive away. You gotta weigh up your options........

yea i never got the classic oil in water/water in oil symptoms usually associated with a blown head gasket, dont know how that works but my mechanic showed me the head gasket and it was definately munted. Where are you based? might be able to recomend someone to do it for a good price. I didnt bother doing mine, my mechanic was after a closed deck block for a rebuild he was doing so he took my old engine (for the block) and did me a good deal on a replacement (wasnt that great a deal in the end as it had a blown big end bearing 3 months later.....)