subieboy
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Posts posted by subieboy
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Yeah that's what i was thinking. Might be an idea for before i leave for oz (parents are looking after the car, they don't like the 3" :
).Now i thought modifcations over there were hard to do cause the rules are so strict... Is that only with some things is it? or is that just BS?
Nah its not that hard depending on the state your in. Qld and Vic have some of the worst wrecks on the road (see them daily). The rules are tough but they dont do anything as there are so many loopholes its not funny...
All the cops here are worried about is the occasional speeder over school holidays, and some drinkies-drivers over a random period (christmas comes to mind, maybe easter every now and then...)
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3. Using the twin turbo to full use eg: Decreasing the VOD and what revs should the first turbo go and second turbo?
b]remove twin turbo and fit single...or zerosports controller. First should run from 2200 to about 4500, secondary from 4500 onwards[/b]
And just one more thing anyone know if I shave my locks of the exterior of the car WILL I STILL GET A WOF? That is after the alarm is installed with a keyless entry function.
im pretty sure you need some kind of switch on the outside to open the doors...not totally sure though
Any help will be really appreciated
From the diagrams I have for that are relevent to TT models:
VOD: happens from about 4250 to 5250RPM
Single turbo (Primary) to Twin turbo (Secondary) Switch over:
Primary to Secondary happens about 5250RPM
Secondary to Primary happens about 4250RPM
Locks:
If you want to shave them just buy some "door poppers", they are a small switch that you can install anywhere, and they are (well some anyway) a mechanical mechanism(as required by WOF Schedule for safety reasons - it cannot rely on electricity)
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Lucky catch there.
Did you use a newer alloy version one?
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yup technicality illegal to have a muffler you can adjust without tools (ie bolt in silencer)
OEM like that - they cannot touch it
What this man has said^^^^^^^^^^^^^
As an aside Reub, In aus they can get away with all sorts of sh!te
For instance:
1 x 4WD1 x set of super duper wide and high muddies
1 x tin shears/metal shears/etc
cut like a mad monkey
1 x roll of rubber window edge flashing ($4/meter from M10)
make rubber edge flashing into flares for 4WD - Cheap
Perfectly legal in all states ans territories - PRICELESS...
(Check out 4WD action forums for complete rundown)
So that xforce muffler you want is legal here - sadly its pretty gray area in NZ tho - you could always buy it and just hook it up
Legal disclaimer I aint telling you how to do it, merely how I would do it:
instead of using the xforce's switch and stuff you just hook your cable up to the muffler's mechanism
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I already asked, got a no
I had no idea they were that rare. Makes me want one even more now...
Rocking horse sh!t has nothing on these puppies Reub...
Tardme FTW:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Other/auction-210332250.htm
Oh well ebay has Jack...
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oh wow never actually seen one - dont get rid of the butterfly if you remove - rare as rocking horse shit
My motor still activates but everything else long gone, keep it unless muffler rusts out is my advice, remove centre cat or the cat on the down pipe for some extra oomph
+1 I hunted for one for ages and finally gave up...
GT Boy you selling? ;D
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Hi guys,
just wondering if there is any difference between the jdm v9 sti and nz new v9 sti,
i know both are 2.0 instead of the 2.5, how about other stuff like the turbo etc...
how about the specification?
also what to look for when buying one
cheers
The JDM has everything including the kitchen sink (usually) and the NZ new has everything minus everything excluding the kitchen sink
In all reality specs would differ depending on what boxes were ticked at the dealer in Japland
JDM version STI (I think) 2L and NZDM is 2.5L (same spec as Aus version)???
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There's a couple of good spots. The most common is under the powersteering pump and is where the factory pressure sensor is located. Just need to use some t-pieces (1/8th NPT) to hook them up.
+1 on this place, Mine is hooked up from there. Doesn't interfere with the factory sensor in anyway either
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Sheesh I saw this thread and my mind instantly headed ***somewhere else***
Anyways my muffler was tested and got in below stock (back in 2005 now and cant remember what Db level now)
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Would it be better to join the new cable closer to the fuel pump? I.e straight off the plug on the top of the fuel tank in the boot?
I suppose its only saving a few feet of cable and its not going through any extra connections.
My thoughts too in this is similar:
I vaguely remember reading somewhere that joining two wires of differing diameter is a bad idea, the reason being that it creates a blockage or voltage drop accross the join (therefore heat, etc) and can in worst case result in a fire... I do stand corrected if this is not the case tho...
But wouldn't it better to get a new connecter (on both ends) for the new wire and replace it at the plastic bit itself? Just a thought tho
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My GTB still has the factory exhaust with the Butterfly valve.
Did you not notice how much louder the car is when you hit the secondary turbo, I think this is when it opens.
Clap clap
It is there purely for noise reasons...
