turborunner

are there signs for a blocked heater core as my heater gets hot in cabin

my radiator doesnt have a cap it just connects to the top tank with small hoses and the top big hose goes to top of motor

when does the fans turnon ive ran car for about 20min and still hasnt seen fans turnon should i have the top tank cap off untill fans kickin and then put cap on once fluid is at neck of filler hole. I left it off untill 5min after reaching temp and topped tank and put cap on and kept car running for another 10min while still keeping eye on overflow tank making sure its still on full mark which it hasnt moved. i got about 6ltr out from draining and probably spilt abit more when removed the thermo and i got close to 7ltr in fulling it backup doing a 50/50mix of castrol antifreeze and antiboiling concentrate and deminiralised water. Still have no found a bleeder does my v2 sti wrx have a bleeder

also ive never notice my electric fans turn on.

Also with your coolant flowing around shouldnt the temperature be even all the way around since its circulating. I would of thought if the bottom hose is cold would mean there is a blockage as its not circulating to get warmed up? whats the bleeder i just full it up in the top tank and keeped adding when the air keeps escaping then started engine with cap off and added coolant every time it drops and then reved then engine to get abit more air out. also car is stationary at moment.

Just removed my thermostat and poured boiling hot water on it and it opened also talked to winger and they said they would of put a new thermo on it when they did my shortblock so I didnt replace it and put it back on. put new antifreeze back in. But is still only heating the top hose and not the bottom hose. could the heater core be blocked which i dont really want to pull my dash apart and still would like heater to work

Hi got home my factory temp gauge is running normal halfway and i opened my bonnet a could smell my engine being hot could be normal. but put my hand on top radiator hose which was hot but the bottom hose was cold or outside temp not hot like top hose is that normal or could i have a problem? thanks for your help. I have a v2 wrx sti wagon

Just done my diff got the filler plug undone but could not undo drain plug my 1/2" powerbar with extension bar and light taps with rubber mellit and still no budge also started to eat away at the bolt as its on way too tight. so just syphoned the old oil out got about 800mls and syphoned the new motul 90pa diff oil in. feels different. noticing more push from the rearend when boosting. might get a garage next time to undo the drain bolt so it can be drained properly.

too wet and still waiting for my oil to arrive dont have a garage to do it in so have to do it on a fine day but yeah probably just use my 1/2" powerbar

since you dont use the 13mm tool you want to sell it?

Hi, Here is a socket tool that you can use your powerbar or ratchet with. http://ultimatetoolco.com/drainplugs.aspx trying to find that tool or one like it made by any company and sold in New Zealand

just dont want to ruin my good 1/2 drive or the plug because of rounding by not fitting snuggly enough and might be tight being the first time its being done to my car?

Hi, Looking for the 13mm square tool to undo the diff filler and drain bung on the Subaru differentials anybody know where to buy it in New Zealand? P.s Tried repco, toolshed, subaru, autotrail, bnt, hand tools Thanks TurboRunner

Hi Driftrex, Thanks for replying, I would like to get a business to do the job,tryed the basic to fix Spotlights dont work checked the bulbs, switch and relays beside fuses under dash all seem working so i guess theres a break in the wires somewhere. also my doors dont show the light on dash to say its open and doesnt set alarm off, not sure if there anything else that is not working but thats what i have found so far?

Anybody know a good Auto Electrician that knows his way around a wrx in Hamilton?

yep can hear the click from the relay when switch the on/off

My car came fitted with spotlights from Japan 3 years ago and have worked untill now. I found 3 relays beside drivers fuse box and have swapped them around as they are all the same and still no go checked the bulbs still good, and my mechanic checked the switch and bulbs and said they appear to be working but no spotlights. puzzled dont really want to spend more money for an auto electrician and still might not get them working. do you know where the relays are I suspect one of the 3 relays is spotlights and have an idea there might be another one in another location when spotlight switch is on the parklights are on but no spotlights if thats any help Thanks for your help TurboRunner

Hi, I have a small problem My spotlights dont work my fuse and bulbs are fine but cant find relay to check relay. also i removed the drivers kick panel on the righthand side and found a rectangle plug with 4 or 5 wires that are not hooked up not sure where it would plug into tho. when spotlights stopped working i had my acc fixed due to wiring? had a garage try a fix them in an hour and he couldnt find the relays? but said switch and foglamps are good. Any help will be greatly appreciated Thanks TurboRunner

isnt it bad too overtighten? so what will the right tightness be when you tighten the belts up?

Hi, Heres an interesting site=http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/index.htm Theres also a few programs out there for designing sub boxs round or square or rectangle to triangle. 1 called BassBox Pro which i think you have to pay for there might be a trial version not sure of limitations tho. 2nd which is freeware but could only do sqaure and rectangle last time i used it might be able to do more now since i made my sub probably 7 years ago with is called 'Winisd sub box designer' http://www.linearteam.dk/

try alcohol once more but tell it to ignore errors as ussually copyprotection can be read as errors and fail the burn also make sure the gps disc is not duallayered ie bigger than 4.5gb as you will have to use a duallayered dvdr disc if its bigger

the turbo skylines have there intercooler mounted in front of the left front wheel so it will probably be fine if your running a fmic as the scoop is mainly for the tmic. I've heard a few skyline owners lift up the back of their bonnets using spaces on the hinges for heat dissapation like Boostcut has mentioned. thought of just removing the scoop and get a sheet of steel welded over the scoop hole and leave those vents in the bonnet?