sooby
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Posts posted by sooby
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Ok, so I have the second hand reservoir assembly complete with front & rear pumps.
Looking at it as a complete unit I'm guessing it is going to simpler if I unscrew existing reservoir assembly and unclip pumps all in one & straight swap 'new' unit in. I'm thinking trying to pull out the defective pump only might be a pain with reservoir full and risk munting a seal.
Any tips or hidden fish hooks to look out for?
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cheers firenza!
Might have sourced a secondhand one so heres hoping that works out - WOF due in a coupla months
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Howdy folks,
Noticed recently that the windscreen washer in our BG Legacy wasn't squirting fluid when asked to.
I've checked the reservoir and its full and no obvious blockages. Then checked the fluid line going from firewall to bonnet by blowing compressed air thru and can confirm those lines are working.
Can't hear the washer going, so am guessing the washer is knackered - seems about right for a 20 years old car!
Is there any other tricks to determine the pump is at fault? Also what can I expect to pay for a replacement pump?
Cheers
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cheers guys for the help, think its all sorted - light now stays off like its meant to.
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hey, reckon I did - think that was the yellow cable that had a green sliding switch on it. Might give it another look tho - cheers!
Should I disconnect the battery when unplugging airbag wires?
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howdy folks,
I was removing our 2007 Legacy seat and after putting it back in, the airbag light on dash cluster stays on.
I googled and found these options:
1. Go to dealer to clear code, is this something any mechanic can do - no Subaru dealer here.
2. Insert wires into plug under dash, count & record error code, insert other wire into plug to clear codes.
I'm not keen to do #2 jamming in wires without knowing exactly what I'm doing (youtube clip I found was of a USDM WRX), but also not sure #1 is an option.
Would the airbag warning light mean that airbag wouldn't work in an accident?
Appreciate any ideas!
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cheers andymac - will swap battery & see how it goes
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hey folks,
Have a 2007 BP Legacy where the key fob only seems to work every other day - is this a sign of the keyfob battery failing, or the fob itself dying?
Weird thing is it seems to work perfectly one moment, then other times no matter how hard/soft, long or short the button is pressed = nothing!
Any ideas much appreciated
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cheers scoobydoo!
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Hey guys,
Noticed what looks like white corrosion(?) on radiator overflow hose, is this going to be a problem?
Here is a photo: https://trademe.tmcdn.co.nz/photoserver/full/443208565.jpg
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ADIKT - that's a wicked write up, thanks!
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thanks guys,
Quite keen on the USB socket, as we use USB sticks instead of cd's. Adikt, our Legacy lacks the AUX 3.5mm socket in the centre console so I'm guessing this just made things a bitter harder than your install? If I understood you correctly, you already had a AUX socket in centre console and it all worked after installing that wiring harness you linked to?
Cheers Colourfyre, appreciate the advive on the Grom unit. As we don't need idevice integration I'm still leaning towards this one on trade me: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1006158617 mainly because it has a USB socket + being cheaper is a bonus.
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cool, thanks Colorfyre!
How long is the cord on the Grom unit, would it reach to the centre console?
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cheers Andy_Mac! Seems my google skills are lacking...
Hi,I have just installed the Grom unit (see link Andy_Mac pointed you to), it works well. What type of headunit have you got? When I was looking for a solution the thing seems to be the Grom units are for the Kenwood stereos (the normal one , and there are heaps of models) and then there are 'Anycar' units for the Macintosh stereos.
Cheers
ah, thanks for that info. Not sure which head unit I have, here is a photo of it: https://trademe.tmcdn.co.nz/photoserver/full/436876130.jpg are you able to tell from that?
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Howdy folks,
Collecting our new 2007 BP legacy in a couple of days and noticed stock headunit lacks USB functionality. I remember a thread here mentioned there was an aftermarket gizmo you could wire into the headunit to enable connecting of a USB card with mp3's on it, but can't find it again frustratingly!
I did come across the auction below on trade me, seems to fit the bill and add bluetooth:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/accessories/auction-1006158617.htm
Are there any other options out there for adding a USB port without replacing the factory $1,000 fascia + headunit combo?
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Cheers percy, appreciate it. Joker, if you do come across one and want some cash for it I'm keen!
