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nzkaosnz

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Posts posted by nzkaosnz

    Legacy eg33 build questions

    in Legacy & Outback

    Posted

    hahaha

    DRFVDR - Sounds like we shoulda worked together.

    I started with an Incomplete EG33, and put it together with a Megasquirt ecu.

    Got it running - but it wouldnt rev nicely - spent ages tearing hair out - with no idea where issues were coming from...

    Megasquirt is homebuilt - so possible dodgy point

    Own wiring

    Engine was unknown origin.

    If i had started with a complete - known going engine/ecu setup (e.g. whole SVX) - would have been sweet.

    radiator - a "rotary radiator" works well... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=355420571

    Fits between headlights, under radiator support panel.

    Exhaust - never had issues with crossmember?

    I did start with a NA chassis - so already had cutouts for headers.

    Powersteering pump was a bit funky- had to trim bonnet to clear.

    Also got stuck on the "making it turbo" bit - the twin throttle bodies make it a lil tricky.

    And on top of this - another project popped up (v3 sti - current hack) - so this went on backburner.

    Legacy eg33 build questions

    in Legacy & Outback

    Posted

     Green Machine said:

    Cheers for the info flat4, will check out those links once I get home from work.

    And thanks joker but Id rather build my own as if im wise it will be cheaper for me as that person will more than likely be adding labour etc to the cost of there car. And if I build it then I know how to fix it if anything goes wrong. Plus I actually enjoy slaving away on a car knowing that the out come is not an common car.

    Keep the info coming guys.

    thats me.

    to give you an idea, im about to scrap the body/motor minus a few parts (seats/alarm/speakers), and would be getting $300 for it. So if you are interested in picking up a CHEAP part project. with a lot of the thinking done, flick us a text. o21 742 7o5

    Also reg is still live on the car.

    Hell, if your in auckland near syliva park, and want to pop past and have a look, you can have a squizz at what ive got here/what obstacles you need to get past.

    Youd probably still want to pick up a whole Svx to scrap for the motor/ecu to get going...

    More ACC levies on rego

    in General Vehicle Discussion

    Posted

    there is a reason and place for ACC.

    New Zealand has the ACC to pay for all accidental injuries, be it through work, sport, or other random stuff.

    This then limits liability claims/suing for neglect etc.

    If you injure yourself in america, your health insurance pays for you to get repaired.

    Your health insurance then sues the people that may have had something to do with your injury, claiming that it was "their neglect/fault" which directly caused your incident, therefore they have to pay - to claim their money back

    *enter courtroom/long drawn out case*

    The success of the suing came down to who had the biggest lawyers etc.

    Same with sports accidents, if we had that, then no-one would run a track day, as if a person spun a car into a wall, they would sue you for not taking all proper steps to stop that from happening, and would sue the track for putting a wall there.

    Same with ski-fields, same with kids rugby etc

    In NZ, you hurt yourself, ACC pays. ACC then gets OSH onto the accident site/workplace, and OSH make the call as to whether there was a safety hazard that was un-notified/protected etc, and then either require the company to make changes (a foward thinking approach) and/or fine the company for continued neglect - this frees up the courts, and limits the "woman sues mcdonalds for providing a hot coffee she spilt on herself" retardedness.

    Dont look at this as me being a tree-huggy acc fan, hell, i have 3 cars to try and register/insure, my 2003 Commodore auto v6 (nana spec -only winder windows in the back) due to the engine size is a "hi capacity-high performance car" that costs as much as a v5 sti type R coupe to fully insure

    As an engineer, we have a lot to do to appease the OSH regulations, to the point of retardedness. I.E. everything we design has to be "suicidial idiot proof". The OSH inspector has an "ISO finger" on a stick that he basically tries to get stuck.

    So yea, acc rises suck, but acc is a necessary evil.

    extractors/headers from redline performance

    in Engine Related

    Posted

     boostcut']

    [quote name='funkytown said:

    xforce do have slip joints which are prone to leaking which is a right PITA.

    /quote]

    that is because most retards dont put them together properly. a bit of maniseal in a syringe and feed it into the "female" slip joint. mine havent leaked yet and have had on for over a year

    hmmm.

    my problem is i keep breaking the little metal strap that holds them together...

    also, has anyone got pics of how they wrapped the bit around the bend on true equal length headers?