As an aside: If you leave the mechanism in and fit a after market muffler with this or similar system in that is operated by the ECU (In the exact same manner as stock) then you should be OK legally NOTE: SHOULD BE OK
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Its going!!!!! dammit wait till ichi-ban reads this im gunna get the muppet of the week award for the 2nd week in a row(got it last week for my "I cant bleed my new four pots" post- turns out I had them on upside down) ...... if you read back through this thread you will read the part where I say the fuel line blew off, so I just limped home and fixed it. thats when the problems began, well after much staring into the engine bay and many bad words uttered from my mouth I had an idea...... "since the fuel light was on even before that hose blew off in the 1st place, maybe, just maybe, during the slow limp home shes pumped all her gas out onto the ground/engine/etc". moral of the story is- no mater how hard you try you aint gunna get an engine going if its got no gas in it.........
Heheheh
Hahahahaha
Hohohohohoho
heeheeheeheeheehee
Muppet of the month award then???
Waits to eat me own words once I actually do this... ;D
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Been thinking about re-posting this...
Stuff needed for this el cheapo arse job:
a) Factory windscreen washer bottle - $5 from wreckers - if your lucky you get a working pump(s) with it,
b) plastic pipe (from work as freebie - but you can get it for nix from Bunnings/M10/boat shops/etc (about $7 for a meter) - make sure it is the same size as the neck of the washer bottle. More on that later. A smaller plastic hose for use as a breather pipe
c) Fibre glass (chopped strand mat and associated stuff, like the roller thats about $9 at bunnings,
d) garden nozzles - you can get it for nix from Bunnings/M10
e) some vacuum pipe (or other pipe) ou can get it for nix from Bunnings/M10/Supercrap/Ri(off)co/etc
f) some aluminium for a bracket - could use anything metal really
g) Free time, place to make a mess
Righty oh:
The sprayer bottle - neck chopped off - make sure the pipe fits inside the neck before you buy.
Cut the top off the washer bottle (the bit just below the lip - try to keep as much of the neck as possible attached to the bottle):
As you can see I used a windscreen sealer to seal it before fibre glassing
First layer of Fibre glass - applied after the sealant dried:
Filler hose attached - drill a hole where it will bleed off most of the air, I used masking tape to hold it in place.
Fibre glass in place (1st layer):
This is why you cut off the lip, also note the position where the bleeder hose returns:
TADA looks factory when you clean it up, bog/smooth and paint it... 
Let rip with as many layers of fibre glass as you need (I used three) - Let dry:
Have fun sanding the bugger down - trim the excess mat before it is too dry and get rid off those extra bits that are poking everywhere...
This is what my hanger looks like:
I made another one for below the bottle - almost hammock like - cant find a photo.
There you go all done and hiding in the front drivers side wheel well - you can see the yellow factory lid by the (now defunct) poddie:
There you go - Hope it inspires you to do some more stuff on the cheap
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Imagine the suck and epic fail if they decide to climb to one side of the fence. Where you're not at. :-\
It depends on: are you allowed to watch or not
;D ;D ;D ;D
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that resrictor help eliminate vacuum pulses from the intake runner and make the readings stable
You can try without the resrtictor but will prob have a gauge with an unstable needle reading
Interesting, Mine comes straight of the manifold, but I cant say that I have ever noticed my boost gauge being "unstable" tho...
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Dont drink drive near me I'll kick your arse and feed it to you ;D
/quote]
nice
Bloomin oath - scraped far too many drunken idiots and their victims (especially the victims) off the road because some idiot thought that he/she "will be rite mate" only had a couple (they had more than 10 - BUT thats a couple you know)...
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Name: TTTB, tripple Tee Bee, Roach master, westie (twas the surname that did it
Age: 30 something
Location: Let me go find a map - usually next to the wife (But Brisbane at the moment, CHCH in the near future)
Occupation: Account manager
Subarus Owned/use to own:Own now 99 GTB BH5 - modded up the wazoo, more mods to come
Use to own: 94 Outback
Length of Subaru Ownership: uhm 5 years
Other interesting facts: Ex Volly firefighter(1 year) - retired due to irreparable damage to my knees, Ex Volly Ambo (two locations) Ex military RNZAMC, Member of RSA (Returned Serviceman sub-distinction), father to be,
Dont drink drive near me I'll kick your arse and feed it to you ;D
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Phht blooming Wellingtonians - getting uppity like their Dorkland cousies
South Island FTW all ya wellie-bellies <----- Cool I made up a word... Combo of Yellow belied and Welli(e)ngton ;D
Ps case you didnot get that I am takin the piss
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I wouldnt dare compare that to Opticals ;D
$400 will buy you a cheap parallel thrills, $$$$$ + prova will get you 245kw
Yar but then us mere mortals don't have that kinda coin (like Prova itself) to throw at show case models as part of their marketing budget...
If you have the coin, doing a single conversion would be bettererer...
I drove a Parallel conversion a while ago, did not like personally... (but then again they kept the factory turbo's)
).
snip
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