DRFVDR
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Posts posted by DRFVDR
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depending on the subaru model
I have a real 4wd subaru ( brumby)an the first "AWD" subaru as well -
the Manuals with the Viscous is 50/50
The Autos can vary 90/10 thru to 50/50
When you lock the centre diff/trasfercase in a "real" 4wd you get 50/50
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Should be alright with a good clean, does make me think it has either been drowned(Flooded import) or it has sat for a very long time with very little fuel in it
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went from these
15" 205,65
to
16" 215,60
all for $100 incuding 4 snow and ice tires
Oh and nope not a Subaru
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^^^ Wait until you pay 600cc+ registration! With the new ACC levies the bike is 4x any of our cars
07 S-GT - missus
08 Triumph Street Triple - my daily (also for sale)
03 BP5 GTB - MTB hauler/tow car/my fun car
06 Estima - 200kw 4WD family hauler
DRFVDR: I'm assuming you are the same DRFVDR from TEOC?
That would be I
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I put 4 as they are the ones I have at home
'86 Leone RX2 Coupe
'86 Brumby
'05 Hilux
'00 Estima
but as I have a bus company it could be in excess of 30
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clamp the rubber pipes you can get special clamps to do it
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It is fine, Why did you split it from the bottom arm ? the usual way of separating the Hub from the arm is to pop the ball joint out of the hub
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Alternator going/gone
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So in 35,000 km you never rotated your tires ?
most manufactures require rotating every 10,000 km
will wear the whole set evenly, which is perfect
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can you pop the bottom of the tank down through the fuel pump port ?
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BNT for me, I get a pretty large discount
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Just be careful, Your missus could be at fault, the old "cant stop within 1/2 visible clear distance " rule.
Sounds to me like she isn't but sometimes things dont make sense when insurance companies are involved
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Lol wouldent go that far. A quick google search revealed header tuning can help scavenge exhaust outa the cyclinders. Somthing about sound waves even lol. Well my current exhaust is 3" downpipe to 2.4" exhaust and it sound pretty nice with an effective muffler. But listening to those 90's rally cars man that sound is king
It was the '90's
enuff said my 84 Leone RX sounded mint in the '90's as well BUT would never pass noise now it only had 2 straight thru Coby's in it, set car alarms of all the time. -
In a heart beat
I would love even a R34 -
Look at the torque range you need, that will tell you far more than the drive size.
Also try and get one from a reputable brand, like Facom, Norbar or Snap-on if you've won lotto this week.
But cereally a good torque wrench will last you for ever if you take care of it.
Having said that, not everyone can spring $600+ for one tool, so a Powerbuilt or a Teng one should do the trick.
I would not place Teng as low as powerbuilt
they do make very very good tools, I would not go to small,make the range you want in the middle of the tool, not at the top end as you may find it can be very hard turn it if you dont have the leverage.
I have got 3
a 3/8th a 1/2 and a 3/4, to cover the ranges I need. -
looks like these are low clearance, 6mm. Expensive here in NZ at ~$280 for something I might never use.
Looks like i'll use YouShop and get them from Amazon ~$160
$280 seems a reasonable price I pay upto $1000 for a set for my buses
these look not bad I may see if they do some in the size I need for my new bus
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Yes but I was commenting on Bumpty's comparison to fitting different sized tyres; seemingly saying that mismatch front to back is ok. Presumably you have tyres on your car at all times whilst driving and thus this scenario would have a significant effect; snow chains notwithstanding ;]
Oops didnt get that bit, nope miss matched tires in anything that is AWD ( especially if it runs a centre viscous) is a no no and will cause damage
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Plus the fact that inherently you're driving it in a low-traction situation so there won't be a lot of force on the diff.
I have a jap import arriving this week with good condition snow tyres on all 4, I've done a bit of research and I'm going to keep them on for the ski season and see how they go.
Apparently "warm" (greater than 7 degrees celcius) performance difference is less than 10% and that's comparing quality tyres, whereas sub-7-degrees the snow tyre hugely outperforms the regular one.
In fact, given how much the car will get driven at less than 7 degrees I may even get a second set of rims for summer, will get me more mileage from the summer tyres by not putting the long highway k's on them and I figure I'll be able to buy loads of really good winter tyres very cheap from importers removing them on arrival.
Boon, what will kill your snow tires is the run from Wellington to here,
best bet is to have 2 sets of rims and tires and leave your snow tires here
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Remember folks, snow tyres don't help on ice unless they're studded, and studded tyres are apparently illegal in NZ.
Most Ski roads will have ice, some of them for long stretches, where chains are a necessity.
Also those snow socks are useless on ice as well.
I have seen rubber "chains" with metal studs in them, specifically for low clearance vehicles, might pay to look into them.
Once again wrong, snow tires do help alot on ice, when your wheels slip on snow or ice,they are not actually slipping on the "ice" as such but a very small layer of water between the tire and the surface, Proper snow tires have a a/ a soft compound, and b/ a heap of little grooves that suck the water layer away thus allowing you to drive on the original surface.
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Any which way you fit them, significantly different diameter tyres will increase strain on one of your differentials. Front to back mismatch is just choosing to strain the centre diff.
For the time and speeds that are involved with chains fitted ( usually less than 1/2 hour actually driving and maybe if you are unlucky 15km) then any "damage" to the centre diff will be inconsequential
I have a real 4wd subaru ( brumby)an the first "AWD" subaru as well
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Awd percentage
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
The Brumby does not have a centre diff it is either FWD or 4WD