    Wrx front wheel drive

    in Gearbox and Drivetrain

    Posted

    Look for pics of any mid-mount ej20 - either fwd box, or 4wd box, welded centre, capped rear output.

    (e.g. Crowesport justy, some mad Imp at hampton downs etc)

    Measure up the available distance in front of the honda's front wheels and check against any subaru - biggest project stopper

    Yet another 250T headgasket!!

    in Engine Related

    Posted

    random qn...

    are you sure it hasnt got a bigass airlock?

    What i would do (and its cheap)....

    Buy a new radiator cap.

    Park the car on a steep a hill you can find near a tap - nose in the air

    Undo radiator cap (when cold)

    Start car, and leave idling with cap off.

    Keep going between the radiator cap and the dash, checking that water level ok, topping up as needed, and checking that dash temp ok. Old school method says to turn inside heater onto full heating, someone told me this not needed, but hell, do it anyway.

    continue this until it comes up to temperature (dash needle moves, and top hose feels the same temp as the warm hose (carefully reach down and grab bottom hose). if you do this periodically from cold, youll notice that the top hose warms up first, then eventually the bottom hose warms up (thermostat opens)

    once car up to temperature (fans also should kick in as an indication - AC should be off), pop the NEW radiator cap on, and check that your overflow bottle is up to full mark/over.

    Turn car off, and once cold, just check theres enough in the overflow bottle.

    Occasionally, the overheating can be due to airlocks/dodgy radiator caps, and a proper bleed can sort a lot of issues.

    Some haters may argue against this... but hell. Whats it going to cost you? And its solved my "damn my new headgasket has blown" issue once.

    Heater core... cant see how this could really affect it much? A bunch of people in race cars block the heater pipes off with no ill-effects.

    How to tell if its a limited edition?

    in General Vehicle Discussion

    Posted

    never pay any more for a limited model, they were never more peformance enhanced...

    The V-ltd stands for victory limited (same as the "555" edition, and the plain "Ltd" ones). To celebrate winning WRC that respective year, they released a limited run (usually 555) of 'rally car look alikes' (so hence the flat blue, the roof scoop, and some a blue interior - i.e just the looking stuff, not the functional stuff (e.g. DCCD), and a plate with the number, usually on the boot.

    They had the normal wrx/sti versions, but they are still just a wrx/sti, with a roof scoop. So normal sound deadening, normal running gear.

    Ra's on the other hand are the better ones.

    But hell. you get a roof scoop with an RA/VLtd. let me put that another way... ROOF SCOOP.

    You know that half the people here would give one of the precious twins up (probably the left one) for the roof scoop. :)

    Chinese made turbos

    in Engine Related

    Posted

    well. deja vu (i swear this has been done before), but im going against the grain here

    Background:

    We manufacture precision machines, ranging from $200k to $5mil, and use components from all across the world, (nz, aus, sweden, US, korea, vietnam, etc etc).

    Our parts are both electronic and mechanical parts, both shelf items, and fully customised items.

    Now from china, there are parts that you are lucky if they resemble what you asked for.

    However, there have been several cases (one part was $20 from the states, and the rubber split if you coughed while holding it. We then sourced an alternative from china, for $4, which i cant break with fingers alone). The US one lasted 100,000 cycles before ripping, the chinese one still was going strong 15mil cycles later.

    +1 for china.

    Plastic components - got a tool made in nz, $20k, had a second tool manufactured in china for about a 1/3 of that, better machine work done there than here in kiwiland.

    Its less the chinese capabilities, and more how well spec'd the drawing/instructions are that you give.

    version 8 engine for my version 1

    in Impreza, Crosstrek and XV

    Posted

     funkytown']

    [quote name='boostcut said:

    nz or usa? more than likely a nz new one tho.

    /quote]

    lol we probably being picking.. the mounts are all the same arent they.. and this V1 wud be the same essentially as Brads?

    Thus the requester should take a look in the Garage at nt_a_Foz's car... its a version 4 with v8 engine and running gear.

    running gear??? :P sorry brad

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