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Hi guys,
Our BG5 Legacy front passenger window switch has stopped working, and I;m trying to track down a replacement. Does anyone know if the switch itself is the same unit as rear passenger & drivers side too, or unique to front passenger?
What would you guys expect to pay for this via wreckers?
cheers
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thanks for the help fellas, any idea how to narrow it down further?
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Are you running a Link?
Excess startup enrichment, floods it somewhat, try cranking it with a bit of throttle.
Cheers - definitely no Link here, would have thought its not running rich as it doesn't have the telltale black stains above the exhaust pipe.
Did try cranking with full throttle and no luck
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12.2v is a bit low, is that after a bit of cranking? What is it showing while your cranking? Could be a weak battery/tired alternator/loose belt/loose, dirty or corroded terminals/earths etc.
Do a diagnostics check to see if it's given any codes at all. Could be something weird like a crank sensor CEL when it's not starting.
If everything seems ok and it's got fuel and spark, then check out the coolant temp sensor. Might not be telling the ECU that the engine has warmed up a bit when your trying to restart it, so it's over fuelling.
Thanks again Rosssub.
12.2v was at rest, will try reading when cranking. Will mention your thoughts to mechanic too.
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howdy folks,
My JDM 1996 GC8 wrx is failing to restart after short trips, example: left work after eight hours parked and car starts fine, travel maybe 1 minute down the road to servo to fuel up, go to restart and engine cranks but won't start!
This happened previously in February this year too, when I had to move the car out of the way (literately meters, and again it wouldn't restart. Got a jumpstart and that seemed to sort it.
Battery is less than a year old. Tested with a volt meter today and voltage was about 12.2volts so I charged it for about 10mins until it reached 12.6 volts.
Car is due for a service soon anyway - where should mechanic be looking for problem?
Any help much appreciated!
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cheers for reply Rosssub,
Coolant was definitely replaced when radiator was flushed at time of blockage (5 years ago), not sure if possibly included as part of normal engine service too? which we do at least 9 monthly / yearly. Coolant looks in good condition, bright green. Radiator is what you'd expect of a 19 year old car with the odd fin bent, but no major damage I could see in quick inspection.
So do you think this airpocket is serious, I found a post here where connecting a 10mm/12mm pipe between heater inflow & outflow pipes would remedy, think that's worth a shot? Do you think its time for radiator to be replaced?
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Hi guys,
We've got a 2 litre bog standard grocery-getter 1996 Subaru Legacy that has been fluctuating with its temperature readings and I'm a little concerned.
We've owned the car about 9 years and temperature always stays at the same mark on gauge. We did have an isolated event about 5 years ago where temp spiked & car was immediately stopped & mechanic cleared a blockage, since then been perfect... until recently when on a long trip I noticed the temperature needle rise from its usual position to the green line in the image below:
https://trademe.tmcdn.co.nz/photoserver/full/386967299.jpg (Apologies for the crappy image!)
This seemed to only happen under load, like going up a long uphill and only seemed to last duration of load, then return to normal. At no point did it go higher than green mark.
Took to mechanic for service & radiator flush asap, where normal engine service was carried out & radiator pressure tested and found to be fine. Mechanic recommended replacing radiator as more cost effective than reconditioning the existing 19yr old radiator.
I thought that sounds fair enough and was prepared to replace radiator, then today we did another long trip and weirdly the temperature remained in exactly the regular spot the entire trip! Now I'm not so sure about replacing the radiator, what do you guys reckon?
Other relevant info:
- car doesn't drop any fluids.
- no steam out of exhaust (fingers crossed no head gasket!)
- car does have air in heater core (common BG legacy issue) that makes rushing water sound (altho weirdly this seemed to have reduced today!)
- noticed over the last year after a long run there is a loud thud sound coming from engine bay soon after turning car off, which reduces in volume & frequency as car cools. Sound is loud enough to hear in cabin & sounds like someone smacking a hunk of metal onto rubber, almost like a deep drum sound. Strange part again is this has stopped today - so weird!
I did notice a lot of large leaves blowing around road on the trip where temperature gauge fluctuated, is it possible a few leaves stuck to radiator & reduced efficiency, then fell off later at slow speeds?
I'm stumped - any ideas?
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Help with BG Legacy windscreen washer problem
in Legacy & Outback
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cool - thanks Firenza! How do you test the pumps on 12v yourself?